ericcs
Member
from memory, mine is close to that, and the only external accessories i have is, steel bash plate, towbar, light bar, and snorkel. all up, maybe 100kg?
How to Stretch life of an old D40
- Thread starter D40-4Life
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I don't have any UBP on yet. Got a set waiting to be put on.
I just remembered I have a tow pack thats not standard, so thats gotta weigh another 50kg perhaps. I suppose I can take off the hitch receiver and bow shakle on it and just use the pin. That might lose me 10kg.
Is it worthwhile to stick a garden hose in the chassis and clean it out?
You could. If the stuff is caked in there tight, the hose might not do much. Inspection cameras tell a better story. Although spraying water in one hole and having nothing come out another is a pretty obvious sign - worth trying!
Czechmate
Member
Dunno what the measured kerb weight of a 98 mazda bravo dualcab is, but when i drive that after the d40 it feels the size of a barina
Last time I was on a weighbridge I had about 120 litres of fuel on, and I'd just offloaded some metal at the local tip, and weighed in at 2.7 tonnes.
I have removed the winch from up front. I was only pulling out tree stumps with it anyway!
I have removed the winch from up front. I was only pulling out tree stumps with it anyway!
I think you mentioned somewhere that your suspension was still at stock height?
Have you uprated the springs?
We replaced the stock suspension (which had turned to shit, especially after the Ernest Giles Rd in central Aus) with ARB's offerings. Dakar dual-rate leafs on the back, HD springs up front. Nitrocharger Sports shocks on all corners.
I would seriously consider Shockwerx if they're still in business. Larger core, heavier shaft, extra reservoir = better durability. Another option is Tuff Dog, similar diameters to the OME shocks (so similar fluid quantity and heat dissipation rates).
Does anyone have Factory suspension height for a similar 2007 spanish STX or equivalent? One that they have measured themselves?
My 12 year old vehicle ride height with stock suspension is about an inch higher than what the RTA have on their website.
Mine must have sagged after all this time and I can see that the rear leaf is almost inverted.
I ask because there is a few figures floating around on this site, but nothing definitive.
My 12 year old vehicle ride height with stock suspension is about an inch higher than what the RTA have on their website.
Mine must have sagged after all this time and I can see that the rear leaf is almost inverted.
I ask because there is a few figures floating around on this site, but nothing definitive.
Czechmate
Member
D40 rear leafs look dead flat from stock
Even my newish extra heavy duty old man emu leafs looked flat from new
Rides like an absolute dream though
Even my newish extra heavy duty old man emu leafs looked flat from new
Rides like an absolute dream though
Hey everyone.
I got a new AT cooler and bypassed the radiator. Fitted it up front and only just barely got it to fit. Had to shave a few things behind the front grille.
I also got a engine watchdog. So far driving around long distances at around 20 degrees ambient, the Engine is reading around 90-93 degrees and the AT sits on around 60 or below. On cool days it sometimes only sits at 50 degrees or below.
Just want to confirm if these are the figures I should be expecting. Is the engine temp on the high side, esp after I fitted the AT cooler to the front of it?
The AT doesn't seem to shift any different then before. And I'm told that the AT temp is on the low side. Mechanics are saying it should be at 80c for optimal shifting, but if I'm gonna tour with it, were it is at is fine by me.
I got a new AT cooler and bypassed the radiator. Fitted it up front and only just barely got it to fit. Had to shave a few things behind the front grille.
I also got a engine watchdog. So far driving around long distances at around 20 degrees ambient, the Engine is reading around 90-93 degrees and the AT sits on around 60 or below. On cool days it sometimes only sits at 50 degrees or below.
Just want to confirm if these are the figures I should be expecting. Is the engine temp on the high side, esp after I fitted the AT cooler to the front of it?
The AT doesn't seem to shift any different then before. And I'm told that the AT temp is on the low side. Mechanics are saying it should be at 80c for optimal shifting, but if I'm gonna tour with it, were it is at is fine by me.
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Czechmate
Member
How are you getting your AT temps?
Did you fit an aftermarket sensor or did your vehicle have one standard?
Ive got an auto 07 STX and the torque app, and also a bosch OBD and ABS scanner and ive never seen AT temps on anything
Id really like to know though...
Did you fit an aftermarket sensor or did your vehicle have one standard?
Ive got an auto 07 STX and the torque app, and also a bosch OBD and ABS scanner and ive never seen AT temps on anything
Id really like to know though...
The AT temp comes from the engine watchdog and the sensor just bolts onto the AT case, so its the temperature of the case and not any fluids.
I should have done a check before and after of my new AT cooler and bypass, but I forgot.
Mind you I haven't taken it through a hot day or for anything longer than across one side of the city to the other.
I should have done a check before and after of my new AT cooler and bypass, but I forgot.
Mind you I haven't taken it through a hot day or for anything longer than across one side of the city to the other.
I don't get AT temps either. They're available if you have a proper diagnostic tool, but I don't know the codes I need to issue to obtain them from the ECU (which needs to query the TCM to get the codes anyway).
