Turbo trouble

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Any recommendations of links/phone no anyone?

I bought a cheapy off eBay but haven't put the time in to fit it so I'm still on the Tillix valve. I have the new hosing too, but I've been busy readying the caravan (including installing a diesel heater) for a trip to SA so I can work at The Bend Motorsport Park in August.

Nearly there. Just a few more things to do ...
 
Okay. Thanks.

I have one valid simple question.
My solenoid hasnt yet arrived,
Yet i must go do a 100ish km return trip tomorrow.

If i drive it how it is, babying it on back roads ..not the motorway.. plumbed up normally,
will i risk engine damage?

It gets up to about 10psi once nice and warm, and provides just enough boost to get up hills easily enough..
Though its working the motor harder i know.. hoping i can do one essential trip without any harm.

Then fit this thing when it arrives.
I will update the thread if i get success with the replacement.
 
I bought an expensive Repco stock brand bcs when first diagnosing my daughter's turbo issues - d.o.a. but didn't work that out until we actually replaced the turbo which was on the way out (bearings were going, restricting the max speed it would spool to, and vanes just starting to contact the housing).
 
Hey. That sucks. Yeh i bought a eBay one.. DOA. Stock was still good.

Sadly, i would bet $100 your repco one was made in the same factory as the ebay cheapies.

Doa says it all. Nice one Repco.

I would also bet $100 sadly i have done actual damage to my turbo bearings or vanes by the little piece of plastic going into it from the cold air intake plastic vac connector i accidentally leaned on & broke while leaning in to tighten new clamps on the hot pipe baffle to rid Nissan limp mode for the 26th time.

Such a small but what a ..
'mistaka to make-a' !

I would bet $800 theres nothing wrong with my stock bcs.

It was perfect!

I simply leaned on a stupid little plastic connector, snapped it & a brittle bit at the bottom fell into my turbo inlet.

Everyone says its solenoid etc etc but i think theyre wrong as i know what happened exactly.

And it was perfect before it.
Only problem i had was a slight baffle hot pipe boost leak making occasional limp modes.

I put a crapload of clamps on each side mod so it cannot leak boost.
3 clamps a side lol.

I can reach 5000 rpm foot to floor any gear now. Zero limp.

But sadly turbos performance is less than half what it should be because crud has got into it.

I would almost be super surprised if my new bcs on order even works, let alone solves the issue if its good,
As the bcs wasnt at fault.

I was at fault. 🤣🤭🤦
 
Mate I made a mistake, I took another look and the bleed from the BCS is to the air intake side (not the charged air pipe). My apologies. I have edited my post above.

If it helps you at all I tried disconnecting this vac line and blocking it with my thumb and the actuator rod lifts and holds on mine too.

I can provide some pointers on removing and replacing the actuator if you wish as I did mine earlier this year to solve an underboost/lag problem. I have also done a thorough clean of the hot side of the turbo to de-carbonise and free up the vanes. But the fact you are still getting mad boost when you connect the vac pump direct to the actuator suggests to me your turbo (incl actuator) is working well and the problem is its regulation by either the solenoid or ECU.

I agree that does not make sense from the perspective of the broken t-piece and plastic falling into your compressor intake. Perhaps the timing is pure coincidence?

I hope you find some joy when your new solenoid arrives.
 
Hey Chapster.
All good! Thanks for clarifying.

Yes please, if u wanna point me towards a good YTUBE TUT for pulling the actuator..

I can look this up myself, im just busy paying bills n boring admin, while i wait for my ebay BCS to turn up that's due today.. or soon.

I hope i get it this week.

Im on my second bottle of turbo cleaner to do the hot side.

No real changes however i had it slowly get up to 15psi for 1st time on freeway last night.

It isnt getting up to boost easily.

One hundred percent the problem started by hard plastic going into my turbo.

I think its possible it killed my bcs by overworking it as soon as this happened.

I will know when the new one comes.

I think if it isnt the bcs, maybe the cr
Plastic crud has gone thru the turbo & maybe reached actuator area.. has become not able to fully close down enough. Thats a theory.

What everyone needs to know is i had zero problem before the hard black plastic connector from the air intake chipped off & fell into the turbo.

No ifs or buts about it.
It hauled at 20psi 2 hours before this.

The only issue i had was a baffle hot pipe minor boost leak causing limp mode .

No one can get their head around crap going in the turbo caused this but that's what it is !!!

The bearings or vanes are being restricted, maybe even damaged.

I only hold 20 percent hope a new bcs fixes this.
 
I hear what you are saying. But if the vanes or bearing are restricted, how are you still able to to get 30psi plumbing the vac pump direct to actuator?

Or is it the case you think your top end boost is fine but at low RPM it's taking ages to kick in?

Here is a vid on replacing the actuator. See also @Scott52's helpful post here on tuning once reinstalled.

I replaced mine with the turbo still in situ. Remove heatshields. Undo fusebox and push down and of the way. Might have been a heater hose or similar from memory which needed to be pulled aside. Disconnect vac line from actuator. Most of it is pretty intuitive.

