Adventures in Timing Chain.

[Aaron31]

9 times out of 10 when I start the D40, there is 4-5 seconds of distinctly unpleasant chain type noises emanating from the donk. I needed to know what was going on with a view to change it all out - so, I got to it. I used the guide written by Richard Stock, with the help of Darren Ball et al (awesome guide chaps - read it about 8 times) plus general information on the web plus the service manual. Note I am by no means a mechanic. I work in IT. This is by far the most 'complex' thing (overall) I have done on an engine. But broken down, step by step, (thanks to the guide) its relatively straight forward. How do you eat an elephant? One bite at a time.

You have read the comments/war stories about the crank bolt being tight and make absolutely no mistake - IT IS. I had a breaker bar + a section of the daughters netball ring/goal pole hanging off it - 2M easily. To hold in place, I had a crowbar wedged into the crank pulley, held in place by a ratchet strap lashing it to the chassis rail. To protect against something breaking, I packed that area in front of the engine full of rags. Do NOT underestimate the amount of force you are putting on these things. 1 socket later (do NOT use standard sockets - go and get an impact socket), a lot of cringing and grunting, a BENT crowbar and a whole lot of wondering if it was going to come off at all, it finally came loose. The bolt face and the pulley is galled, I can only assume because it was so dang tight. I am not looking forward to doing it up!

Yes its fiddly. Very fiddly. Pace yourself through it. Have someone with/as an extra pair of hands as well. There is nothing overly complex to it - use the information in the guide, on the web, plan and eyeball each step.

Make a point of putting as many of the bolts back in their holes as you take things off as much as possible - this is critical to avoid situations where you think 'now where the hell did that go'. Only managed to round off one bolt in the process because I decided it would be a good idea to turn the ring spanner with a hammer as it was coming off the head. It was one of the 3 holding on the Power Steering pump idler bracket -so luckily it didn't get in the way of anything. Another tip: just take the battery out. It makes it easier to take intake pipes out and also getting the radiator out.

I had everything off, ready to replace the chain etc etc in about 5 hours - which included all the grunting etc with the crank bolt - easily more than an hour on its own.

Next day, I was poking around and I STUPIDLY took the crank cog off without locking the scissor gear - knowing full well I had to, having checked a couple of methods not 10 minutes before!!! Massive, massive brain fart - think of the last time your stomach fell to your feet and multiply it by 10. The worst. Once I had finished mentally kicking myself in the head, I got to solving it. I recalled a video by the team at West Yorkshire Engine services on youtube where they recover this very situation. Based on that, I figured I could cajole the scissor gear back around to line up with the hole with it still in the car mind you - and I did. Then, the next thing was to turn the rest of the motion to proper TDC. This is slow because you are turning against the compression of the engine. I reckon at least an hour and 6-8 trips around, the planets aligned. The dots on the cam gear and casting, injector pump and key way on the crank all at the top. Then I had to get the crank cog back on, compensating for the helical cut to make sure the single dot on the balance shaft ended up between the 2 dots on the crank cog whilst still lining up the scissor gear because of the slop in the pin I was using. Its all back on. Thank F#c&.

I haven't swapped anything out as yet. The truck is a 2009 VSK D40 which has done 196K. It is a weekender - camping/touring/4x4ing etc only, living under a tarp the rest of the time. I had pricing for the duplex conversion kit (2 sources basically the same) - but I just could not justify spending what was 10% of the value of the truck on it - no matter which way I sliced it.

I had the tru-flow stock replacement kit (TCK111G) (made by BGA in the UK) - but it was the wrong one (bloody confusing description/note which you could read either way) - it does up to Sep 2006 VSK models only. Tensioners are different (flat back in the kit vs hollow back on the motor).

That aside and having got it all out in the open and after having had a good look at everything, I was very very surprised as to the condition - having expected to find the proverbial train wreck in there.

