DPF and Cat Deletion in a D40 Series 2 and 3 Diesel Auto – No White Smoke
- Thread starter Bosshog
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Bosshog if you are running a dpf delete pipe why the need for the pressure differential tubes to be connected together?
I had been white smoke free for a couple of months after fitting an extension to the o2 sensor.
Dam white smoke has come back.Covered a whole intersection in smoke in Melbourne.I have cleaned the sensor and installed a stainless sleeve over sensor.EGT,s have dropped and seems to have more power.Maybe the boost has increased and trying to make more o2 in exhaust. Would love to try a an ecu from a manual.
I had been white smoke free for a couple of months after fitting an extension to the o2 sensor.
Dam white smoke has come back.Covered a whole intersection in smoke in Melbourne.I have cleaned the sensor and installed a stainless sleeve over sensor.EGT,s have dropped and seems to have more power.Maybe the boost has increased and trying to make more o2 in exhaust. Would love to try a an ecu from a manual.
There isn't a need. You can just connect them up into the delete pipe without any issues.
I was just attempting to show an alternative - that being if I did this again I'd just connect the tubing together and not even worry about plugging them into the delete plug.
Yep it is not a perfect science and if I'd the answer I'd let all know. Manual ECU won't work as the ECU controls the auto tranny. -
There isn't a need. You can just connect them up into the delete pipe without any issues.
I was just attempting to show an alternative - that being if I did this again I'd just connect the tubing together and not even worry about plugging them into the delete plug.
Yep it is not a perfect science and if I'd the answer I'd let all know. Manual ECU won't work as the ECU controls the auto tranny. -
But if you have the sensors conected to the tubes surely the sensors will be "sensing" everything going on in the delete pipe. If the tubes are conected together then there is nothing to sense? Or is there more to it than that??
Mal
PS I still haven't closed mine off yet.
Correct there is nothing more to it. by joining them up both the front and rear sensors have to measure the same pressure and that is exactly what you want them to be recording - the same pressure.
Got it...
Now are we better of joining the tubes at the top near the unit or (because it may be easier to get to) at the bottom near the sensors? I would say top as the longer the pipes the more air space to fill eg; hot air expans thus creating more pressure. The shorter the tube the less to fill.
I think I just answered my own question!!!
I need a lie down.
Mal
Now are we better of joining the tubes at the top near the unit or (because it may be easier to get to) at the bottom near the sensors? I would say top as the longer the pipes the more air space to fill eg; hot air expans thus creating more pressure. The shorter the tube the less to fill.
I think I just answered my own question!!!
I need a lie down.
Mal
Hello iam from Greece and i have navara 140 kw 2.5 tdci model 2011 . i put one chip in my car 6 months and i have n't problem . Now in the last 1 month i have problem about sensors 1 bank1 (2-3-4) . when i push the nav go to the limp mode and the code fault is (P247A - P2478-P2479) gas temperature out of range . Why now ? and have any else the same problem? thaink you .
Bluenavara
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Theo,
While you should have posted your question in a new thread in the D40 engine section,
I think your fault code is actually P1272 FUEL PUMP or P0192, P0193 FRP SENSOR , which is common for a fuelling chip turned too high, ie fuel pressure in the rail goes so high that the spill valve opens as a safety measure.
I bet the weather/temperature has changed quite a bit since your first trouble free runs, and now (especially when it's really hot), the system plays up.
Just turn the settings down a bit, but keep in mind that this may still happen once or twice in the future.
While you should have posted your question in a new thread in the D40 engine section,
I think your fault code is actually P1272 FUEL PUMP or P0192, P0193 FRP SENSOR , which is common for a fuelling chip turned too high, ie fuel pressure in the rail goes so high that the spill valve opens as a safety measure.
I bet the weather/temperature has changed quite a bit since your first trouble free runs, and now (especially when it's really hot), the system plays up.
Just turn the settings down a bit, but keep in mind that this may still happen once or twice in the future.
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Hello the chip is (racechip) and when i put the chip i put out the presure valve and i put in 1 slim in the valve . 6 months i setting the chip and my nav go very very good . Now 1 month in Greece is summer and we have hot days and when push my car i have all ways imp mode . I go to the dealler NISSAN and they find thsi fault codes (P247A-P2477-P2478) GAS TEMPERATURE HIGH OUT OF RANGE . The dealer say because the days hot and the outside temp is 38 kelsius the nav go to the limp mode for savfe .
Bluenavara
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I think your settings are too high even for the shimmed pressure relief valve. As you're going into summer what's happening is just what I discribed earlier.
The error codes you mentioned are not in the d40 manual, it seems that the scan was done with a generic code reader rather than a Consult II or III.
The other type of error you could get is for high fuel temp: P0182, P0183 FUEL PUMP TEMPERATURE SENSOR, also linked to your high rail pressure.
I still think you need to turn your racechip settings down.
The error codes you mentioned are not in the d40 manual, it seems that the scan was done with a generic code reader rather than a Consult II or III.
The other type of error you could get is for high fuel temp: P0182, P0183 FUEL PUMP TEMPERATURE SENSOR, also linked to your high rail pressure.
I still think you need to turn your racechip settings down.
