It might not be the right gasket, depending on the work done. The manual describes a technique to measure the piston's protrusion in order to use the correct thickness gasket. The technique, copied from the manual (page 240):
a. Set piston at a point close to TDC.View attachment 37496
b. Set the dial gauge at the location as shown in the figure. Turning
crankshaft gradually, set the gauge scale to “0” where the piston
protrusion is maximized.
c. Move the dial gauge stand so that the tip of dial gauge can contact
cylinder block. Read the difference.
d. Measure two points from each cylinder in order to obtain each
mean value of them. Choose a properly thick gasket corresponding
the highest number of the four values.
It then has a table for choosing the right gasket. I'll summarise this below (and check it to make sure I've not made a typo):
Protrusion in mm / gasket thickness / notches or cutouts
0.230-0.255 / 0.900 / 0
0.255-0.280 / 0.925 / 1
0.280-0.305 / 0.950 / 2
0.305-0.330 / 0.975 / 3
0.330-0.355 / 1.000 / 4
0.355-0.400 / 1.025 / 5
Cylinder head bolts should be tightened to 39.2Nm (29ftlb) in the order shown:
View attachment 37497
The process for new headbolts is to tighten all bolts to 39.2Nm in order, then add a further half turn (180 degrees) to each bolt (again, in order). Loosen each bolt in order, then re-tighten to 39.2Nm. Having done that, in order tighten each bolt another 90 degrees (one quarter turn) and then, in order again, tighten each bolt another 90 degrees. This completes the cylinder head bolt tightening task.
You now have to measure one more thing (I'll post this directly from the manual):
4. After installing cylinder head, measure dimension from the front end surface of cylinder block to that of cylinder head.
Standard : 23.53 - 24.07 mm (0.9264 - 0.9476 in)
* If out of the standard, check fitting of dowel pins and cylinder head.
You'll have at least some of that info already, but I thought it good to put it all in here in case someone else is reading it.