The plastic on the guides has hardly any evidence of wear on them anywhere at all. I am seriously wondering if it hasn't been changed at some stage before I got it. A feeler gauge between the links show things are well and truly within spec, as well as the protrusion of tensioners. The oil pump is much the same with the 'notch' which mates up to the crank pulley looking as crisp/sharp as the day it was machined.

Its apparent that the top tensioner (at least) may not be original which would back up the case for it being done previously. It has no part number stamped on it anywhere - which according to yd25.com.au, is a dead giveaway and known to give grief. Someone here may know 100% if that is the case.

So the initial plan was to just replace both tensioners with the genuine Nissan articles only. But then I thought it would be stupid of me not to just do the chains with their direct replacements while I have it all out like this. Replacing the guides however would be a waste of time - such is their present condition.

The other thing I am doing is putting on a genuine oil filter. In the words of someone else on this very subject, 'never again'.

So, I'm banking on a combination of dodgy tensioner and aftermarket filter. But to up my odds, I will do the chain as well.

Stay tuned for the next instalment - next weekend if all goes to plan!

 

[Old.Tony]

This is an excellent thread. I have the same car (almost 260,000km on mine though). Will be watching it intently.

I had similar noises what I thought might be the timing chain, turned out the side of my air box had come loose - induction noise at idle unfortunately makes a similar sound to chains rattling, especially to someone who's mostly deaf (me)!

 

[Aaron31]

Had a good chat with a chap at N1ss@n spare parts today - whilst getting prices for bits.

Of course, I left the bit of paper on my desk at work - but subject to some small adjustments either way, genuine article spare parts pricing looks something like this:
Both chains about $260 each (surprisingly).
Upper tensioner about $150.
Lower tensioner about $190.

So, just for those items it's a $900 investment, a bit better if you can get trade pricing.

That with guides and you will be looking at a very similar price to the aftermarket dual row kit. Consider that with the dual kit you get all new rotating components as well and as such, it suddenly looks like a more reasonable deal. Still a lot to spend, but more reasonable none-the-less.

We got talking about the markings on the tensioners and the theory around what's genuine or otherwise. It seems there is nothing in it. He very kindly grabbed the upper tensioner off the shelf for a look and there is certainly no part number stamping on the item and the marks that are on it sounded very very similar to the markings on mine.

It was also interesting in that he had would not have considered the oil pump to be an issue with these engines BUT he did have a couple of 'uncomplimentary' things to say about the timing works on the engines - which apparently has its heritage at Renault.

 

[jonney]

not sure if i would bother buying a timing chain kit from Nissan as you just don,t know where the parts were made. YD25 have excellent parts for the 2.5 litre navaras plus fitting a complete dual row kit gives great assurence of reliability and lasting.

 

[Old.Tony]

^ I'm with Jonney on this. I'd actually trust yd25.com.au (talk to Paul) rather than the local Nissan dealer. The tensioners supplied by yd25 are Nissan units - but you get a much better chain. There's no question the double-row kit would be stronger.

Part of the problem evidenced in the past is the tensioners wearing away and gumming up, failing to keep the chain tight. I don't know if that's a bad batch of springs in the tensioners or what. Some blame the oil filter choice and we had a thread on here that looked at oil filter choices combined with timing chain failures. The idea being that if the oil filter allows the oil to return to the sump overnight, when the engine cold starts in the morning there's nothing in the pipes to lubricate the timing chain as the engine starts so the chain dry-rubs on the tensioner guides, causing wear. We didn't get a definitive answer from that thread.

And yes, the engine was developed by Renault, who have been in partnership with Nissan for some time. That partnership has changed a little with the release of the Renault Alaskan which looks like a NP300 with Renault badging.

 

[jonney]

regarding the oil filter; i use the genuine nissan oil filter and there is something like a spring valve inside these filters that holds the oil until you losen off the filter a couple of turns. i found this out when i first changed my filter and just unscrewed it all the way in one go and oil went everywhere, if you undo the filter a couple of turns and leave it sit for a minute or two then you wont have oil dripping everywhere from the filter. not sure if the aftermarket oil filters have this spring assisted valve fitted.

