Adding 2-Stroke oil to Diesel

[d22dave]

any one know where to buy bulk 2t cheap? nothing much on ebay.

Xl lubricants in Bayswater, its listed on a post in Australia 4wd, price listed is $100 for 20 liters but it doesn't mention a brand

 

[daz_rad]

isn't it written in our manuals that we cant use biodeisel anyway because it go's to gell at 3 degrees celcius, try'ed some 2t in mine and i noticed no change in engine noise so i might get my timing chain checked just in case. it may even still be noisey worn injectors, but if the timing chain does stretch wouldn't that make the injectors noisey anyway.

Different bio fuels have different cloud points or "freeze points" depending on what they are derived from. In Canada and the US truck drivers that use biodiesel in below freezing temperatures also use additives to stop the fuel turning to gel or freezing.

Our diesel can have up to 5% biodiesel in them now, without being labeled. And that percentage is going to be increased more and more over the years.
http://www.environment.gov.au/atmosphere/fuelquality/standards/diesel.html

 

[daz_rad]

this one only has the front page and 9 pages of index....

Hmm... That's an expensive book too. You can download it from here if you register, it's free.

http://librarypirate.ph/?p=torrents&pid=10&action=details&tid=11797

Sorry about that I did realise after I posted and hoped it didn't get spotted lol

 

[daz_rad]

Apparently the synth doesnt mix with diesel.

I wanted to do the test and mix some up in a glass jar to see, but never got around to it. Maybe you can do this daz, and post results/pics since you've got some handy and seem to be into it atm?

I did the test today and had a mate with me so we rebounded our thoughts on the observations we made and here it is:

I used castrol T2 Mineral and Fully synthetic oils and filled a couple clear jars with 500ml of diesel each.


I filled up two caps with 10ml of each oil and poured them in one at a time observing how they reacted instantly.

We noticed that they reacted pretty much the same, as far as the naked eye can see anyway.

It was almost like adding dye to water, the oil was clearly a bit heavier and it headed right for the bottom of the jar. Both mixes appear to have stopped moving after 25 minutes and they have settled stronger at the bottom and lighter towards the top.

I timed and mixed both the oils and we both observed that the synthetic oil built up a thick tornado like swirl before it took 25 seconds to fully dissolve. The mineral oil took a mere 5 seconds to dissolve after building up the same thick tornado like swirl as the synthetic did.


After 6 hours of not being disturbed I checked the jars again and they both appeared to be fully dissolved and have both mixed very well.

I mixed the ratio at 50:1 because that's the ratio recommended by the manufacturer, I will leave the jars on the shelf for a week and see what happens.

 

[rabbit-chop]

Legend! See if it seperates in a week!

 

[KraftyPg]

Our diesel can have up to 5% biodiesel in them now, without being labeled. And that percentage is going to be increased more and more over the years.

The increasing of the blend is not the issue, at this stage anything commercially available up to 20% is given the same testing as the 5% blended fuels and therefore must be warranted against by the supplier. If the lowest blended mix is forced to rise by government ruling or other such legal ruling then manufacturers of the fuel will again be required to prove it's worth and car manufacturers will have no choice but to warrant against it. Those United type servos who sell up to 20% blended fuels are treated exactly the same as the 5% blends. They may be scrutinized but can't automatically be blamed as the faulty product.

The Bio fuels that manufacturers suggest owners avoid are different, they are the home made fuels made in back yard vats from who knows what. It's the unknown of the non commercial product which is the issue not the fact that it's blended that causes the problems.

Although the quantities of 2T are minimal you can guarantee if a manufacturer wants to try and prove they aren't liable for the warranty even a small amount of owner added oil would be enough to class it as a non commercial bio fuel.

 

[fourocker]

Good stuff !! as far as I'm aware the issue with synthetic or semi synthetic is the improper combustion of the synthetic components, apparently there is an un burnt residue left behind, where as the mineral is fully combustible.

 

[Krankin]

so then the super exxy synthetic 2T's are no good for what they are specifically designed for...2 cycle engines?????WTF?????

 

[Old.Tony]

so then the super exxy synthetic 2T's are no good for what they are specifically designed for...2 cycle engines?????WTF?????

I think I might know the difference.

The synthetic 2Ts are designed to lubricate the petrol engine internals and then be combusted. I thought I'd read somewhere that 2T in petrol only emulsifies, it doesn't chemically combine - so mineral or synthetic 2T in petrol is the same thing in the long run.

However, mineral 2T is supposed to chemically combine with dinosaur diesel (I don't know what it will do with biodiesel). It's entirely possible that synthetic 2T won't chemically combine with diesel so the combination is NOT the same (as mineral 2T + dinosaur diesel). If synthetic 2T only emulsifies in diesel then it will be a completely different thing in the pump/rail/injectors/combustion chamber.

This obviously also raises the issue of 2T + biodiesel (blend). What is likely to happen? Will 2T improve the blending or utterly destroy it?

It's something that has to be considered, because we're all going to be using biodiesel blends at some point.

