diff locks
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04SilverSTR
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Yeah so far it seems real good, just got to fix the transfer case now!
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good to hear you guys are loving the lokka.
i'm getting keen for one now.
how much are your transfer cases setting you back?, how big of a job to change over?
i'm getting keen for one now.
how much are your transfer cases setting you back?, how big of a job to change over?
04SilverSTR
Member
picked my case up for 380 delivered. just got a price from nizzbits and chains are $825
bryan
bryan
4x4 ST-R
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Did you end up just removing the T/case to get the chain? I've never done it before so I've got no idea.
4x4 ST-R
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So the 2nd hand Tcase contains the "new" chain? No need to waste $825 yeh?
04SilverSTR
Member
will swap the hole case. it is a risk but. the reason is once they start slipping they can damaged the cogs aswell and that blows the cost out.
bryan
bryan
RustyNav09
Member
No pick for electronic locker. Having mine fitted on the 28th June. Harrop Eaton ELocker. Bring it on. Then a test at lcmp on camp hill and maybe give telecom a run. Be one of 3 ifs vehicles and 5 solid axle patrols. Will be the only ifs with a locker bring it on
RustyNav09
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My mechanic is doing it for 1850 fitted. $100 cheaper then opposite lock etc. Will be great times once its fitted
4x4 ST-R
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They're good hey!? I've got one and I've got no complaints. I've heard plenty of negativity toward them, but only from people who haven't got a Lokka. Everyone I've spoken to just loves them.
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Well took me 3 days as i had to wait for parts, so actually hours would be 15 ish due to so much stuffing around trying to get the tolerances right.
if i had the right shims then 6hrs i reakon.
best case scenario if i had to do it again with a car hoist and gear box jack then.. 1hr tops.
if i had the right shims then 6hrs i reakon.
best case scenario if i had to do it again with a car hoist and gear box jack then.. 1hr tops.
I found this on another forum thread about diff lockers 4wd action I think I just copied & pasted
what he wrote. this guy seems to know what he's talking about
Locker Physics
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Hi All,
Have read through the Locker posts with great interest.
A lot of discussion on the mechanics, features vs.. drawbacks for each design, pros and cons, strengths and weakness etc.
My preference is to keep it simple, the more components the more issues you will have with any mechanical design.
One thing however that tends to get overlooked is the physics of what a locker does in a 4wd. Regardless of type:
Locked Rear / open front.
Good for applying power to the ground on inclines as the COG (centre of gravity) is towards the point of ground contact offering excellent traction with the right tyres. Biggest drawback is danger of over power with maximum traction and flipping the vehicle. The power being applied to the ground through the rear axel is creating a pivot point or fulcrum at the axel and wheels against which the mass of the vehicle is trying to be moved. If the incline is too great or the object is too big for the wheels to climb or rotate over the power will then attempt to rotate the mass (vehicle) around the fulcrum (axel).
Especially dangerous when open front is spinning up at full power and suddenly gains traction. > 50% of the energy is then immediately forced through to rear wheels with no slip.
For this reason I believe a single rear locker should only be used by experienced drivers.
Locked double.
As above with rear locked diff but advantage of having power distribution to all 4 wheels evenly. Rear locked can still force mass around fulcrum in extreme situations as it has no slip or relief. This is partly why a rock solid LSD should be left alone on the back of your Vehicle.
Locked Front / LSD or open rear.
Locked front diff is an excellent combination with a good LSD on the back. It is safer than rear locker as the power / torque is being applied to the ground at a much higher point relative to the COG. The effect of the front locker is to winch the vehicle up and over rather than pushing it hence you have a much lower risk of flipping than with a rear locker.
Rear wheels still have some slip through the LSD which is good as this also reduces the risk. Open rear may drain power away from front locked if free wheeling (energy takes the path of least resistance), simple to compensate for with the handbrake to create artificial traction / resistance. Power will then drive to the front as well as the back, don't forget to take the handbrake off like I did.
Conversely on a decline the front locker may under compression lock up cause the nose to dive and drive the trailing mass around the pivot point. Not as risky as incline as you can always accelerate the vehicle to pull the back down (have done this a couple of times myself, a bit like doing an endo on a bike, too much brakes and over you go, if you feel it going to far you back off the brakes and the back comes down.) You can not do this with a rear locker on an incline unless in reverse gear, most times you are in 1st or 2nd not reverse.
So for which ever locker you are fitting think through how they physically work with your vehicle type, diffs, suspension and driving skills.
My setup...
4wd systems Lokka in the front and a tight LSD on the back. My way of thinking is that this is the best and safest for the average 4wd'r, coupled with 2" of lift, a good set of tyres and you will go most places the big boys go at 1/4 of the cost.
Pro's - Low cost. Simple set up. Low maintenance. Strong. Safe. Makes for a very capable IFS 4x4.