 

[Czechmate]

I put the yd25.com dual row chain kit in my d40 a few years ago after the chain snapped.
Paul gave me the choice of genuine nissan made in japan chain, or iwis made in Germany chain
I went with the iwis chain, cost a bit more but holy hell it was solid. Have a google of iwis to see what I mean
Yes apparently the chains that go ping are a french made unit supplied by Renault
somewhere between Renault France and nissan Europe in spain the specs got bungled and its far too weak to hold

 

[Czechmate]

My input on the oil filter / timing chain scenario
I used only genuine filters and the recommended Penrite enviro oil in my d40
Timing chain snapped at 70,000k boosting up a steep hill
Still the earliest snapping ive heard of

 

[Aaron31]

OK - Friday night, and the new kit is in.

Once I got the rest of the timing kit out, I was able to have a good look at the tensioners and chains. Still next to no wear on any of the plastic on the guides, but what was interesting was the wear on the points on the back of the guides where the tensioner pushes. A decent amount was visible/evident - infact the hole in the end of the piston of the bottom tensioner had worn a nipple into the guide - but nothing overly concerning. Nothing of real note on the chains - apart from some apparent flatening in the inside edge of each of the links of the bottom chain from where it runs around the vacuum pump - not surprising.

I ended up going with the Engines Australia kit - single row, like for like replacement.
About $640 to my door - chains, tensioners, guides and also new crank seal (I already bought one!) and o-rings - which aparently suits the D22 as well.
Both chains are genuine Nissan as are the tensioners. The top chain and the bottom tensioner was made in Japan and everything else in Thailand.

The bottom tensioner was exactly the same.
The top tensioner was different. The original out of the car has a hollow in the back with a metal gasket. The part supplied was flat back and required no gasket. I wanted to make sure it was the correct kit and spoke to EA - this has apparently been a documented change in the parts line up by Nissan and I'm told this new one features a dual spring arrangement. I didn't let it pop to take a look! I also verified that the oil inlet hole is where it needs to be to get oil!

Everything went in nicely.
The new top tensioner exerts a much greater force on the chain than the old one did. I guess an effect of the dual spring setup. I am taking this as a good thing.

I am taking my time getting it back together - in fact, I have only gone as far as to get the new kit in and verify about 46 times where the dots are vs coloured chain links and what has been torqued up. Tomorrow comes the rest of the re-assembly and (hopefully) start. I do have some pictures which I will put up tomorrow night. Time for bed.

 

[jonney]

Aaron, if you want abit more info on the timing chain etc fitting plus all torque settings, google ; west yorkshire engine services. they have plenty of you-tube videos on how to fit the new chains etc etc. worth looking at.

 

[Aaron31]

Thanks Jonney - been all over those for a while now - they got me out of the poop with the scissor gear!

 

[Aaron31]

All done. It's funny how things seem to back together a lot quicker and easier than they were to get out - mind you, the whole process is thick with 'what ifs' running through your head!

The oil pump was a conundrum. That lower O ring leading to the pickup - you just don't know if it stays where you want it and where it needs to be! In the end, you just have to go with it - as there is no way to be categorically certain.

The crank bolt was OK in the end - I did it as per the book - to 75nm and then out. At this point I coated it in fresh diff/gear oil - I think this helped. Back in to 75nm and then 120 degrees.
I used same the rig I used to undo it - so with the (bent) crowbar and ratchet strap and just gave it 'what for' with the breaker bar and netball pole. To 90, and then another 30 - job done. Good.

The only other battle which followed was around a long bolt that goes in under the PS pump. It wasn't going in all the way and I was 99.999999% sure that was exactly where it went.
It bolts into the rear bracket of the PS pump and that had slightly moved (somehow) - thus the bolt not going in. Had to get that bracket loose to allow it to align so I could get it in.

