09 D22 dual battery setup

[mitch92]

Well just to revive an old thread

My one MUST have some form of seperation. With both batteries connected if I remove driver side positive it drops all power to car, radio turns off etc. even though passenger side is still connected.

I got no idea what's goin on with it.

 

[Robski]

Well just to revive an old thread

My one MUST have some form of seperation. With both batteries connected if I remove driver side positive it drops all power to car, radio turns off etc. even though passenger side is still connected.

I got no idea what's goin on with it.

Does it have a solenoid? If so I think the second battery is only connected when the car is running and the solenoid detects charge??

Cheers Rob

 

[mitch92]

It is still factory set-up. Owned since new and never been changed.

Can't see any solenoid etc?

 

[bods]

How's the voltage look on the battery? It might be dying... There's no reason that should happen if both batteries are fully charged...

 

[mitch92]

Voltage is fine on both.

 

[maulbeagle]

yeah I found the same thing with mine.
when you disconnect the main battery by loosening the battery clamp, the lugs that go to the car power come loose from the lugs that go to the battery (and the other battery) so the car loses power.
this is all from memory from a few years ago but you should find if you hold the lugs tight they will reconnect and the car will be powered from the second battery.

 

[andr00]

I think the twin battery system on new D22's is a 24volt start only

 

[RustyNav09]

Andr00= it's a 12v dual battery system. The batteries are wired in parallel not in series/sequence. 24volt will have the d22 up in flames. I have removed the front passenger battery and have a N70zzld battery fitted in the driver's side with no dramas to date

 

[happy john]

It's supposably to give you more cranking capacity in -0 conditions. I had to remove mine on the passenger side due to the huge intake on the Safari snorkel. It started fine on one and as Rusty said just wired in parallel.

 

[Ben54b]

Ok guys I am really sorry to add to this thread as I now feel like a dunce

I have a 2010 with the factory dual batts. I have read this thread and am in the process of reading again. Now my issue is that after four years of dutiful service my stock batts are not liking to start in the mornings. They still start after parking for the day but need to be replaced.

Now the issue. What the heck to replace with. Every battery shop I have spoken to says that I must replace like for like. My mechanic insists that if they have put duals in it must be for a reason and that if I replace I will likely blow a computer system down the track. To me all this sounds like horse dung. Isn't a battery a battery and as long as I meet with the cca and ah requirements I will be sweet. When I mention that I know of numerous guys running singles I am told that these are potential electrical time bombs.

Now I don't like being told not to modify. I suppose my concerns are that if I go to an n70zz in my standard truck is it going to be too close to my egr pipe causing heat stress on the battery itself ( haven't blocked it yet). Is this battery going to be sufficient to run the vehicle and my stereo until I get a deep cycle or agm down the track for the other side. How do I actually seperate them. Basic red arc style auto isolator or do I wait and get a dcdc charger. And do I really need the second, it is literally for my stereo and a couple of 12 v plugs. And if it's decided that I do need the second battery, do I need to go up to the bigger cranker or would the stock handle the starting duties just fine. If I go a second battery I would probably run all accessories off it including interior lights, head unit amps etc. down the track I also want to add a battery and inverter setup to my work trailer, or should I fit all this to the car and just leave the trailer with an Anderson plug to run off the aux under the hood.

So sorry about the dreadful layout and million questions but I'm at work on my phone. I can re edit at home tonight if I have offended any grammar nazis . I just like to research and attempt to get it right first time rather than wasting money on batteries I long term don't need. Any questions people need answered to help please ask.
Ben

 

[RustyNav09]

Lol another dual battery question. Firstly go give your mechanic a swift kick to the genitals. My mechanic was the opposite. as in he said the dual starter setup was overkill. this led to the removal of the passenger side and an upgrade to the starter side. I used a Amaron HiLife N70ZZ battery and haven't had any issues for a couple years now. As for isolating I chopped the positive lead and put a heat shrink cap on the end and electrical taped it.

If your only running minor extras and not talking about big amp draws(fridge) from the battery then maybe a optima yellow top would be sufficient. Made for starting and deep cycle duties it could be what your after.

Rusty

 

[Ben54b]

Taa rusty. I knew another battery question would bring some amusement. I'm seriously looking at an n70 size just not sure which one. How much trouble did you have with the loom in the way. My main issue with the bigger batt size is heat from the egr pipe. Or is this a bit of a non issue.

 

[RustyNav09]

My egr is blocked. I still used a abr sidewindwr thermal battery shield around my battery to keep things in check. The wiring loom against the left hand inner guard squished up against the guard without issues aswell. Wasn't hard to get in and all cables were long enough to reach to the terminals

 

[Ben54b]

Taa mate. Super charge gold 810cca. 36 month warr for $199 ordered and picking up this arvo. Might finally get that egr done. But I'll make sure I start a new thread.

 

[RustyNav09]

Good stuff mate. I found out the bursons at Brown's plains(depending on your location) do the n70zz truck batteries for $99 I think.

Rusty

 

[Ben54b]

Damn that's cheap

 

[Old.Tony]

Exactly what Rusty said. If you cut the tie between the two batteries, you can stick an AGM/Gel/DC battery in the aux spot and put a big cranker like you bought for the starter.

The car was fitted with dual batteries to provide extra cranking capacity in cold weather (not necessarily for the Australian market). Your car needs about 550A to crank it over, so any battery exceeding that will do.

Once you separate the batteries, you then need to find a means of charging the aux battery. Isolators work well, as does something spiffy like the C-Tek D250S. You could even hook up a solar panel + regulator to it - if the solar panel was on the roof, or the canopy, I'd run cables direct from the panel into the engine bay then have the regulator in there. If you get teh D250S, you won't need a regulator.

 

[Ben54b]

5:20pm




Slightly bigger

 

[Ben54b]

Is there anything tin snips can't do

5:50 pm

Not much of a gap. Might need that egr blank and some kind of heat shield.

 

[Ben54b]

Secondary battery out

Positive terminal

Battery terminal unbolted and bent straight

4x glue lined heatshrink on

Positive and negative cable ties out of way.

Woo hoo beer time.

Wife and kids just got home no beer for Ben.