Elec gremlin

[ShortyNavros]

Okay this is the video of what it does when you flick to ignition and try to glow the plugs https://vid.me/5pJa

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[Rumpig]

Did you clean the positive terminal to? My glow relay was doing the same thing.

 

[ShortyNavros]

Okay update. I have sandpaper cleaned all the earths on that drivers side engine bay including the ones on the manifold. Also cleaned both battery posts and their attachments. So far no luck still seems to do it. I pulled off the cover of the egi relay and it was fine it makes contact easily. Also I bridged the connection over the glow relay with some wire and spade terminals thereby bypassing it and it still did the mad clicking at the EGR cooler. Oddly the tacho jump seems to have disappeared? So I have ruled out the components that I though had the most potential to fail and they all seem good. What controls the power supply to the glow relay and the EGR cooler that could make them click so rapidly and randomly?! I am about to pull my hair out! I am not even game to drive the bloody thing incase I go somewhere and it won't start again (almost happened the other day watching my Gf play soccer).

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[abouttogobush]

Okay update. I have sandpaper cleaned all the earths on that drivers side engine bay including the ones on the manifold. Also cleaned both battery posts and their attachments. So far no luck still seems to do it. I pulled off the cover of the egi relay and it was fine it makes contact easily. Also I bridged the connection over the glow relay with some wire and spade terminals thereby bypassing it and it still did the mad clicking at the EGR cooler. Oddly the tacho jump seems to have disappeared? So I have ruled out the components that I though had the most potential to fail and they all seem good. What controls the power supply to the glow relay and the EGR cooler that could make them click so rapidly and randomly?! I am about to pull my hair out! I am not even game to drive the bloody thing incase I go somewhere and it won't start again (almost happened the other day watching my Gf play soccer).

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why don't you just take the fcukin thing to an auto electrician?

 

[ShortyNavros]

I have a mate who is an auto leccy and he has no clue what it could be. Only had a quick look at it though. Id say that will be my next move.

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[gadgets]

why don't you just take the fcukin thing to an auto electrician?

Not everyone's got the spare cash to pay for labor. Or he might just want to diagnose the problem himself and then gets a auto elec to fix it.
Then again, he might prefer to fix it himself, just needs some help solving the problem.
" why don't you just take the fcukin thing to an auto electrician?" isn't going to help him out much mate.

 

[abouttogobush]

Not everyone's got the spare cash to pay for labor. Or he might just want to diagnose the problem himself and then gets a auto elec to fix it.
Then again, he might prefer to fix it himself, just needs some help solving the problem.
" why don't you just take the fcukin thing to an auto electrician?" isn't going to help him out much mate.

 

[ShortyNavros]

Yeah I like solving **** on my own. I got ripped off hard by mechanics when i was younger with my first car, hence I endevoured to learn as much as possible to so I could do as much as possible by myself. But this really has me scratching my head and I think it is going to defeat me. On ECU talk I have a code 95 turbo pressure from 8 starts this is likely due to me starting the car without the boost pressure sensor connected. Other error is code 73 P3-Pump Com Line (14 starts). This may come from when I attempt to start the car before the clicking has stabilised and the glow light goes out and the car will stall unless i keep the revs up? That is my thinking.

 

[ShortyNavros]

That is a fuel pump code which scares me, but the car runs perfectly fine once it is started and warm, which makes me doubt the fuel pump is the issue. Maybe some wiring from the fuel pump? Also are there any earths I have missed? I cleaned the ones on the manifold, the one underneath the glow relay, the neg battery earth which connects to the cabin body and also cleaned the earth on the inside of the cab behind the lower kick panel. Also cleaned the battery terminals. What volts should I be reading while the car is off after a while? To rule out the battery isnt cactus (Its like 6 months old tops?). I do have a dual battery isolator with a function to link them in parallel for jump starts, if I hit that switch if it is a cranking battery issue that should rule that out yeah?

 

[ShortyNavros]

Also I have brand new earths which go from engine to cab, engine to battery and a new alternator earth with heavier gauge wiring as I was having voltage drop due to corrosion a while back and decided to replace the old ones and add extras as fail safes, and also change the alternator one to larger gauge wire as it was pretty small compared to the main one.

