EGT fitted, 290 at 110KM/H
What did you do to your navara today?
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EGT fitted, 290 at 110KM/H
GunMentalGrey
Member
after Monday's lesson on digging the Navara out of soft sand I finally had time to wash it today. Was surprised how much clean looking sand came out of the chassis rails when I poked the hose into some of the holes. Not much other debris, mostly beach sand. Cleaning engine bay tomorrow in prep for rego inspection next week. Otherwise all is fine in navara land.
Power gains, while its only been in the vehicle for 6 days, im certainly noticing a better response on the power pedal.
Like every one else with a D22, I was on the quest for more power, as a heavy vehicle mechanic, thats not something I can put to bed after the idea pops in to my head, the initial idea was a fore front turbo, but thats cheap Chinese junk, the next idea that was thrown around was grab a D40 turbo, I toyed with that idea for a few weeks, but it involved modifying the dump pipe, D40 is 3 bolt D22 is 4 Bolt. For the first series D40 turbo it bolts on to the D22 exhaust manifold no problem, the power tho is in the 2nd series D40 turbo, problem with that is they changed the exhaust manifold to a 4 bolt and over the top mount (turbo bolts on top of manifold instead of below) there was suggestions of buying a entire D40 hot side, and doing a 1 inch body lift to get the space between the top mount intercooler, this was starting to become a big project, both time, resources, and money wise.
In the end, I settled with buying a used D22 IHI RHF4 turbo, with about 108,000 kms on it, from a guy that had a YD25 engine thats locked solid... hes unsure of why its locked solid, but judging by the mud that came out of the oil lines in the turbo, I would say its never been serviced. My 2009 D22 has 104,000 kms on it.
With the 2nd hand turbo in hand (with some less than desirable end float....) I dropped it into Per4manzturbos here in Perth (Welshpool) it got an overhaul, and a Billet wheel/high flow, the compressor is 1mm bigger, and the turbine is 2mm bigger. I went for the 6 blade compressor wheel (torque) over the 11 blade compressor wheel (power). Fitted it the Friday before Christmas, in roughly 3 hours to do the swap in chassis. The good news is my old turbo came out with zero end float.
Ive not yet put it on the dyno, thats in the pipe line, along with tinkering around with the HKS, I shall keep you posted of the power, after the dyno run. Biggest noticeable change is at 100km/h my snorkel doesn't sound like 737 engine.
Like every one else with a D22, I was on the quest for more power, as a heavy vehicle mechanic, thats not something I can put to bed after the idea pops in to my head, the initial idea was a fore front turbo, but thats cheap Chinese junk, the next idea that was thrown around was grab a D40 turbo, I toyed with that idea for a few weeks, but it involved modifying the dump pipe, D40 is 3 bolt D22 is 4 Bolt. For the first series D40 turbo it bolts on to the D22 exhaust manifold no problem, the power tho is in the 2nd series D40 turbo, problem with that is they changed the exhaust manifold to a 4 bolt and over the top mount (turbo bolts on top of manifold instead of below) there was suggestions of buying a entire D40 hot side, and doing a 1 inch body lift to get the space between the top mount intercooler, this was starting to become a big project, both time, resources, and money wise.
In the end, I settled with buying a used D22 IHI RHF4 turbo, with about 108,000 kms on it, from a guy that had a YD25 engine thats locked solid... hes unsure of why its locked solid, but judging by the mud that came out of the oil lines in the turbo, I would say its never been serviced. My 2009 D22 has 104,000 kms on it.
With the 2nd hand turbo in hand (with some less than desirable end float....) I dropped it into Per4manzturbos here in Perth (Welshpool) it got an overhaul, and a Billet wheel/high flow, the compressor is 1mm bigger, and the turbine is 2mm bigger. I went for the 6 blade compressor wheel (torque) over the 11 blade compressor wheel (power). Fitted it the Friday before Christmas, in roughly 3 hours to do the swap in chassis. The good news is my old turbo came out with zero end float.
Ive not yet put it on the dyno, thats in the pipe line, along with tinkering around with the HKS, I shall keep you posted of the power, after the dyno run. Biggest noticeable change is at 100km/h my snorkel doesn't sound like 737 engine.
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autoloving
Member
i fixed a couple of seat covers from dingo trails on my navara. they were pretty good
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happy john
Member
^looks like polite Spamming in the previous post. Infernal great to try something new, look forward to when you get it on the dyno and see the results. I make excellent power but the standard turbo still cannot keep up and runs out of puff.
Cheers
Cheers
jonney
Member
I do feel the first mod i would do before upgrading the power / torque by fitting chips / larger turbos etc etc would have to be the fitting of a good quality double row timing chain kit.
the timing chains on these engines are the main let down and by increasing horsepower , you only increasing the chances of premature timing chain failure. maybe this is why the d-40 engine seems to bust the chain early in life as the engine does supply alot more power than the d-22 engine in stock form. worth a thought guys.
the timing chains on these engines are the main let down and by increasing horsepower , you only increasing the chances of premature timing chain failure. maybe this is why the d-40 engine seems to bust the chain early in life as the engine does supply alot more power than the d-22 engine in stock form. worth a thought guys.
Rabbid-chop
Member
Extra torque and power has no effect on timing chain. Only extra RPM. Just sayin'.
If the extra torque was going to expose a weak point it will more likely be the clutch.
