How to Stretch life of an old D40

[Czechmate]

Nope not serviced by nissan. I bought an 07 STX second hand in 2013 with less than 30,000 on the clock. It was already way out of warranty so i serviced it myself every 5000ks with genuine oil filters and Liqui moly dpf friendly oil ($90+ for 5 litres!!!)
There was no audible rattle or any other sign from the timing chain. I listened to the timing case with a mechanics stethoscope thingie regularly, and had my local mechanic who is a mate have a look at about 60,000 ks
He saw no sign for concern, so i said screw it, ill wait till 100,000 ks and upgrade the chain then for peace of mind

Then the bastard snapped 6 months later powering up a long steep hill on the way to my mates 30th

It was literally the first time i had ever really pushed the d40, let the turbo sing all the way up a huge hill.. I regretted it pretty quickly obviously
That said, the last couple years ive been boosting hard around the place and with the new chain in it i have plenty of confidence in the yd25

Front diffs i know bugger all about, ive never had to fix a diff as ive only had datsuns, ke corollas and the indestructible mazda b2600 before the d40

 

[Old.Tony]

How often Kms do you get the timing chain inspected?

Every service, they just have a quick listen. I can't do oil changes on her any more (Uncle Arthur has well and truly set in) so the mechanics have a quick listen.

Is this due to the corrosion issue?

No, we had a hole in the radiator (no idea why) and because it had seen better days we decided to buy a new one rather than repair the old.

Tony, have you upgraded GVM? or just done the chassis weld plate?

No GVM upgrade OR chassis weld plate. The chassis has been welded to attach the mounts for the rock sliders, but that's it.

 

[user 10312]

I heard Bilsteins are more stiff.

I heard that to. On some small bumps in the road they do seem slightly on the stiff side but then you hit a big cattle grid or wash out at speed and think this going to hurt but somehow they just soak it up. No crashing feeling at all.

One little tip, if your having them installed make sure they put a few washers under the hole the shaft goes thru, it effectively makes the shock longer. I found on mine on down travel the shock runs out of travel before the UCA hits the coil bucket. There is only a few mm in it but can not be good for the shock. Having said that I haven't killed them yet.

On the alignment I believe the Spanish built trucks don't have rear lower wishbone adjustment bolts. On the Thai built truck I have the wheel alignment is right but only just, the alignment guru said he got there but it's maxed out.

 

[Old.Tony]

On the alignment I believe the Spanish built trucks don't have rear lower wishbone adjustment bolts. On the Thai built truck I have the wheel alignment is right but only just, the alignment guru said he got there but it's maxed out.

My tyre guy says the same sort of thing about my front suspension, and tells me that Pedders apparently have some way of fixing it.

I will be calling Pedders in the next day or two to try and sort it out, it'd be nice to go on our trip this Christmas (about 9,000km) with the front wheels properly aligned.

 

[Czechmate]

So sounds like we're all in the same boat with alignments

Whether you have a spanish or thai built If you lift it 2 inches, the alignment dude will only just be able to get the front wheels square to the road, and negative camber seems an impossibility

 

[Horatius]

Thanks for the tip, I don't mind it at all. I drive more on the conservative side with all my vehicles. I suppose, I will plan going in convoy on those remote trips with the Nissan Club if the opportunity arises. I have been told that corrugations is the killer and that along with a top grade suspension upgrade, taking it leisurely with lots of breaks is the way to tackle these trips. Hard for me to know until I do it.

No worries. I removed my post because some people don't like advice (who hasn't got an opinion after all ?lol) and because Kevin already posted similar. I know people who have needed recovery from the Simpson. Not what you want. While anyone can be the recipient of bad luck, generally it's a mixture of two things...driving style being one and the most common...too heavy.

They used to joke out that way that people bring "everything but the kitchen sink", now it's no longer a joke lol. When you consider what most people have...bash plates, steel bullbar, winch, second battery, rear drawers, steel/fibreglass canopy, rooftop tent and so on. There's 6-800 kgs before you start packing. The only reason I would like a rooftop tent is for the rain, or to be away from large reptiles if around watercourses up north. The desert is a very easy place to tent it (normal tent).

The word "upgrade" can sometimes be a bit misleading. A small lift and good springs/shockies are a good thing, but it can mislead people into thinking they can pile the weight. At a certain stage the most reasonable upgrade would be to buy a 79 series cruiser or something that will do what people expect. lol.

"Corrugations" can take on a very different meaning out that way, as can the word "road". Getting over the dunes can be a struggle for a little overloaded 4cyl dual cab, it's leisurely if you only take what you need. You have the right idea, take it easy and stop often. Not a bad idea to have a look underneath regularly. Anything that can come loose, usually will.