Con's - Slight torque steer which you get used to. Slight understeer, again which you get used to and learn when to back off the pedal before the turn to free the drive.
Comparisons.
4x4 Action did a comparison on most available lockers which was essentially based around showing you have strong they where. Bottom line is that even the weakest Locker is stronger than most other drive components, you are more likely to break a shaft, a CV or even strip gears than to break the locker.
Location.
Front or rear think about use.
Type.
Think about cost, support equipment (compressor etc.) and maintenance costs.
Drive.
CV's, have broken one since the lokka install but due to water and dirt ingress which weakened the CV over time before she broke.
Driving.
Effect on your driving style. Level of your driving skills.
Whatever your decision, get one, have fun, stay safe.
That's got to be one of the best explanations I've ever read about lockers. good info there
what he wrote. this guy seems to know what he's talking about
Locker Physics
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Hi All,
Have read through the Locker posts with great interest.
A lot of discussion on the mechanics, features vs.. drawbacks for each design, pros and cons, strengths and weakness etc.
My preference is to keep it simple, the more components the more issues you will have with any mechanical design.
One thing however that tends to get overlooked is the physics of what a locker does in a 4wd. Regardless of type:
Locked Rear / open front.
Good for applying power to the ground on inclines as the COG (centre of gravity) is towards the point of ground contact offering excellent traction with the right tyres. Biggest drawback is danger of over power with maximum traction and flipping the vehicle. The power being applied to the ground through the rear axel is creating a pivot point or fulcrum at the axel and wheels against which the mass of the vehicle is trying to be moved. If the incline is too great or the object is too big for the wheels to climb or rotate over the power will then attempt to rotate the mass (vehicle) around the fulcrum (axel).
Especially dangerous when open front is spinning up at full power and suddenly gains traction. > 50% of the energy is then immediately forced through to rear wheels with no slip.
For this reason I believe a single rear locker should only be used by experienced drivers.
Locked double.
As above with rear locked diff but advantage of having power distribution to all 4 wheels evenly. Rear locked can still force mass around fulcrum in extreme situations as it has no slip or relief. This is partly why a rock solid LSD should be left alone on the back of your Vehicle.
Locked Front / LSD or open rear.
Locked front diff is an excellent combination with a good LSD on the back. It is safer than rear locker as the power / torque is being applied to the ground at a much higher point relative to the COG. The effect of the front locker is to winch the vehicle up and over rather than pushing it hence you have a much lower risk of flipping than with a rear locker.
Rear wheels still have some slip through the LSD which is good as this also reduces the risk. Open rear may drain power away from front locked if free wheeling (energy takes the path of least resistance), simple to compensate for with the handbrake to create artificial traction / resistance. Power will then drive to the front as well as the back, don't forget to take the handbrake off like I did.
Conversely on a decline the front locker may under compression lock up cause the nose to dive and drive the trailing mass around the pivot point. Not as risky as incline as you can always accelerate the vehicle to pull the back down (have done this a couple of times myself, a bit like doing an endo on a bike, too much brakes and over you go, if you feel it going to far you back off the brakes and the back comes down.) You can not do this with a rear locker on an incline unless in reverse gear, most times you are in 1st or 2nd not reverse.
So for which ever locker you are fitting think through how they physically work with your vehicle type, diffs, suspension and driving skills.
My setup...
4wd systems Lokka in the front and a tight LSD on the back. My way of thinking is that this is the best and safest for the average 4wd'r, coupled with 2" of lift, a good set of tyres and you will go most places the big boys go at 1/4 of the cost.
Pro's - Low cost. Simple set up. Low maintenance. Strong. Safe. Makes for a very capable IFS 4x4.
Con's - Slight torque steer which you get used to. Slight understeer, again which you get used to and learn when to back off the pedal before the turn to free the drive.
Comparisons.
4x4 Action did a comparison on most available lockers which was essentially based around showing you have strong they where. Bottom line is that even the weakest Locker is stronger than most other drive components, you are more likely to break a shaft, a CV or even strip gears than to break the locker.
Location.
Front or rear think about use.
Type.
Think about cost, support equipment (compressor etc.) and maintenance costs.
Drive.
CV's, have broken one since the lokka install but due to water and dirt ingress which weakened the CV over time before she broke.
Driving.
Effect on your driving style. Level of your driving skills.
Whatever your decision, get one, have fun, stay safe.
That's got to be one of the best explanations I've ever read about lockers. good info there
Last edited:
SG1
Member
Interesting read and makes sense, although I question how many apart from extreme 4wd peeps or a very severe incline that possibly shouldn be attempted that would be in a position to flip there vehicle backwards from a rear locker only, but then I guess it's possible.
04SilverSTR
Member
what a great read, and everything that he said about having the lokka in the front it right, but is all managable. no regrets with mone so far!
bryan
bryan
