EGR mod on d40

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Hi all, i spoke to my mechanic about the EGR blocking when I had my 40k service. I asked what he thought, his reply was "don't wanna know you if you do it"

He said Nissan put the EGR on the engines after the 3.0TD in the earlier D22's were melting pistons. As for the soot going into the engine, the engines are meant to get periodical carbon cleaning done on services.

I know a lot of people have done it with no dramas, but they've obviously done it for good reason so I'm gonna leave mine on. In saying that, I average 8-8.5L/100km so I'm really not complaining about effeciency, but the getting rid of the bit of boost lag woudl definitely be nice!

Then IMHO your mechanic hasn't told you the facts. The EGR was in engines long before the 3.0ltr TD in the patrol and D22s - indeed it was in my 2.8tdi Patrol. It was one of the very first emission control measures fitted to engines and for the most part was done as an afterthought....newer engines notwithstanding. Blocking the EGR stops the gunk from the diesel exhaust being fed back into the inlet manifold. Blocking the EGR simply stops this crap building up in the inlet side of the engine. I will also prevent oil mist pooling in your turbo. HOWEVER....if you have a D40 post 2012 I believe that the ECU is now programmed to look at this feature and you could strike some issues. I've heard that some folks have drilled a small hole in the blanking plate to stop the engine going into limp.
 
yeah, egr came out on jap diesels back in the late 80's early 90's. had egr on petrols back in the 70's.
afaik theres no "periodical carbon cleaning" done under warranty or factory service.

might pay to find a mechanic who knows what hes talking about.
 
+1 on the previous 3 posts. The mechanic in question knows some of it, but not the whole picture.

Long story short: the EGR is a combustion dampening device designed to reduce greenhouse gas emissions.

The entire idea behind EGR is rather simple and it's the very reason why we block it. Normally (without EGR), combustion occurs and ALL of the fuel is burnt completely, high temperatures (= greater expansion = greater downforce = more horsepower). The side-effect of the higher temperatures is the creation of oxides of nitrogen. Remember the air on this planet is (roughly) 79% nitrogen, 19% oxygen and 2% other gases, so there's lots of nitrogen around and we can't avoid that (cheaply). Oxides of nitrogen (NO, NO2, NO4) can increase the 'greenhouse' effect which as the name implies increases the average global temperature = global warming.

The "answer" to this was to force the engine to combust the fuel at a lower temperature. Since the exhaust gas is fairly low in oxygen content and mostly inert in a combustion sense, introducing exhaust gas into the combustion chamber effectively dampens the combustion process, reduces the combustion temperature and neatly avoids the higher temps where nitrogen oxides are created = end of problem (mostly).

There are still two instances where the EGR valve will close - at idle and at full throttle. If you really wanted to effectively fix the problem you'd make sure the EGR was introduced at full throttle too, but I guess that's why we also have catalytic converters (CATs). These devices sit in your exhaust and, when a reductant (like a catalyst) is introduced to the CAT, it will capture and convert about 15% of the oxides of nitrogen that would normally flow through.

The reductant has to be a hydrocarbon and there are currently three types of reductant in use. Petrol in petrol cars, diesel in diesel cars and adblue (which is just piss with food dye and some other shit) mostly in diesel cars. Adblue is injected into the exhaust stream just in front of the CAT. Some engines have fuel injectors in the exhaust manifold (like the STX-550) and others (like mine) open the injector momentarily when the exhaust valve is open (during the exhaust stroke) allowing the unburnt fuel to flow out the exhaust and land on the CAT to do its work.
 
Extra heat?

Hey all.
I've been watching this thread for quite some time: biding my time till my warranty runs out...couple of weeks to go! I am very keen to get the mod done as I can see the advantages of keeping the engine clean but just curious from the last few posts about the heat issue...
If the mod increases the temp of the combustion, is there a chance of burning up/damaging the top of the piston or associated parts?

You guys rock!
Gos
 
I've also been reading and wanting to know more and why it was on the car.
You have just answered the questions I wondered about Tony. I'll now get onto eBay and buy a set with confidence....., well,more than earlier.
Thanks guys.
 
Have just fitted blanking plate on the drivers side, just wondering would there be any issues with the soot n shit building up into motor or would blanking plate be better on passenger side where it can be cleaned out of the pipe or should I just go back to pissing in the wind.
 
OK thanks Old Tony thought i would ask the question not that mechanically minded, should of listened to my ole man years ago when he trying to show me diesel motors but no not me always off with my mates.
 
Hi all has anyone had any dramas with blocking off the egr on the 2012 st models or will they throw a code if there blocked off. cheers sam
 
Go back and read the last few pages I remember members with the newer 140kw engine (2012 ST) having issues and having to drill a small home in the centre of the blank plate so as to not throw a code.
 
I have a september 2012 D40, ive done around 3000kms with the egr blanking plate and no issues. If it throws up an error code eventually i will remove and put a small hole.
 
I've got a sept 12 model and mine was fine for a few thousand kms then recently it started going into limp mode, the torque app fault code was "egr temp bank 1". I dunno if its the hot weather we have been having lately just pushing temps over or not but I have drilled a 4mm hole in the plate today and will test tomorrow I reckon it will get blocked up in no time though there was a fair bit of soot built up on the back of the plate after 4000kms.
 
I've got a sept 12 model and mine was fine for a few thousand kms then recently it started going into limp mode, the torque app fault code was "egr temp bank 1". I dunno if its the hot weather we have been having lately just pushing temps over or not but I have drilled a 4mm hole in the plate today and will test tomorrow I reckon it will get blocked up in no time though there was a fair bit of soot built up on the back of the plate after 4000kms.

After 300kms today it went into limp mode 3 times with the hole drilled in the plate, looks like the plate is coming out......
 

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