High country not as bad as you can set a camp and then explore the tracks. You also shouldn't have to take as much. The main "iconic" tracks are generally in good condition. Steep though, wouldn't like to be too heavy there.

It has to 130K and I think it will serve me well beyond now that I am aware of some of these issues that might pop up. I thought about upgrading to the NP300 but it just felt small and I wasn't so sure about the rear indy suspension or weight carrying ability. The D40 has the right mix of kit and comfort for me, but I have learnt that its not as bomb proof as the old 4runner I had prior. Its more delicate. Still, if I can get another 150-200K out of it, I will continue to keep it.

That's barely run in lol.

I don't know that much about the D40 but if the forerunner was anything like the old solid front axle hilux, they would be nearly indestructible (though I have seen even these broken out on the tracks).

If you've got any good moderately rough and steep tracks close by it's a good idea to hit them and then later on go out for a couple of days loaded up. You'll soon find what your car is comfortable with and feel the difference. Sounds like you'll be with some experienced people anyway. The main thing is to enjoy it.

 

[KevinE]

So front lockers will add strength to the front diffs?

I think that you're confusing what diff lockers actually do, with diff durability?

The locker is there to stop/reduce crossover when things go pear shaped in soft sand/mud and to assist with traction when rock hopping.

Diff lockers actually increase the chances of failure due to the "the more gadgets, the more can go wrong" principle. Not saying they DO fail, just saying that they have a higher % chance of failing than open/LSD's.

I'm too old to go rock hopping & so far I've gotten away with stock diffs in the desert. However, the events unfolding in the NT at the moment have me seriously reconsidering diff lockers!

 

[Horatius]

I think that you're confusing what diff lockers actually do, with diff durability?

The locker is there to stop/reduce crossover when things go pear shaped in soft sand/mud and to assist with traction when rock hopping.

Diff lockers actually increase the chances of failure due to the "the more gadgets, the more can go wrong" principle. Not saying they DO fail, just saying that they have a higher % chance of failing than open/LSD's.

I'm too old to go rock hopping & so far I've gotten away with stock diffs in the desert. However, the events unfolding in the NT at the moment have me seriously reconsidering diff lockers!

The auto locka's would probably strengthen the front diff, simply due to having less parts! Very simple design. Not sure if available for the d40 though.The idea with them is that you can just crawl through the rough stuff, you don't need the momentum and don't have to bounce your way through it.

 

[KevinE]

Yeah, you're right, but it's the way they get actuated. I worded it badly above. Any automated actuation introduces more bits that can go wrong (as in the recent thread where someone lost drive to the wheels in a D40 because the 4WD system failed. Not the actual drive chain, just the system that switches it on & off)

 

[Old.Tony]

I think that if you're going to go somewhere that presents a risk of lifting a front wheel, a locker or autolocker is a good idea.

The reason isn't the simplicity of the extra parts - it's because of what could happen if you lift a wheel, get the front axle spinning fast and then let the wheel bite. The rotational energy in the wheel has to go somewhere as the tyre grips the ground, and that can only go in one direction - towards the diff. I've seen broken axles and cracked diffs - photos are on this forum of these, somewhere. The locker prevents this completely in the D22 and D40 cars because neither has a central diff - if your rear drive line is planted on the ground, your front drive is going to propel no matter what, and since both model cars have open front diffs, if the front diff is locked then both front wheels MUST go in the same direction - a lifted front wheel will not spin.

I'd rather have a little more complexity and remove the risk of breaking the front driveline than otherwise.

While we are going to Cameron Corner these coming holidays, we're not going to do a lot of soft sand (and I'm not towing the van all the way there, I'm leaving it safely at Tibooburra). But when we do go to Birdsville and take the run over Big Red to Poeppl's Corner, we should have a front locker fitted for the journey.

 

[Horatius]

I think that if you're going to go somewhere that presents a risk of lifting a front wheel, a locker or autolocker is a good idea.

The reason isn't the simplicity of the extra parts - it's because of what could happen if you lift a wheel, get the front axle spinning fast and then let the wheel bite. The rotational energy in the wheel has to go somewhere as the tyre grips the ground, and that can only go in one direction - towards the diff. I've seen broken axles and cracked diffs - photos are on this forum of these, somewhere. The locker prevents this completely in the D22 and D40 cars because neither has a central diff - if your rear drive line is planted on the ground, your front drive is going to propel no matter what, and since both model cars have open front diffs, if the front diff is locked then both front wheels MUST go in the same direction - a lifted front wheel will not spin.

I'd rather have a little more complexity and remove the risk of breaking the front driveline than otherwise.

