2003 zd30 fuel pump issues maybe

[carsonk]

Hi all!
just chasing some help/advice/input!
So, my 2003 zd30 nav with 293k on the clock is having some issues, my mechanic is telling me my injector pump is on its way out but I'm finding some inconsistencies!
Now! Started a few months ago, car was driving fine one day and then all of a sudden my engine light came on and my car went into limp mode at about 2200rpm in every gear. I turned it on and off multiple times and noticed the duration of time my glow plug light came on was changing. I got it towed to RAC where they scanned it and got p0115 and p0208 codes, they told me it was a coolant temp sensor (they wanted to charge me $400 to replace it) told them to stick it and replaced the front sensor myself for $23 fixed nothing but oh well! My temp gauge has been behaving as normal too i'll add.
Now after all that and taking it to multiple mechanics without an answer up until a few days ago and being told its the fuel/injector pump with the p3 0073 code. The car is still running and driving fine most days.
I'm not entirely sure if it's the pump itself. I'm thinking it could be one or a combo of 3 things;
1. The wiring going to the pump (i hear its common for the wires to wear to exposure from vibration and heat)
2. Maybe my glow plug relay, car runs fine if light goes off after 4 seconds (which is most of the time), goes into the limp mode when it stays on for 8-10 seconds and limp when it goes off after 1-2 seconds.
3. Maybe my glow plugs are shot.

Wanting to avoid replacing the pump if possible or is that just wishful thinking?
Let me know if there's any ideas out there. cheers!
Thanks for coming to my TED talk

 

[tweak'e]

most of those codes are wrong.
common problem is a lot of scanners don't work properly with nissan consult system.
so first thing is to make sure you get the right codes otherwise your chasing your tail.
however its easy enough to read the flashing engine light. instructions are around here somewhere.

do you have a dual battery setup? or solar charging etc.

 

[carsonk]

most of those codes are wrong.
common problem is a lot of scanners don't work properly with nissan consult system.
so first thing is to make sure you get the right codes otherwise your chasing your tail.
however its easy enough to read the flashing engine light. instructions are around here somewhere.

do you have a dual battery setup? or solar charging etc.

Hey mate! Thanks for the reply! Yeah I believe all scans were done with OBD
Thought about buying a scanner from ECUtalk!

The engine light flashes at a steady constant pace so don’t know what that would mean!

I have a dual battery under hood and a independent battery with solar in/on my canopy!
Come to think of it, my secondary battery was bone dry the other week! I filled it with distilled water and as far as I know it’s only being charged by driving to and from work!

I think I saw a comment mentioning the dual battery system the other day! Do you think that could be part of the problem?

Thanks again!

 

[tweak'e]

someone had a problem a while back that was the dual battery/charging setup that was earthed to the engine/alternator.
all the sensors are relative to the earth of the engine and work in millivolts. so increasing the engines earth potential by millivolts absolutely screws with sensors.

check if the battery/solar charging are earthed to the engine/alternator. if so move it to the chassis.

 

[carsonk]

someone had a problem a while back that was the dual battery/charging setup that was earthed to the engine/alternator.
all the sensors are relative to the earth of the engine and work in millivolts. so increasing the engines earth potential by millivolts absolutely screws with sensors.

check if the battery/solar charging are earthed to the engine/alternator. if so move it to the chassis.

Thanks mate, I’ll take a look this afternoon! Might even pick up a new secondary battery just in case the one that was dry is buggered!

 

[dattorob]

i think replacing or reconditioning the injector pump is the last thing you do. I've read on these forums many times where the mechanic comes to this conclusion & they spend the money on the pump only to find the original issue still exists. It seems these pumps live a long and healthy life as long the electrical side feeding or controlling the pump itself is sound.

 

[Erick]

A good diesel reconditions place with Bosch diagnostics will give u a full report on ur pump. Has mine checked for about $100 not long ago

 

[Erick]

That was in vehicle

 

[carsonk]

someone had a problem a while back that was the dual battery/charging setup that was earthed to the engine/alternator.
all the sensors are relative to the earth of the engine and work in millivolts. so increasing the engines earth potential by millivolts absolutely screws with sensors.

check if the battery/solar charging are earthed to the engine/alternator. if so move it to the chassis.

Hey mate! Well the secondary battery is completely kaput! It’s also a discontinued type (typical) It’s earthed to the car body and not the alternator/chassis! Going to find a suitable replacement battery (got limited room to work with) and see how it goes!

 

[carsonk]

i think replacing or reconditioning the injector pump is the last thing you do. I've read on these forums many times where the mechanic comes to this conclusion & they spend the money on the pump only to find the original issue still exists. It seems these pumps live a long and healthy life as long the electrical side feeding or controlling the pump itself is sound.

The cable/plug behind the pump has some tension on it so I’m thinking it could even be worn through and maybe arcing out every now and then, would explain the inconsistent behaviour with dropping out! Drives fine for a while the with have a few random moments of playing up! not sure of the process of replacing the wiring!

 

[carsonk]

A good diesel reconditions place with Bosch diagnostics will give u a full report on ur pump. Has mine checked for about $100 not long ago

Honestly that will be my next move! I’d rather pay $100ish to find it’s something other then the pump instead of a quoted $4250 to change the pump and still have problems!