 

[Rumpig]

Could it be the ignition barrel?

 

[jonney]

have you tried a new Ignition Relay?

 

[ShortyNavros]

Could it be the ignition barrel?

Also thought about that I tried wiggling the key around when it turned it to ignition to see if the relays stopped clicking and no dice

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[ShortyNavros]

have you tried a new Ignition Relay?

Tried the new ignition relay and it looks to have made stuff all difference. The car is with an auto electrician now so he can turn it on while its cold and see all the symptoms himself

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[ShortyNavros]

Okay update. Picked up my car from the auto leccy this arvo, they found nothing wrong with the car except when they load tested the start (750cca) they could only get 400cca max. So I said sweet battery is only 11 months old still got warranty. Went to the battery guy, he load tested and got 650cca said symptoms didn't sound like battery. Anyway he swapped a new battery in and said he would take mine and charge it up and load test it when its cold overnight. Anyway the car did the same thing with the new battery after I went for a hit of golf at the driving range. Also linking up my two batteries when the relays are clicking does nothing either. So that pretty much rules out the battery as an issue. Auto leccy doesn't have any other ideas but I am taking back tomorrow anyway.

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[ShortyNavros]

Other thing I noticed is the relay ticking doesn't start straight away, sometimes there is a good 4-5 seconds gap, even enough time for the glow plug light to go out. And that's when you try and start the car, then the glow relay starts ticking and the revs go real rough and it stalls. Also the tacho doesn't always bounce. Like today when it ****ed up after my hit of golf the relays were clicking but the tacho didn't bounce

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[Old.Tony]

I've stopped and looked at this thread a few times, thinking "no, can't help any more than has been already" but thought I might hav a go now.

If this is in time with the glow plug light going out, I wonder if there's an earth problem with the car stereo/instrument cluster? Easiest way to find out is to grab a decent piece of wire, clamp one end of it to the negative battery terminal and touch the other end to the stereo. If it works, the shared earth between the stereo and instrument cluster is the culprit, make a new earth to the stereo and be done with it.

Also, another possibility enters my mind. EGR will only make noise when it's commanded to. It can only be commanded to when the engine is running and it's above idle - my guess is that something is triggering the feed to the tacho (usually the CAS/CPS) and this is causing the EGR to trigger (that will make starting difficult). I wonder if the glows are turned off above idle by the ECM? This means that when the tacho is triggered, it flicks on the EGR, flicks off the glows, the tacho settles, the EGR flicks off, glows flick on and repeat.

So, how's the CAS/CPS cabling? Clean?

 

[ShortyNavros]

Crank angle sensor? I haven't even looked at it. I'll have to look at the FSM for it. Why would the stereo earth produce the symptoms I am having?

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[abouttogobush]

I've stopped and looked at this thread a few times, thinking "no, can't help any more than has been already" but thought I might hav a go now.

If this is in time with the glow plug light going out, I wonder if there's an earth problem with the car stereo/instrument cluster? Easiest way to find out is to grab a decent piece of wire, clamp one end of it to the negative battery terminal and touch the other end to the stereo. If it works, the shared earth between the stereo and instrument cluster is the culprit, make a new earth to the stereo and be done with it.

Also, another possibility enters my mind. EGR will only make noise when it's commanded to. It can only be commanded to when the engine is running and it's above idle - my guess is that something is triggering the feed to the tacho (usually the CAS/CPS) and this is causing the EGR to trigger (that will make starting difficult). I wonder if the glows are turned off above idle by the ECM? This means that when the tacho is triggered, it flicks on the EGR, flicks off the glows, the tacho settles, the EGR flicks off, glows flick on and repeat.

So, how's the CAS/CPS cabling? Clean?

 

[ShortyNavros]

Guys I think I fixed it. So I remembered one other time where the car wouldn't fire and the glow plug light wouldn't go out. It was when I was test fitting my socketed ecu to run rumpigs tune. Took my electronics guy three attempts before the glow light would extinguish and I could start the car. The previous two attempts he left dry joins and the glow light wouldn't go out and the car would just kick over and over without starting. So I am thinking of these joins may have come apart again or there is poor connection. Will run the stock ecu (just re installed it) tomorrow if it fires up from cold that is the culprit I would say

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