DIY Timing Chain

[nuckin futs]

after fitting a new timing chain they tell you to do 2 complete turns forwards and backwards to make sure it turns freely

 

[myoldhk]

Could be when the (hopefully) new tentioner went on the gasket was put back on and the right way so holes align up.

 

[Diesel Marks]

Thanks for your help guys. It turns out it was out a tooth. Here is some tips for new players below!
My symptoms were: Once engine was warm start ups would rattle for 2-5 seconds then go away.
Turned out to be the duplex timing chain and tensioner. (169k on the clock).
Quiet as a mouse now! Better then when I bought it.

Navara d40 yd25 Taiwan engine. Rattle noise after camshaft chain and tensioner replaced.
When changing the chain there are two points that should not be overlooked.
1. make sure that the new tensioner is primed with oil before fitting. This way it will not take up to 2 min to prime.
2. When setting the no1. Piston to TDC, do not rely on the cam marks for TDC of the crank, particularly if the chain is quite worn. Remove the electronic injector plugs and no1 glow plug.
Have someone crank the eng in short bursts with the starter until you hear compression out of the glow plug hole. Place a length of 2-3mm wire in hole until it contacts the piston. Have someone manually turn the crank clockwise until the piston comes to the top or just past (mark the wire) turn the crank backwards until the wire goes past tdc slightly and mark again. Now turn crank until you get between the 2 marks on the wire, mark the crank pulley and casing as TDC. Now turn the crank anticlockwise ¼ turn then turn clockwise until the pulley and case marks line up, this is TDC. Now check where the cam timing marks are they should be spot on or just out a bit if the chain is worn. Fit the new chain using the correct Cam timing marks and your TDC marks.

Cheers

 

[myoldhk]

Good stuff at least you found problem.

 

[camo.b]

Stripped it down again to re-goop leaky spot around one of the bolt hols on the primary timing cover.
Left radiator in, coolant and oil in. it is possible to do, but space is bit more limited to do the conversion/ changeover of timing chain. what I did get is a 75nm and 120deg turn on the crank bolt and lucky I have strong legs, arms no good to get this turn.

What I did discover is that the gasket goop after a week was actually still wet and didn't set. so im trying a different brand.

Any tips on that 75nm and 120° im just doing a front crank seal and sure im going to break somthing and loose some teeth

 

[bods]

A big frickin breaker bar and a pipe to put on the end of it would be my suggestion...

 

[camo.b]

Ive got a 1m pipe on the end of the bar now....going to undo it...lube the bolt face and find some more pipe...

 

[bods]

Are you still trying to crack it, or put it back on?

Is the pulley staying still while you are tightening it? Or is the motor turning over?

 

[nuckin futs]

Ive got a 1m pipe on the end of the bar now....going to undo it...lube the bolt face and find some more pipe...View attachment 17409

that pipe should be fine. if u get any longer youll need to take the bonnet off lol

 

[nuckin futs]

as long as its a good quality breaker bar.

 

[camo.b]

Going to crack it again and lube it..just to releive the bolt face and balancer binding.ive made a holder to lock from turning over.

 

[camo.b]

as long as its a good quality breaker bar.

Unsure!!! I like my teeth

 

[nuckin futs]

Unsure!!! I like my teeth

helmet and mouth guard lol

 

[camo.b]

helmet and mouth guard lol

Good tip...have neither

 

[camo.b]

Done....tip for all..lube the bolt face and the mating surface of the balancer and you will get 75nm + 120° no worries with a 1.2m bar.
No teeth lost and no flesh wounds.

 

[nuckin futs]

i used an old snap on ratchet first try. didnt last long and copped it in the jaw

 

[camo.b]

Been there before.the no name chrome V breaker bar held up well.

 

[myoldhk]

Stupid cheapauto breaker bar for me, and a leg got me 120deg.

 

[old8s]

Im going to give it a crack!
I've read alot and found some really useful guides. And have most of the tools required.
Any which way I look at it, its just getting dearer and dearer.
Main reason is if I buy a single row kit $650, it doesn't come with a vacuum gear. And any kit that does needs to be rebuilt as the shaft spline got changed so also needs to come out.
If I buy a double row kit it through yd25 its $1600 and a double sprocket for vacuum pump on standard (older) shaft.
If I buy engines australia double row kit it comes with a vacuum pump rebuild kit for vacuum pump $1200.
This is just the kit prices, ontop is $1000 labour to get installed.
If I do it myself its would be $1200 plus say $200 in additional tools. And Time (a good weekend). Then oil and coolant, gasket goop and carby cleaner.

Anyone installed their own?
Any pointers or problems you've come across?

engines australia kit VS yd25
whats the differance ?
how long do they last ?
What is in these kits ?

I`ve been told once they are converted then there pritty much bomb proof Reason i ask is im looking to buy a D40 never owned one
has nissan updated to double row chains yet ?

 

[RustyNav09]

Hadn't heard about another company doing a dual row kit. Interesting

Russ