However, coolant temps are similar to mine. I usually have 93-94C on moderate driving, it'll get down to 90-91 going down a hill, I'll let it get to about 104C tops going up a hill (when towing, if I'm not towing it never goes much over 100 driving her hard).
However, coolant temps are similar to mine. I usually have 93-94C on moderate driving, it'll get down to 90-91 going down a hill, I'll let it get to about 104C tops going up a hill (when towing, if I'm not towing it never goes much over 100 driving her hard).
Guys. Just an update, I've installed my UBP and its looks great in stainless. An upgrade in radiator fan or injecting more silicone will be my next project. To ensure the engine doesn't work too hard.
BTW. What is the recommended injector replacement distance? I've heard anywhere from 150K to 180K. My D40 drives really nice currently, but its coming up to 140K. Is a new set of injectors something to consider or is it something I can wait until I see or hear some signs that its gonna need replacement?
Since I have a 07 spanish STX, I don't think there is a DPF, so dodgy injectors aren't likely to damage it right?
BTW. What is the recommended injector replacement distance? I've heard anywhere from 150K to 180K. My D40 drives really nice currently, but its coming up to 140K. Is a new set of injectors something to consider or is it something I can wait until I see or hear some signs that its gonna need replacement?
Since I have a 07 spanish STX, I don't think there is a DPF, so dodgy injectors aren't likely to damage it right?
I haven't done any more than run a couple of bottles of Liqui Moly Fuel System Treatment through my car's tank during its life and our last refuel was at 348,307km. Injectors have never been touched.
As for your car having a DPF - get underneath and see. It's under the front passenger footwell, it will have two silver pipes about 6mm across coming off the front and rear of the DPF that head up into the engine bay, and an electrical connection front and rear as well.
As for your car having a DPF - get underneath and see. It's under the front passenger footwell, it will have two silver pipes about 6mm across coming off the front and rear of the DPF that head up into the engine bay, and an electrical connection front and rear as well.
Old.Tony, how long are you going to keep your D40 for? I've heard that parts would only be kept for the D40 for another 10 years after end of life which means somewhere around 2025 right? Would getting new injectors be difficult or easy then?
Would keeping a set in case you need to replace em' be a good idea?
Would keeping a set in case you need to replace em' be a good idea?
We're at the 350,000km mark now, the injectors have still never been removed. I would imagine that even after end-of-life, parts will be available from sources other than Nissan. I saw a full set of injectors on eBay for about $1500 that supposedly came from the manufacturer.
If my car ever dies from an injector failure after 2025 .. well, she'd be 16 years old and I'd have put a few more km on her by then, but I'd just go shopping for the parts. I'm not about to invest large sums in parts I might not need - because knowing my luck, if the pump/injectors were known to be flaky (they aren't, this is hypothetical) and I bought a spare of each, it'd be the door handles that break in my car.
If my car ever dies from an injector failure after 2025 .. well, she'd be 16 years old and I'd have put a few more km on her by then, but I'd just go shopping for the parts. I'm not about to invest large sums in parts I might not need - because knowing my luck, if the pump/injectors were known to be flaky (they aren't, this is hypothetical) and I bought a spare of each, it'd be the door handles that break in my car.
thats a good one Tony. Never saw it that way.
I just can't see myself buying another ute atm because I still like my D40 and don't see one out there that I like and would love to keep it for the Kms you have driven. 350K would be great.
If I had to get another ute, the Ranger Raptor would be on the list, but then, it wouldn't be able to tour which I will still keep the D40 for.
My next mod is a set of rock sliders. Been eyeing a set from SCF or McArmor4x4. The SCF one looks heavy duty, whereas the McArmor ones is called a side step but its made from 3mm thick tubes and looks quite decent. Surprised they call it a side step and not a rock slider, but looks slightly less heavy duty than the SCF ones. Both I think are Aussie made. I prefer aussie made where possible.
scfabworks.com.au/products/nissan-std-d40/
mcarmor4x4.com.au/product/mcarmor-side-steps/
Would anyone like to chime in with an opinion on these?
Is a solidly constructed rock slider the difference between a damaged sill and one not damaged? I heard ARB ones aren't so good.
I just can't see myself buying another ute atm because I still like my D40 and don't see one out there that I like and would love to keep it for the Kms you have driven. 350K would be great.
If I had to get another ute, the Ranger Raptor would be on the list, but then, it wouldn't be able to tour which I will still keep the D40 for.
My next mod is a set of rock sliders. Been eyeing a set from SCF or McArmor4x4. The SCF one looks heavy duty, whereas the McArmor ones is called a side step but its made from 3mm thick tubes and looks quite decent. Surprised they call it a side step and not a rock slider, but looks slightly less heavy duty than the SCF ones. Both I think are Aussie made. I prefer aussie made where possible.
scfabworks.com.au/products/nissan-std-d40/
mcarmor4x4.com.au/product/mcarmor-side-steps/
Would anyone like to chime in with an opinion on these?
Is a solidly constructed rock slider the difference between a damaged sill and one not damaged? I heard ARB ones aren't so good.
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