Your timing chain concerns might well be valid and should be looked into regardless whether you are running a chip or not.
If the extra torque was going to expose a weak point it will more likely be the clutch.
Your timing chain concerns might well be valid and should be looked into regardless whether you are running a chip or not.
Rabbid-chop
Member
This sounds like the perfect bolt on solution. I wish I had done it this way instead of all the fabwork that went into putting something else on . Im surprised more people dont do this, myself included lol.
Rabbid-chop
Member
Whereabouts have you got your thermocouple mounted mate? Is this on the stock turbo or the new one? Cheers.
jonney
Member
actually i thought rpms just made the engine run free without any stress as opposed to a high torque / high horsepower engine which would cause extra strain on certasin engine componants such as the timing chain . lets say we have a slightly worn chain tensioner or stretched chain for example and we drive in a high gear up a hill, does the timing chain make a rattle sound ? now drive this same vehicle on a flat ground at speed [ rpms ] does the chain rattle ? there is more load on this part when its under strain than when its not under strain. rattle versus no rattle. we used to get this alot in the old cars when the timing was out and the engine would Ping under load up a hill.
Its in the dump pipe, about 2 inches from the flange. This temp was on the stock turbo.
If you go back a page or two, you'll see that I have a HKS fitted and pushing out 155 RWHP on stock Turbo.
Rabbid-chop
Member
^ ok cheers. Seems healthy. Will be interested to know what it reads on the new turbo.
happy john
Member
Really looking forward to how this turns out Infernal. Jonney I get what you mean about the timing chain, I’ve driven around for 5 years now with 159hp atw. The rig itself has been close to 3 tonne for 3 years and before that the van was a modest 1.7 tonne. I plan to upgrade the timing chain at 200k so probably later this year. I’ll install it myself and save the labour. The chain only drives the cams and pump so no problems if you push out more ponies. I’ve got no intentions of upgrading the car though I should for tax reasons. So preventative maintenance is the best thing I can do.
Put it on the dyno on Tuesday, had to put my tail between my legs, I need a new stronger wastegate actuator, too much pressure on the exhaust side was forcing the gate open. I've ordered a 29 PSI actuator, will fit and re visit.
Re-connected the Tunit chip back up ....hasn't been connected for about 2 years...wanted to see if it fixes up the problem I'm having of missing / surging between 1500 rpm and about 2900 rpm in 4th gear ( mostly ) ... seems to have not fixed it ....also I just put a volt meter on my battery to check the charge....(resting and running) ...all good.
I can't remember....is the green light on the Tunit supposed to be flashing slow ( no load ) , flashing quicker ( mild acceleration ) and red light on under heavy acceleration?
I can't remember....is the green light on the Tunit supposed to be flashing slow ( no load ) , flashing quicker ( mild acceleration ) and red light on under heavy acceleration?
bods
Member
What have you got Mike, d22 or d40? I'm not sure about the d40, but those symptoms on the d22 normally point to a failing neutral position switch. It is on the side of the gearbox. I'd try unplugging that first and see if it helps the surging issue.
Bods,
It's a D22, 2005 . Yeah, Ive been searching high and low for answers to the problem. The power is there in the right rev range and I'm happy with the turbo operation, since I recently cleaned out the really gungky throttle body, and put a catch can on it. I've been replacing any vacuum hoses that look the slightest bit dodgy, but haven't had any gauges on to test vacuum pressure. I'll get under the car and disconnect the Park / neutral switch and see how it goes. Thanks for the advice.....I'll let you know how it goes.
Mick
It's a D22, 2005 . Yeah, Ive been searching high and low for answers to the problem. The power is there in the right rev range and I'm happy with the turbo operation, since I recently cleaned out the really gungky throttle body, and put a catch can on it. I've been replacing any vacuum hoses that look the slightest bit dodgy, but haven't had any gauges on to test vacuum pressure. I'll get under the car and disconnect the Park / neutral switch and see how it goes. Thanks for the advice.....I'll let you know how it goes.
Mick
bods
Member
Hopefully that sorts it out. Sorry, I can't help with the chip though, hopefully someone else can help with that.
G'day Bods....
Last night I disconnected the Neutral position switch ( wasn't easy ....it had really "frozen" in there...) and I copped a facefull of fine red dirt! Anyway I can see that it also operates the "High Idle" function too. Took it for a ride and "bingo!"....no surging / missing / un-eveness......it's great! You nailed the diagnosis....thanks heaps for that. I recently tested the operation of the NPS about 1 week ago by checking that the High Idle doesn't operate in any of the gears.....it all worked well, so I guess it is an intermittent thing when the vehicle is under way.
Anyway.....a new one is on the way for $23.00...pretty happy with that. I have done some research and my Tunit chip is doing what it is supposed to. Thanks again Bods.
Last night I disconnected the Neutral position switch ( wasn't easy ....it had really "frozen" in there...) and I copped a facefull of fine red dirt! Anyway I can see that it also operates the "High Idle" function too. Took it for a ride and "bingo!"....no surging / missing / un-eveness......it's great! You nailed the diagnosis....thanks heaps for that. I recently tested the operation of the NPS about 1 week ago by checking that the High Idle doesn't operate in any of the gears.....it all worked well, so I guess it is an intermittent thing when the vehicle is under way.
Anyway.....a new one is on the way for $23.00...pretty happy with that. I have done some research and my Tunit chip is doing what it is supposed to. Thanks again Bods.