Main tips I would offer:

(a) with the two 10mm nuts on the underside of the actuator, use a flexible head ratchet spanner to undo the nut closest to the block, ideally one with plenty of teeth. I think mine has 72 teeth and I barely got 1-2 clicks each turn. Its slow going. Front one is comparatively easy.

(b) make sure you pop a container or something under the actuator rod when you remove the circlip holding the rod onto the control arm lever, both when removing and replacing. Those buggers love to fly away.
 
Easy. When i run the thing directly connected to the actuator.
The shown boost flying up to 30plus psi does happen..

But i think thatd hit 20-30+ psi at least twice as quick maybe 3-4x as quick if i didn't have this blockage drama.

Ie.. if the situation was normal itd probably overboost to 60 in seconds.
Get my drift?

My new solenoid just turned up.
I hope it is not gonna be a doa!

If its good, i still sadly expect to see my boost only going up to 10+ psi under heavy throttle once cars hot after 15-30+ of driving.

It seems stuck bad and lucky if i can make 3 psi under a fair bit of throttle until about 15-60 min of driving..
The obstruction kinda melts or improves & i can reach half the boost i an used to.. maybe 8-12 psi at accelerating quite hard.

Theres definately an obstruction in there as described.

My best hope is probably pulling the actuator and attempting to clean the area& refit.

Thanks so much for the info & link & if the solenoid fix proves to fix the issue in entirety today.. of course i will be stoked & update the thread accordingly.

I may need to replace the whole turbo! At the least the actuator.
If i pull this turbo apart & clear the crap that's likely sticking it, i think its in good condition otherwise.

It was performing excellent until the minute i broke the plastic vac connector and some of it fell into the front vane chamber
 
THREAD CLOSED !

Excellent news.
I fitted the new $25 eBay BCS.

Instantly fixed. Boost.
No need to pull turbo actuator, turbo etc.. I'm good.

I may do a ecu fuel reset before i drive home from the shops.

SO HAPPY AGAIN.

Some hints & tips for anyone out there experiencing similar or same.

*Do not EVER let anything fall into your turbo inlet vanes
*Should that happen, refer to this thread.. youll lose 3/4 your turbo ability to spin
*That may kill your BCS quick as well
*if that occurs, buy at least 1 new BCS immediately, the cheapest ebay ones can be fine, good as repco etc
*Buy Nulon Diesel Turbo cleaner for $20-30. Recommend more than 1
*Fill up 40 litres & add a full can
*Drive around
*U may wanna have a torque app open monitoring your boost or boost gauge fitted !
*All else fails run the turbo cleaner, drive around a little bit with the vacuum from the drivers side that normally plugs into your BCS ran straight to the actuator. (CAUTION)
*IF doing that, make sure to only drive locally, feather the accelerator & back off if your seeing above 25psi.
Don't allow yourself to hit 30plus.
*For me this seemed to clear obstructions i had & my turbo began to get better, at first i could barely reach 3psi. After a few goes doing this then switching back to stock proper vacuum setup, i could reach about 8, then 10, then about 12..then yest up to 15.
*I think i cleared this crud out of my turbo bearings 80-90 percent!
* Im still only seeing about 15 max, not the usual 20 on the brand new bcs so this indicates what i am saying is correct
*I think now i am fixed & after undoing negative battery terminal & standing on the brake pedal for 10-30 seconds.. applying the ecu and fuel reset trick (easier than pedal dance) my ecu will relearn my driving habits in a few drives.. i will drive mildly a few times first for best effect.
*Luckily i am fixed!!

I literally could have had to rip my turbo off & clean the crap that got in out of it.. i killed my bcs during this & i recommend if this ever happens to you, just go straight for a new bcs & fit the vacuums 1 by 1 also so u dont mix any up.. and do the negative battery disconnect & hold the brake to drain the battery 10second trick to reset your ecu and fuel habits just for good measure while your at it!

Happy driving!
Nav life !!!
 
THREAD CLOSED !

Excellent news.
I fitted the new $25 eBay BCS.

Instantly fixed. Boost.
No need to pull turbo actuator, turbo etc.. I'm good.

I may do a ecu fuel reset before i drive home from the shops.

SO HAPPY AGAIN.

Some hints & tips for anyone out there experiencing similar or same.

*Do not EVER let anything fall into your turbo inlet vanes
*Should that happen, refer to this thread.. youll lose 3/4 your turbo ability to spin
*That may kill your BCS quick as well
*if that occurs, buy at least 1 new BCS immediately, the cheapest ebay ones can be fine, good as repco etc
*Buy Nulon Diesel Turbo cleaner for $20-30. Recommend more than 1
*Fill up 40 litres & add a full can
*Drive around
*U may wanna have a torque app open monitoring your boost or boost gauge fitted !
*All else fails run the turbo cleaner, drive around a little bit with the vacuum from the drivers side that normally plugs into your BCS ran straight to the actuator. (CAUTION)
*IF doing that, make sure to only drive locally, feather the accelerator & back off if your seeing above 25psi.
Don't allow yourself to hit 30plus.
*For me this seemed to clear obstructions i had & my turbo began to get better, at first i could barely reach 3psi. After a few goes doing this then switching back to stock proper vacuum setup, i could reach about 8, then 10, then about 12..then yest up to 15.
*I think i cleared this crud out of my turbo bearings 80-90 percent!
* Im still only seeing about 15 max, not the usual 20 on the brand new bcs so this indicates what i am saying is correct
*I think now i am fixed & after undoing negative battery terminal & standing on the brake pedal for 10-30 seconds.. applying the ecu and fuel reset trick (easier than pedal dance) my ecu will relearn my driving habits in a few drives.. i will drive mildly a few times first for best effect.
*Luckily i am fixed!!