Apart from that, there was a bit of cajoling with the radiator and condenser but that was it. Done. No 'spare' fasteners at all - even better.

Oil filter swapped, refilled with oil and then coolant. The moment of truth had arrived!!!

With the heart rate at about 250bpm - key to 'on' - everything lit up as normal. Cranked it. Nothing. Dead. No electric power. Gone. WTF!!!
At first I had visions of having left something to 'lock' the motion thus causing the starter to draw a million amps and kill something - but no - I had cranked it manually to verify the chains etc with no issues. WTF!

I then thought that because I had the battery out completely it might have just carked it completely on the spot as I had trouble getting anything to show on the meter at this point.
Quickly realised that all the blue anti corrosion gunk around the terminals was getting in the way, so took to it with some electronics cleaner and got it back on.

Take 2. Heart rate at about 260 now. To on, to crank, away she went. Noisy at the start (maybe 3 seconds) but quickly (far quicker than expected considering it was bone dry) quietened down.
Oil pressure light went off just as I went to look at it - again quicker than expected. O Ring in place - awesome. Still running. OK. Sounds OK, good. No fluids flowing into the floor? No. Good. OK let it run.
Spend a moment to gather one's self knowing it was running again!

I let it idle for a good 15 minutes getting up to temp slowly. All good. At that point was doubly relieved that the balance shaft seemed to be doing its thing as normal. Win.

Shut her down - time for a celebratory cup of tea and hot cross bun. To this point, it had been about 5 hours.

After that, cranked her back up, and backed out of the driveway under its own steam. Went for 40 min drive. Everything felt and sounded fine. One issue - the heater isn't.

Question: Where is the coolant breather on a 2009 model - because it's not where it is as per the 2005 manual.

Pics to follow when I work out how.

 

[Old.Tony]

Excellent news!

...After that, cranked her back up, and backed out of the driveway under its own steam. Went for 40 min drive. Everything felt and sounded fine. One issue - the heater isn't.

Question: Where is the coolant breather on a 2009 model - because it's not where it is as per the 2005 manual.

Necessarily it runs almost directly from the top of the radiator to the right hand side of the engine bay where the overflow bottle is. Mine dips to the holders on the top of the fan shroud and routes around inbetween the battery and the headlight then up to the bottle. Yes, mine's a 2009 model.

Pics to follow when I work out how.

It's not too hard to do. In the PC browser, below the box where you type your message are two buttons, one is "Go Advanced". Use that.

In the advanced screen, you have a section below the message box "Manage Attachments". This allows you to upload images to each post.

Alternatively, if you have a pic sharing site like Photobucket, you can upload the images there and just copy their "direct" links to insert the image directly into the post. Attaching them within the forum is easier than using an external site as well.

 

[Aaron31]

Right click the icons and select open link for the pics.

The netball pole.

On the crank bolt:

The bent crowbar!

Cam bolts and original tensioner/chain:

 

[Aaron31]

Right click the icons and select open link for the pics.

Crank gear on balance assembly:

Primary (lower) chain around vacuum pump and fuel pump:

Oil pump - suction top middle (facing away) and output the hole just left of centre:

Better view of oil pump outlet. At the top is the oil squirter:

 

[Aaron31]

Oil pump rotation mechanism - links into crank pulley:

Lower tensioner wear:

Bottom tensioner wear:

Original old school, upper tensioner:

 

[Aaron31]

The crank bolt:

Upper banana chain guide:

Where the top tensioner lives.

Upper and lower tensioner -original parts:

 

[Aaron31]

Upper chain, new in place:

Mid section, new in place. Note oil intake bottom center - no o ring in place:

Lower chain, new in place:

 

[Aaron31]

If anyone in Melbourne east (I am in Ringwood) is considering this, I'd be happy to provide morale support and guidance - just as someone who has (now) done it before. You'd need to provide cups of tea!

Drop me a note if you are keen.

A

 

[Aaron31]

Thanks for the info re the radiator Tony - I didn't even realize there were two connections into it!