While we are going to Cameron Corner these coming holidays, we're not going to do a lot of soft sand (and I'm not towing the van all the way there, I'm leaving it safely at Tibooburra). But when we do go to Birdsville and take the run over Big Red to Poeppl's Corner, we should have a front locker fitted for the journey.

I agree re the locker. In these little dual cabs, the single best mod would be an auto lokka for the price IMO. Followed by a small lift and some decent tyres. These cars have very poor wheel travel, like most ifs cars. Virtually anywhere that you could describe as a "4wd" track will have the wheels lifting to some extent.

You won't need a locker out round the corner or big red. You'll appreciate good suspension though lol.

 

[D40-4Life]

Czechmate wrote : He saw no sign for concern, so i said screw it, ill wait till 100,000 ks and upgrade the chain then for peace of mind

Then the bastard snapped 6 months later powering up a long steep hill on the way to my mates 30th

Sounds like it didn't do too much damage to your engine.

I'm not planning on going on any trips now until I get a timing chain upgrade. I had a figure of $2500 being thrown around.

Old Tony wrote : No, we had a hole in the radiator (no idea why) and because it had seen better days we decided to buy a new one rather than repair the old.

Just checked my radiator cap and the rubber under is still smooth. No cracks or wrinkles. My radiator still looks kinda new. According to YD25 as long as I use genuine coolant, I won't have the issues with the transmission. I'll push the trans cooler down the priority queue a bit.

The chassis has been welded to attach the mounts for the rock sliders, but that's it.

don't they make Nissan D40 specific rock sliders that are bolt on out of the box?

I'm looking at these rock sliders from Southern Cross Fabworks

https://scfabworks.com.au/products/nissan-navara-rock-sliders?variant=13911016964162

but I reckon for touring, I probably won't need rock sliders and its extra weight, correct me if I'm wrong guys.

Tappet wrote : On the alignment I believe the Spanish built trucks don't have rear lower wishbone adjustment bolts.

If we are on the same page, I think my Spain build has em. I'll upload a picture

I found on mine on down travel the shock runs out of travel before the UCA hits the coil bucket.

I was told that you'd have to cut a bit of the coil towers or hammer them in a bit. An aftermarket UCA would fix this right away I think.

Horatius wrote : No worries. I removed my post because some people don't like advice

I was wondering where it disappeared to. Not much advice from you I would counter. What I am getting is that weight is a big big issue.

Wondering what your take is on bash plates? Necessary? I Reckon the bull bar / winch would be unnecessary in the desert but may be necessary when on a trip to the Cape.

Have you seen people winching themselves over sand dunes?

KevinE wrote : I think that you're confusing what diff lockers actually do, with diff durability?

I thought there might be something you knew which I didn't. I have lockers in my D40. Saved me a few times up in the high country. Awesome product. Never really had to work the engine hard with lockers on. I'm also aware of how fragile the front diff is as well as the CVs. Which is why I'd like to get bash plates and prevent any further underbody damage. I accidently ran over what I thought was a small branch of leaves (which I normally avoid for fear or ripping my CV boots) and found a one inch stake wedge through my tie down point. imagine the damage that would have caused if it hit something else.

Hoartius wrote : The idea with them is that you can just crawl through the rough stuff, you don't need the momentum and don't have to bounce your way through it.

Is the autolokka less prone to bounce damage to the CVs as a normal locker would be?

You'll appreciate good suspension though lol.

The Lift is on my todo as soon as I load it up.

 

[Horatius]

I was wondering where it disappeared to. Not much advice from you I would counter. What I am getting is that weight is a big big issue.

Wondering what your take is on bash plates? Necessary? I Reckon the bull bar / winch would be unnecessary in the desert but may be necessary when on a trip to the Cape.

Have you seen people winching themselves over sand dunes?

Have never had bash plates (apart from the standard ones they come with), never thought they were necessary. Rock sliders would be useful but not necessary in the desert country. A winch is generally worthwhile, especially for steep or wet tracks. You might never need it, but if you do it's there.

Probably not necessary in the desert though, but I still leave mine on. You never know, if for some reason you can't quite make it over a dune, you can anchor it to another vehicle and winch up. Sometimes the clay pans can be a bit wet and boggy also so it might be helpful if you find someone else stuck. I take all the normal recovery gear.

Some of the tracks just getting out there can be a bit epic on their own. Extremely remote places.

I'm comparatively light though even with a winch. I don't have drawers (ones I looked at were around 300kg) or any fancy kitchen set up. My entire camping gear/ kitchen gear with food would probably weigh less than a set of drawers lol. All sorts of other things to carry though, second spare, parts, tools, extra fuel and lots of water.

