How to Stretch life of an old D40

[gethro]

Old.Tony, how long are you going to keep your D40 for? I've heard that parts would only be kept for the D40 for another 10 years after end of life which means somewhere around 2025 right? Would getting new injectors be difficult or easy then?
Would keeping a set in case you need to replace em' be a good idea?

We might not even have that long. I needed a seatbelt pretensioner to pass a Roadworthy when I bought by R51 Pathfinder unregistered.
I bought the very last one in all of Australia, and they are no longer made or imported.

As replacing SRS equipment with second hand units is illegal, and as new units are unavailable, once you have any kind of accident over the speed the pretensioner kicks in (20kmh?) you vehicle will be a write off.

 

[D40-4Life]

Are these SRS items still available? Could an non oem make em?

I suppose we all better get salvage rights on our insurance.

 

[maddon]

just for the general information of the d40 folks ; i did a head at 391,000 on my d22 yd25 a few weeks ago ; at the time when it was in for repairs there was three d40s with head issues , one pathfinder same and one d22 all with head issues amongest an assortment of other vehicles , very common is this problem with the d40s apparently and more so the d40 over the d22 all with the same 25 , and unknown to me was the ford ranger that this garage repairs 5 heads a week being both the 2.2 and 3.2 so i wouldnt hurry to replace anything with a ranger - whilst i got the head repaired i got the entire motor rebuilt including a replacement oil pump which was working but weak,, when i got the timing chain replaced with a double row imported from the states i also got the injectors replaced as well but that was an overkill , it was just that i needed a fresh vehicle for a capeyork trip and a few remote trips done since ; this vehicle has an extra six leaves in the back , heavier spec back diff , lockers front , blah blah

 

[D40-4Life]

i did a head at 391,000 on my d22 yd25

You mean you blew a head gasket? did you get a recon from YD25.com.au?

it was just that i needed a fresh vehicle for a capeyork trip and a few remote trips done since

How much did you spend?

this vehicle has an extra six leaves in the back , heavier spec back diff , lockers front , blah blah

Obviously theres been a bit invested in it. I'm in the same position. I don't want to invest anymore time and money doing up a new vehicle. The money is one thing but the time is a whole other thing.

I'd only keep a ranger raptor as a dream daily driver.

 

[maddon]

You mean you blew a head gasket? did you get a recon from YD25.com.au?

How much did you spend?

Obviously theres been a bit invested in it. I'm in the same position. I don't want to invest anymore time and money doing up a new vehicle. The money is one thing but the time is a whole other thing.

I'd only keep a ranger raptor as a dream daily driver.

cracked the head/ destroyed it / just under 5 k / same same - lots of time and money but has created some great memories that i will remember to the grave - my wife still talks about the time we broke off all the wheel studs except one near weipa on a cape york episode and i still talk about the time we were bogged up to the door handles and had to climb out through the window in the barringtons.. blah blah

 

[D40-4Life]

Being in lockdown, I haven't had a chance to drive the Navara. or had a chance to take it for a long drive. Is there a recommended weekly run in for diesel engines? I know its good to run the engine every week on a petrol car, just wondering if it applies to diesel engines particularly with DPFs.

Has anyone disconnected their battery lately due to not using their vehicles much?

 

[Old.Tony]

It's not a bad idea to run the engine once a week, but I used to do that more because the battery would run flat. Now that I've got a 40W solar panel on the roof charging the starter battery (and a separate 130W panel charging the aux battery in the tub) I don't have to worry about that.

But even in lockdown, you need to get supplies (food etc). It's a good excuse to take the nav out for a run.

 

[D40-4Life]

Short trips aren't really good for the DPF, but then I have a catch can and EGR delete, so does that Neg the DPF?

 

[Old.Tony]

All 3 do different functions but do have an effect on each other.

DPF - reduces soot levels in the exhaust - after everything's been through the combustion chamber.

EGR - recirculates some exhaust gas into the intake manifold so that the temperatures inside the combustion chamber don't get too high and produce oxides of nitrogen (NOx). Deleting (or blocking) this will affect soot levels because combustion will become more complete, reducing soot in the exhaust, allowing the DPF a slightly easier task.