I literally could have had to rip my turbo off & clean the crap that got in out of it.. i killed my bcs during this & i recommend if this ever happens to you, just go straight for a new bcs & fit the vacuums 1 by 1 also so u dont mix any up.. and do the negative battery disconnect & hold the brake to drain the battery 10second trick to reset your ecu and fuel habits just for good measure while your at it!

Happy driving!
Nav life !!!
Glad you sorted it out
 
Glad you sorted it out
TILLIX VALVE & BOOST CONTROLLER MOD FUN
When my BCS s kept dying fitting the Tillix Valve was real cool. For few months.
When my clutch was slipping.. i mucked around with it...and its restrictor extra module i bought... in order to still get enough slingshot action from boost to get up the shops and work a few more times.

But after fitting lovely new clutch i was really restricted with my Tillix boost setup ...on spool up time was flat spotting, running Rich, or unburnt fuel on hills with too much boost and too restricted as well.

Playing with the two modules worked initially when i got it, i had a sweet spot.

Ok so fast forward ....
COULD NEVER in many hours get the Restrictor part to not spool up way hard too fast, hitting Full 30+ psi boost... or restricted too much.

I think either that parts just Sh*t really or could it have been the Tillix itself?

FLASH: I FITTED A MANUAL BOOST CONTROLLER IN PLACE OF THE RESTRICTOR PART 🤣🤣🤣 The way it worked perfectly is fitting a restricted 1mm t-piece for the Inlet with the spring and ball bearing inside the Controller & running a full size 3mm i think outlet T- Piece off the Controller going to the Wastegate or final outlet it went from the Tillix Restrictor (i forget to which) If anyones interested i will upload Pix & vid of it fitted & me revving it, my dash mounted boost guage going up to Max of about 23psi now, Tillix on Drivers side & Boost controller up back at Passenger side behind Turbo, running in harmony.

Went for a drive & i was GOLD immediately, boost is like stock but spools up syper strong, a bit faster than stock & hitting higher than stock at 23ish psi any gear accelerating.

Loving it
Was tromping up big highway hills increasing in speed and boost lile a slingshot & having to brake heavily to avoid plowing into cars up ahead i rapidly caught up to.

Sweet 4wd power, bugger all smoke, bugger all lag, and strong boost abd engine power running in symmetry.. for a change again.
 
TILLIX VALVE & BOOST CONTROLLER MOD FUN
When my BCS s kept dying fitting the Tillix Valve was real cool. For few months.
When my clutch was slipping.. i mucked around with it...and its restrictor extra module i bought... in order to still get enough slingshot action from boost to get up the shops and work a few more times.

But after fitting lovely new clutch i was really restricted with my Tillix boost setup ...on spool up time was flat spotting, running Rich, or unburnt fuel on hills with too much boost and too restricted as well.

Playing with the two modules worked initially when i got it, i had a sweet spot.

Ok so fast forward ....
COULD NEVER in many hours get the Restrictor part to not spool up way hard too fast, hitting Full 30+ psi boost... or restricted too much.

I think either that parts just Sh*t really or could it have been the Tillix itself?

FLASH: I FITTED A MANUAL BOOST CONTROLLER IN PLACE OF THE RESTRICTOR PART 🤣🤣🤣 The way it worked perfectly is fitting a restricted 1mm t-piece for the Inlet with the spring and ball bearing inside the Controller & running a full size 3mm i think outlet T- Piece off the Controller going to the Wastegate or final outlet it went from the Tillix Restrictor (i forget to which) If anyones interested i will upload Pix & vid of it fitted & me revving it, my dash mounted boost guage going up to Max of about 23psi now, Tillix on Drivers side & Boost controller up back at Passenger side behind Turbo, running in harmony.

Went for a drive & i was GOLD immediately, boost is like stock but spools up syper strong, a bit faster than stock & hitting higher than stock at 23ish psi any gear accelerating.

Loving it
Was tromping up big highway hills increasing in speed and boost lile a slingshot & having to brake heavily to avoid plowing into cars up ahead i rapidly caught up to.

Sweet 4wd power, bugger all smoke, bugger all lag, and strong boost abd engine power running in symmetry.. for a change again.
Probably a big gain back in Economy, which is a huge thing for me after months of blowing black or brown smoke, lag, bad or average performance, getting terrible economy when not having a decent run with bcs etc.
Was getting 200-300 to Full Tank,
probably get double or near that again now, more economy than that would be nice
 

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