The dealler do the diagnost test with new Consult because my new model navara not diagnost with the old consult . the new consult find the codes fault (P247a-P2477-P2478) . I put the chip settings down and i have the same problem . I put out the chip and then my car have the same again . The dealer the first time when i say my problem they think is the problem about the P1272 because the navara 2009 has this broblems and test it with old consult . When they put the old consult cant run in my car and then put the new consult and then find this codes .
I'm looking at the DTC list for my model and I think it's 1147 in ours, which is a Heated Oxygen Sensor Bank 1 out of range.
This is usually caused by one of these:
* a loose or dirty connection
* a fault in another heated oxygen sensor
* fuel pressure too high
* fuel injector fault
* intake air leak
The last one is important. If there's a leak AFTER the MAF sensor (which is just outside the air filter) then the car's computer will not know how much air is getting in. This will make the calculation for how much fuel to use to be wrong. With the wrong calculation, the output of the engine will be different to expected and thus you get this error.
So, you can try these things:
* turn down the chip
* check for a loose connection to turbocharger intake, or a split in the tube there
* have Nissan check the "HO2S2 HEATED OXYGEN SENSOR" and make sure it works
* throw some injector cleaner in the tank and go for a big drive
Good luck!
This is usually caused by one of these:
* a loose or dirty connection
* a fault in another heated oxygen sensor
* fuel pressure too high
* fuel injector fault
* intake air leak
The last one is important. If there's a leak AFTER the MAF sensor (which is just outside the air filter) then the car's computer will not know how much air is getting in. This will make the calculation for how much fuel to use to be wrong. With the wrong calculation, the output of the engine will be different to expected and thus you get this error.
So, you can try these things:
* turn down the chip
* check for a loose connection to turbocharger intake, or a split in the tube there
* have Nissan check the "HO2S2 HEATED OXYGEN SENSOR" and make sure it works
* throw some injector cleaner in the tank and go for a big drive
Good luck!
Thaink all for answers .
* I turn down the chip settins and nothing .
* I clean the maf in the NISSAN dealer and nothing
* I check the turbo intake coctors and nothing
* maybe the sensors have somw problems because sadenly i have the problems
THAINK ALLS
Bluenavara
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Theo,
There still something not right with the DTC code translation to the actual fault.
Specifically, on a 2.5 DCI there should no reference to "bank 1" or "bank 2" as this is not a V engine.
So trying to work out what the fault is, remains somewhat speculative.
If we are able to rule out:
-too high rail pressure;
-too high fuel temp;
-injector troubles (P1268-P1271);
then I'd look into:
-the suction control valve on the IP;
-sensor(s) in your CAT/DPF.
There still something not right with the DTC code translation to the actual fault.
Specifically, on a 2.5 DCI there should no reference to "bank 1" or "bank 2" as this is not a V engine.
So trying to work out what the fault is, remains somewhat speculative.
If we are able to rule out:
-too high rail pressure;
-too high fuel temp;
-injector troubles (P1268-P1271);
then I'd look into:
-the suction control valve on the IP;
-sensor(s) in your CAT/DPF.
I go today in NISSAN .The dealer NISSAN in my city call the center technical NISSAN team in Greece and they say because my Navara is new model (2011) have some new fault codes . In Greece navara 2011 has first time DPF filter . They say because the sammer is too hot maybe when the car push it go to the limp mode . Mast be wait the winter and when i have the same problem they change the sensors because the car is new and has garandy. ( my car has 25.000 klm and i put the racechip when car has 1.000 klm . I have n't any problem and i push the car a lot of times because all the klm are in national roads .)
My 2009 auto D40 also has a DPF and we've driven it up the middle of Australia on the Stuart Highway towing a caravan in 45C heat and stopped by a salt lake (photo below). Not a single sign of any issue with the engine at all.
The common things we've seen causing the engine to go into limp mode are:
* MAF sensor obstruction/failure
* Turbocharger overboosting
* DPF regeneration unable to complete
Just on that turbocharger, I wonder if yours is causing the issue. If the actuator is misbehaving, causing too much boost, you'll hit limp mode every time you put your foot down (chip or not). Might be a good idea to have the turbocharger vane actuator tested. It's a small (5-6cm) circular device that sits on top of the turbocharger. There were some issues with the actuators on the 140kW engines, because I think they changed from vacuum-controlled actuators to electronic.
The common things we've seen causing the engine to go into limp mode are:
* MAF sensor obstruction/failure
* Turbocharger overboosting
* DPF regeneration unable to complete
Just on that turbocharger, I wonder if yours is causing the issue. If the actuator is misbehaving, causing too much boost, you'll hit limp mode every time you put your foot down (chip or not). Might be a good idea to have the turbocharger vane actuator tested. It's a small (5-6cm) circular device that sits on top of the turbocharger. There were some issues with the actuators on the 140kW engines, because I think they changed from vacuum-controlled actuators to electronic.
Hello my navara has electronic vacuum-controlled actuators . How i tested the turbocharger overboosting ?
It's a job for Nissan. You could put a boost gauge on, but you'd be better off getting Nissan technican to connect a CONSULT-III device to the OBD port and take it for a drive and make it go into limp mode. The CONSULT device should record the boost levels at the time of failure.