Catch can - takes the oil mist from the blow-by gases and catches it instead of feeding it into the intake. This oil condenses inside the intake hoses and the intercooler and intake manifold. If the EGR is not blocked, the soot entering the intake manifold combines with the oil and forms large chunks of black gunk. If the EGR is blocked, the intake manifold doesn't suffer as badly but the intercooler will still need cleaning periodically from the oil mist (even if you have a catch can, which isn't perfect).

 

[D40-4Life]

Tony,

I think you did mention that a intercooler clean was a major performance enhancer, but have you cleaned out / Decarb-ed your intake system? Even though I got an EGR delete not long ago, my vehicle still has 125K of no catch can, no EGR delete, carbon gunck in it. I'm wondering if its worth doing a full intake clean? ie. pull out the parts and give it a good clean with the pressure spray?

 

[user 10312]

I think you did mention that a intercooler clean was a major performance enhancer,

He did and I have done the same. I can tell you, you will definitely feel the difference. Although I have fitted a catch can quite a few year back now it still gets oil in it and no doubt copped heaps before I did. In fact I was blown away by the amount of oil in it.

It easy to do. Remove the grill, few bolts that mount it along with clamps and hoses. There is also the boost sensor mounted on it but easy to remove. In my case I used Jet fuel (Kerosine) to flush as I can get my hands on plenty of the stuff but petrol will work well if not better. Just make sure you get all of it out. Should evaporate in short time though.

The D40 does seem to have a fair bit of Blow by. Since the clean out I did something a little naughty with the catch can venting. No oil going back in now.

As for cleaning the inlet Manifold I probably not go to the trouble. Although if you take a look in there by removing the EGR valve it might give you clue if it's worth the effort.

 

[Cuda]

just for the general information of the d40 folks ; i did a head at 391,000 on my d22 yd25 a few weeks ago ; at the time when it was in for repairs there was three d40s with head issues , one pathfinder same and one d22 all with head issues amongest an assortment of other vehicles , very common is this problem with the d40s apparently and more so the d40 over the d22 all with the same 25 , and unknown to me was the ford ranger that this garage repairs 5 heads a week being both the 2.2 and 3.2 so i wouldnt hurry to replace anything with a ranger - whilst i got the head repaired i got the entire motor rebuilt including a replacement oil pump which was working but weak,, when i got the timing chain replaced with a double row imported from the states i also got the injectors replaced as well but that was an overkill , it was just that i needed a fresh vehicle for a capeyork trip and a few remote trips done since ; this vehicle has an extra six leaves in the back , heavier spec back diff , lockers front , blah blah

Maddon,
How much did the engine rebuild set you back? I have a 2008 D40 with 140k on the clock and have had no issues with the donk and I intend to keep it until they put me in the ground. However, doesn't hurt to start budgeting for issues that may come up, especially as I'm now retired and intend to travel more.
Cheers,
Paul.

 

[maddon]

Maddon,
How much did the engine rebuild set you back? I have a 2008 D40 with 140k on the clock and have had no issues with the donk and I intend to keep it until they put me in the ground. However, doesn't hurt to start budgeting for issues that may come up, especially as I'm now retired and intend to travel more.
Cheers,
Paul.

hi mate , it came to $4850 including a good used head as mine was destroyed beyond repair and a good used oil pump as this ute is a work vehicle it needs a quick turnaround so i went with what was the quickest way out and $150 for the tow truck so it all was 5k although there now could be an issue with the injectors due to overheating since it blows a bit of black smoke now but i will get it over the 400,000 klms before i tackle this as it is not too bad atm

 

[Cuda]

hi mate , it came to $4850 including a good used head as mine was destroyed beyond repair and a good used oil pump as this ute is a work vehicle it needs a quick turnaround so i went with what was the quickest way out and $150 for the tow truck so it all was 5k although there now could be an issue with the injectors due to overheating since it blows a bit of black smoke now but i will get it over the 400,000 klms before i tackle this as it is not too bad atm

Thanks, mate. You mentioned that you got a double timing chain from the states, who did you get that from?. Just thinking that it might not be a bad idea to buy one now and keep it on the shelf in case mine starts to go.
Cheers,
Paul.