 

[rabbit-chop]

^^ Yeah, that confuses the shit out of me - that a more advanced 2t is going to gunk up your engine. Edit: sorry old tony, i didnt see your post there.

Anyway im going to throw a bit more bollocks on the pile;
Iv just gotten some castrol active 2t- and i can notice no apreciable difference to straight diesel, whereas with the shell advance 2t i was getting a marked differnce in noise, (quieter) especially when cold, but also at temperature, and less lugging at low rpm.

 

[rabbit-chop]

Sorry old tony, i didnt see your post there^^.

 

[Krankin]

^^ Yeah, that confuses the shit out of me - that a more advanced 2t is going to gunk up your engine. Edit: sorry old tony, i didnt see your post there.

Anyway im going to throw a bit more bollocks on the pile;
Iv just gotten some castrol active 2t- and i can notice no apreciable difference to straight diesel, whereas with the shell advance 2t i was getting a marked differnce in noise, (quieter) especially when cold, but also at temperature, and less lugging at low rpm.

"oils aint oils"

 

[superiorcruiser]

doing this shit doesnt do anything...scrap the whole thing..total waste of time and money

 

[rabbit-chop]

Iv just gotten some castrol active 2t- and i can notice no apreciable difference to straight diesel, whereas with the shell advance 2t i was getting a marked differnce in noise, (quieter) especially when cold, but also at temperature, and less lugging at low rpm.

I think i may have gotten a bad batch of fuel cos it was running like dog shit- clattery and rough. Also may have had something to do with the fact i dumped the 250ml on top of a full tank instead of the other way round, so maybe didnt mix as well as i thought it would. It was running better as i got towards the last quarter tank.
150km into my 2nd tank using 250ml of the castrol advance. Lovvin it. Very smooth, no clatter just good diesel growl, pulls smooth from down low.

 

[rabbit-chop]

I did the test today and had a mate with me so we rebounded our thoughts on the observations we made and here it is:

I used castrol T2 Mineral and Fully synthetic oils and filled a couple clear jars with 500ml of diesel each.
View attachment 8341

I filled up two caps with 10ml of each oil and poured them in one at a time observing how they reacted instantly.
View attachment 8342View attachment 8343View attachment 8344
We noticed that they reacted pretty much the same, as far as the naked eye can see anyway.

It was almost like adding dye to water, the oil was clearly a bit heavier and it headed right for the bottom of the jar. Both mixes appear to have stopped moving after 25 minutes and they have settled stronger at the bottom and lighter towards the top.

I timed and mixed both the oils and we both observed that the synthetic oil built up a thick tornado like swirl before it took 25 seconds to fully dissolve. The mineral oil took a mere 5 seconds to dissolve after building up the same thick tornado like swirl as the synthetic did.
View attachment 8345

After 6 hours of not being disturbed I checked the jars again and they both appeared to be fully dissolved and have both mixed very well.

I mixed the ratio at 50:1 because that's the ratio recommended by the manufacturer, I will leave the jars on the shelf for a week and see what happens.

How is this going?

also, you said yours was running rough initially on the penrite, and you thought it might be due to the 2t dislodging carbon build up or some such. hows it going now?

 

[Black Beautie]

Adding 2stroke

Hi Jason. Great name same as my 13year old son. Sorry back to the subject I have heard that they are using BIO fuel other in the UK. But I don't know if they using it over here.

 

[Old.Tony]

You've reminded me to provide a little update on mine as well. I'd run my previous tank (300ml of 2-stroke added to the 150L tank). I refilled 148.93L at the same servo I normally use.

After about 200km the clatter returned to the injectors and she's back to "normal". I'm going to fill the tank again with dinosaur (from the same source again) when it's time and THEN I'll add some 2-stroke to see if the injectors noticeably quieten at a particular point.

 

[VBsteve]

Page 62 and still going. Go you good thing go like a fire truck.

Vbsteve

 

[demun]

G'day One and All,

I'm new to this forum having just purchased a 2006 D22 STR fitted with the ZD30 donk. This will replace my '92 D21 2.7D but add to my '99 GU 4.2TD.

I haven't had the time to read all post on this thread but what i have read raises a concern regarding use when the vehicle is fitted with a Diesel Particulates Filter (DPF).

If you have a DPF fitted don't put 2T oil in your fuel.

There is quite a good thread on the patrol4X4.com forum (of which i am a member and contributer). You can search there on 2T oil or my user name (demun). If the latter you'll also see most of the mods I've done to my patrol of which one may be of interest here - the pressurised bell housing mod to keep water out of the clutch where engaging in water crossings - a mod soon to be done to the new Nav together with the EGR and catch tank mods.

Cheers, .. Dino

 

[t.jarvis]

anyone heard of runaway diesel??!! seriously suggest you don't do this! crd engines are not designed to run on anything but diesel with a cetane rating over 51, not like an old pre combustion chamber job, just because it's on the Internet does not make it true, how do I know this? well I've only been a mechanic for 17 years and a tafe teacher for 5