accesory socket position

[Old.Tony]

so what your sayin is ditch the fused terminal and in its place run a 30 amp circut breaker close by in line ??????

If the fuse is part of the terminal that connects to the battery and that's the thing that is causing you so much grief, then yes it's a good solution.

Thermal circuit breakers like the 30A ones I have will heat up when too much current passes through them (sometimes a fair bit more than you'd want) and they will open up, breaking the connection and removing power from the fault. As they cool, they close again and if the fault still exists they will simply go open circuit again.

That's good in one way: you don't need to carry fuses. However, if this is a permanent "on" cable (doesn't matter if the engine is running or not) a fault in the cable could cause the battery to drain. A fuse prevents that, because once it blows, it's all over until you change the fuse.

Of course, you can always put an "ignition on" relay in, so that when the ignition is turned on, the relay activates and then allows power to flow through to the back (this is how mine works). This prevents any power drain while you're not there.

 

[RASCAL]

i all so on the weekend put the battery tray in the ute , i found a old battery at my mums that is the size i require abnd i tell you it all i bit tight in there and very close when closing the bonnet

ill put up some photos when i can get this dame thing to work lol

here you go ....

 

[RASCAL]

ANOTHER QUESTION

does any on put a switch in line so they can turn the fridge off at any time from in the cab or not or do they just run it full time , i know you can unplug
it if mnot using , just asking was all

 

[KraftyPg]

I don't bother, switching it off mid trip is just not something I require.

 

[Old.Tony]

Same here, if I want to turn off the power to the tub, I'm emptying the fridge first and I doubt my cruise control is good enough to let me rummage around in the tub for too long.

I already have a master switch inside - called an ignition key. My power only flows to the setup in the tub when the key is on.

There is a battery in the tub, which supplies the fridge - and I can quickly pop the terminal from that while stopped, if I absolutely had to - but there's no need for me to add more cabling, and another potential failure point, to the system - I really need it to be as reliable as possible.

 

[RASCAL]

HEY GUYS HOW ARE YOU ALL AGAIN

just one more question what path do you reckon would be the best to run the 6mm wire to the back of the ute ?

 

[Old.Tony]

Inside the chassis if you can, that's where it'd be most protected, but you can cable-tie it to other cables running down the rear if that's not easy.

The cable into my tub went in without drilling a hole: I ran the cable up from the rear and above the wheel guard (the metal plate immediately above the wheel). There's a gap between that and the inner skin of the tub. If you look up in the very corner of the inside of the tub you'll find an opening to this void - just make sure you put something over the metal lip to protect the cable.

 

[KraftyPg]

Personally I like the idea of running it internally under the door kick panels but many don't and I like to be different.

 

[RASCAL]

ok sounds good ill have a look when i knock of work i was just thinking of running it to the back of the ute and in the rear of the tail lamp but wasnt sure on what direction i should take it , did you protectit with the split sleeve tubing also

 

[KraftyPg]

I use heat sink where ever cables touch metal or there is joins but that's it.

 

[RASCAL]

well got a battery today that i am going to fit , had to get it down to make sure it all going to fit right its still tight but a lot better than i thought , obtima yellow top 48 amp hour 650 cca if i do my sums right that sould be able to run may engal i want for at an max out put of 20 hrs , i dont think it would run 20hrs at a max all the time so im thinking if im right it sould last at least 30 hrs at 1.5am . also now im thinking of running a lilltle 5w solor panel just to keep it topped up and make it last a lot longer . my dad rus oe of these he reckons having this makes the battery last even longer witch i think will be a big plus

Projecta

 

[RASCAL]

rascal, i have mounted mine in the panel that covers the left taillight, i took the light out a drilled a hole and mounted it flush (can take a pick if you like) but do yourself a favor and get on of these plugs for you engel, instead of a cig plug as the rattle out and turn you fridge off!
If you unscrew the cig end off your engel lead you will see 2 flat pins, these go into the above plug and it screws together!!

Bryan

any chance of a pic of this champ i looking at doing this but un sure of how to mount it in the tub

 

[RASCAL]

well got it all wired in on the week end looks great

now i have only one more question , i have opted to go with the engal plug aspan now what i want to know is on this pluge i has in line 2 10amp glass fuses is it can i take these out ( as i want to hide the cable in the fender to hard to get to if something goes wrong)and use the 30amp fuses that are on the projecta fused terminal or not i think it will be ok but i just want to ask ..

 

[Old.Tony]

well got it all wired in on the week end looks great

now i have only one more question , i have opted to go with the engal plug aspan now what i want to know is on this pluge i has in line 2 10amp glass fuses is it can i take these out ( as i want to hide the cable in the fender to hard to get to if something goes wrong)and use the 30amp fuses that are on the projecta fused terminal or not i think it will be ok but i just want to ask ..

You can, but there are risks. The cabling isn't quite up to continuous 30A, although it looks thick the inner conductor isn't and 30A will heat it up, possibly to dangerous (as in whoops, my car is on fire) levels.

Also, delivering 20A to the fridge will probably kill it - if something goes wrong, that 10A fuse is the saviour for the fridge, and given the cost of the fuse compared to the cost of the fridge, it's a no-brainer as to what action to take.

 

[RASCAL]

then why can you screw back on the cig fitting and use a normal 6mm wire and 30AMP fuses all very confusing >>>?????

 

[RASCAL]

not quiet getting it lol so much to think of what plug what wire much to do .. ilove it at the same time learning

 

[Old.Tony]

In the case of a dedicated Engel fridge cable, the fuse is there to protect the device, and is rated higher than the device will ever draw, allowing the cable to supply power under any circumstances to the fridge but also provide the best, fastest protection in case something goes wrong.

The higher the value of fuse, the more power required to make it blow - the more power flowing down the cable, the more damage it can do. Engel are protecting their own back and I'm suggesting that for the fridge itself, you do the same.

If you're using that cable for more than just the fridge, consider putting a 10A fuse in on the line heading to the fridge, and use the 30A as planned. Everything gets the protection it needs.

 

[mitch92]

Also depends if using 6mm auto cable, or 6mm cross-sectional area cable. Big difference in current carrying capacities between them

Mitch

 

[04SilverSTR]

any chance of a pic of this champ i looking at doing this but un sure of how to mount it in the tub

Will get a pic today if you still need one mate

bryan

 

[will]

Also fuses can withstand twice their rated value for 6 seconds, so if you were to use a 30amp fuse for the engel & it did develop an internal malfunction that wasn't a dead short it could be delivered up to 60amps for a short period. That could do all sorts of damage to it. You've come this far without taking any shortcuts so stay on track & use the recommended value fuseable links.