 

[maddon]

Thanks, mate. You mentioned that you got a double timing chain from the states, who did you get that from?. Just thinking that it might not be a bad idea to buy one now and keep it on the shelf in case mine starts to go.
Cheers,
Paul.

hi - with the timing chain i had a really bad experience - the original chain went at 190,000 klms , the mechanic that replaced it used a cheapie from ebay and broke the crank angle sensor in the process , only lasted 3 months and had to do it all over again , then i got west end diesel in wetherill park [ sydney ] to do the job correctly and although it cost me a fortune i had it ready for a cape york trip and has been good ever since

 

[D40-4Life]

He did and I have done the same. I can tell you, you will definitely feel the difference. Although I have fitted a catch can quite a few year back now it still gets oil in it and no doubt copped heaps before I did. In fact I was blown away by the amount of oil in it.

As for cleaning the inlet Manifold I probably not go to the trouble. Although if you take a look in there by removing the EGR valve it might give you clue if it's worth the effort.

Thanks Tappet. Cleaning the intercooler will be on my todo list.

Why would you not consider the inlet manifold a worthwhile thing?

 

[Cobez]

Boost control solenoids crap themselves after a while. Cheap to replace, but better off throwing in a Tillix valve setup and bypassing the stupid factory solenoid completely.

Usual standard stuff, get a catch can, block the EGR or get a Munji / Crispmods EGR delete cable (around $100 and 2 seconds to fit), pulley bearings will wear after a while but they are pretty easy to replace at home.

Alternator pulley will scream after a while, i didn't bother putting a new pulley on it, i just replaced the whole alternator (extremely easy job). If you want to get a bit more in depth like i did, i did a full coolant flush and replaced the thermostat with a new genuine Nissan one.

Uni joints in the diffs will eventually crap out, also reasonably easy to replace if you are mechanically minded. I replaced mine with Japanese greasable uni's.

Brake pads, rotors and front wheel bearings are VERY easy to do yourself. The bearings are a one piece hub setup, you literally take your front wheels off, undo 4 bolts for the brake caliper and tie it up out of the way, pull the rotor off (no bolts involved, just a few smacks with a dead blow hammer to loosen it), another 4 bolts hold the small hub on plus one DIRTY BIG centre nut, unplug the ABS plug and bobs your aunty. Grease new hub up, slide it on, put it all back together with new rotors and pads.

D40's are actually extremely easy to work on. Just don't try and replace the upper oil sump or the timing chain yourself. They are two absolute turd jobs.

 

[D40-4Life]

Hi Cobez, thanks for the response

block the EGR or get a Munji / Crispmods EGR delete cable

I didn't need a delete cable for my 2007 STX. Do you mean you may need one for later models?

front wheel bearings are VERY easy to do yourself.

How many Ks before the need to change the bearings? Would you recommend OEM or aftermarket?

Brake pads, rotors

I've been unhappy with my rotor and brakepad replacement. They have not been as good as factory. Ute takes more time to stop but on the plus side, they last longer. Perhaps they are good for hilly decents in the high country???

What would you recommend? DBA for rotors?? what for brakepads?? Would you reccy better brake lines?

BTW guys, my rotor and brakepads takes a while to function after a river crossing. Not sure why?

 

[Cobez]

EGR cable you can do on all models. It just tells the ECU that it's constantly running at around 2 degrees so the EGR valve doesn't open. With the blanking plates, the EGR will still open, but the gases won't get back into your intake.

Mine is a 2006 STX and i have only just done mine recently, not because they needed doing, but i have done a huge maintenance period on my D40 and replaced many things before they decide to crap out on me. But a lot of people find they need to do their wheel bearing hubs earlier. Depends on whether you do salt water, sand etc driving, which i don't.

DBA standard rotors are fine with some Bendix pads. The D40 braking system isn't amazing anyway, if you want a less "doughy" brake pedal, i'd suggest rotors, pads, upgrade the brake lines etc etc. Basically upgrade the whole braking system with aftermarket.