Is the autolokka less prone to bounce damage to the CVs as a normal locker would be?

Probably not, but a big advantage is you can turn corners with them. Most blokes I know with front lockers have to disengage to turn. These are on all the time so you don't have to have a go at something and then decide, or forget to use the locker. Changes the way you drive and makes them so much more capable. A lifted front wheel can still spin up if you just use a rear locker, not sure to what effect though. An auto lokka stops this all together.

The Lift is on my todo as soon as I load it up.

Yeah, some good quality springs and shockies will make a difference. Otherwise you'll be too low in the rear loaded up. As you probably already know, the higher the better for river crossings. No need to go too high, especially at the front. Otherwise you'll stress the cv's. Though mine has torsion bars (d40's have coils?) so I adjusted them so the front is just a bit lower than the rear when loaded.

 

[ericcs]

bash plate is essential to protect the radiator at least. many d40's have cooked as a result of bottoming out under the front bumper, which shoves the radiator up and into the fan. also can rip the hoses and trans cooler pipes off!

 

[D40-4Life]

bash plate is essential to protect the radiator at least. many d40's have cooked as a result of bottoming out under the front bumper, which shoves the radiator up and into the fan. also can rip the hoses and trans cooler pipes off!

I agree. The stock ones will definitely crumple.

As you probably already know, the higher the better for river crossings

Wouldn't stronger bash plates be essential for river crossings? I always get a funny feeling I've hit something on the odd occasions.

tools, extra fuel and lots of water.

This is where most of the weight comes from

 

[Horatius]

Wouldn't stronger bash plates be essential for river crossings? I always get a funny feeling I've hit something on the odd occasions.

On a d40 maybe, I don't know much about them. I haven't ever needed them, done a lot of river crossings. Had a few marks on the cross members over the years (not from river crossings though) but it's not a problem. It's the "side steps" that take a battering on rough tracks. Proper sliders would be much better.

This is where most of the weight comes from

Yes, a lot of it. Unless you have 6-800 kg of accessories to begin with, then that's probably where most of the weight is. I take 80 litres extra fuel and 70 lts of water across the Simpson for instance, to be on the safe side (in case of diversions etc). This 150kg is not a problem at all if you plan for it, distribute the load and are light to begin with. I think I'm not that much heavier loaded up than other cars I have seen, before they pack. Helps with fuel too, I can do that trip on 75 litres.

 

[D40-4Life]

It's the "side steps" that take a battering on rough tracks.

You reckon side steps are mandatory in the high country?

tappet writes:

I put in an EGR blanking plate when it almost new. Catch Can and muffler delete.

I have recently been introduced to a EGR delete kit from YD25.com.au. Its a little bit more involved than a blanking plate.

Is there any additional benefit to using this over just your standard blanking plate? I read that there could be leaks that allow coolant to get into the manifold and this prevents it from happening. You lose your EGR completely.

Wonder if a roadworthy check would pick it up.

Old.Tony writes:

I have replaced the radiator (once), the turbocharger (twice)

What went wrong with the Turbocharger? Why'd you have to replace it? Is it just due to towing?

 

[Old.Tony]

First time I replaced the turbo it was worn out, yes we tow quite a lot. I replaced it with an aftermarket unit that just wasn't up to the mark. I've now got a genuine Honeywell Garrett unit in and it's purring along nicely. The turbo specialist in Qld told us that towing will do it - so for long-haul trips, I carry a spare turbo in the car.

 

[Horatius]

You reckon side steps are mandatory in the high country?

I don't like sidesteps much. They seem more for looks than anything and the only reason I have them is because they came with the car. I have had damage to the floor where they bolt on from giving them a hammering. Far better with sliders that mount to the chassis if you're going to take on tougher more "technical" tracks, much stronger.

It depends what you want to do in the high country. Most of the main tracks seem to be kept in good condition. Extremely steep in places though, so you don't need much of an obstacle for it to be a struggle. Lots of river crossings too. Wouldn't go near that place in wet weather lol.

If you're sticking to the main tracks and doing touring type travel, you shouldn't need sliders. It's a big place with lots of tracks though, some of them very rough so, how long is a piece of string?

Always thought they should have a standard cb channel there to check for traffic, the way they do in the desert. On some tracks if you find someone going in the opposite direction, there can be no way to pass and someone is going to have to reverse for many kilometres.

 

[Czechmate]

A good thing about sidesteps is they stop sticks that you hit on the road at speed from flinging up into your doors

Also smaller roos coming in from the side will deflect off them and not your panels

Ive only got the stock sidesteps on the d40 but they've saved a few dents