D40 Turbo Overboost Issue

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mclarenaml

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Apologies if this ends up a bit of a tome, but I’ll attempt to fill in all the relevant (?) history.

The vehicle is a 2006 D40 Navara, with the 2.5 turbo diesel engine, and it’s done around 250000km The problem first arose in early 2022, and is triggered when the vehicle is under sustained load for a period. The vehicle is often used to tow a loaded horse trailer, and the problem typically happens with long, uphill, open road sections where there is high power demand for maybe 10 seconds or longer. Now that we know what triggers it, the fault can be created on demand. When the problem occurs, the vehicle has an instant loss of power, similar to limp mode, but power can be restored by lifting and reapplying the throttle. It is possible to generate the fault without a load, but is a bit harder, and doesn’t happen in normal use. Minimal faults were being logged, but I think I now understand why.

The vehicle was away from home when the first occurred, so was not handled by our normal garage. When they first looked at the ECU, they noted that there were MAP sensor and boost control solenoid faults present, but have no other details. They tested the supply and MAP sensor earth and all OK, but problem persisted. They replaced what was invoiced as a “41-540 Turbo Dies.pressure valve” (I suspect there is a typo there, as don’t know what this is other than it wasn’t cheap!), and installed a new boost solenoid sensor. I recollect that they also replaced something expensive, but were somehow able to return this after verifying it made no difference, but don’t know what this was. When the vehicle was returned, the problem was supposedly resolved.

But No! About 4 weeks later, it was given to our normal garage to do a full service, as a precursor to try to get to the bottom of this. They noted there was a boost sensor P0238 code present, but were not certain if this was historical. They were supposed to check/replace the fuel filters, but missed the pre-filter. They road tested the vehicle with live data running, and found around 200KPa of boost, which is at the upper limit, and possibly indicated overboost, but other than this they couldn’t fault it.

After another 4 weeks it was back again. By this stage we had figured out how to create the fault on demand, so expected there would be mass of faults logged, but they only found a single P0234 (another overboost code). They removed and checked the DPF. This time I was able to demonstrate the fault to them, and their suspicion turned to the fuel supply. They then “found” the pre-filter they had missed earlier, it was full of muck, so replaced it. At this point the problem appeared to have been resolved. That was June 2022, and the problem did not reappear for 2 years.

Mid way through this year, the problem reoccurred, and as before, it’s triggerable on demand, but really only evident under the load conditions mentioned earlier. It’s been back with a third garage, and after rechecking everything he can, he is convinced that the problem is the turbo itself. I admit to being a bit sceptical, particularly as replacing this without a smoking gun is an expensive hope.

To try and understand this better myself, I’ve got an ODB scanner running, and have been playing with generating the problem, and seeing what is logged. Even time I trigger the fault, I have a pending P0234 code logged, which will disappear after a period (supposedly after a restart, but in the Navara it takes longer than that – just seems to be based on a period without the fault recurring). These all indicate an overboost issue. I didn’t understand about pending codes earlier, but this presumably explains the earlier scenarios with no apparent faults being logged.

I feel comfortable that the ECU is detecting an overboost situation and is taking remedial action, but the question is why. I’d appreciate any thoughts, ideas, things that should be checked, whatever. I’m not averse to replacing a turbo, but would like something definitive to pinpoint this as the issue. I do have some questions though!
  • Can this be caused by the turbo itself? I’ve read on this forum about potentially stuck vanes on these turbos which could presumably do this.
  • I couldn’t find anything in the OBD sensors that gave me a direct turbo boost reading. Without this, how does the ECU come to an overboost conclusion? (there is a “Calculated Boost” sensor (or pseudo-sensor), but this seems to indicate the boost the ECU has requested, rather than what it has. This tops out around 1.5bar (150 odd Kpa), which seems about right for this engine.
  • The apparent resolution two years ago by replacing a dirty fuel filter has me puzzled, as seems to indicate a totally different issue, whereas everything feels identical. I am wondering if there was already a marginal issue around the turbo, that fixing fuel supply issues simply masked for a period.
  • If we do go the replacement turbo route, Nissan replacements are eye-wateringly expensive, and I’d probably just (sadly!) replace the vehicle. There are a number of aftermarket turbo’s around for these, many originating in China. I gather quality varies from rubbish to good! Anyone had any experiences with these?
Thanks for any help or pointers anyone can give!

Andrew
 
Based on my limited experience, it might be worth checking the turbo vanes and possibly cleaning them. They do get sticky and without any specific knowledge I've read that the earlier boost control is more prone to problems than the 140kW version.

There are certainly good, cheap turbos out there. I have an AU$250 turbo on my Holden Jackaroo/Isuzu Trooper that has done 200,000km with no issues. Identical to the OEM IHI turbo for a fraction of the cost.
My mechanic has put a $300 turbo on a Navara and it's been going well for 2 years.
Unfortunately I don't know how to pick the good ones...
 
If overboosting is your problem, you may be able to resolve it by adjusting the actuator on the turbo. Certainly I would start there before buying a whole new turbo. See @Scott52 's helpful post here.

Incidentally I recently experimented a little and did not bother with the extra turn of the stop screw after contacting the lever arm (with actuator arm under vacuum at max lift and vanes closed). I did that maybe 2 months ago and so far have had zero issues. If anything my economy has improved marginally.

Have a play and see how you go.

I also did not use a feeler guage but rather monitored with a cheap endoscope camera I bought on ebay.

My understanding is dirty vanes are more likely to be stuck in the open position than the closed position, which would cause underboosting not overboosting. Nonetheless if you do decide you want to de-carbonise your turbo to free the vanes up a little, oven cleaner does a terrific job. Bugger of a job though. If you remove the actuator rod from the control arm - as I recommend you do so you can easily manipulate the vanes open and close while cleaning - try not to lose the circlip.
 
Thanks for the info. Definitely understanding more and more how this actually works, rather than my prior assumptions.
I'd always assumed that the ECU was involved in controlling turbo boost on variable vane turbos, but if I understand you and the info you linked to correctly, the turbo boost is purely vacuum driven (I assume intake vacuum?), and the ECU only chimes in if it gets too high - ie. It's a mechanical control with the ECU acting as a safety valve. Is this a valid comment?
If so, it would seem that boost is totally determined by vacuum and the length of the actuator arm, and your suggestion of simply tweaking the arm to reduce the boost for a given vacuum would make a lot of sense. Why would one of the garages not have done this?
Can you think of any other reason why a turbo would overboost - is there any failure mode on a turbo that would lead to this?
Also, any idea where the ECU derives the current boost levels from - I couldn't see any sensor that seemed to provide this.
Thanks again for the help - it's an education!!
Andrew
 
Vacuum pump on the driver side of the engine provides vacuum to the brake booster and to the boost control solenoid (BCS) over on the passenger side, located under the airbox near the alternator.

BCS then apportions vacuum either to the turbo actuator (where it closes the vanes under vacuum) OR it bleeds it to air intake. BCS is easy to recognise with 3 vac lines coming off it (1 input, 2 output).

ECU tells the BCS how much vac the turbo is to receive. ECU is also reading boost (amongst a gazillion other things) and making mega fast micro adjustments via the BCS as required. Its a very hard working, precise little piece of equipment.

I have never heard of a failing BCS causing overboosting. Underboosting, absolutely, but not overboosting. BCSs do fail but they are designed to fail in the open position with vacuum bleeding to atmosphere (intake). Meaning an unresponsive turbo.

But they are not expensive (if you buy an ebay knock-off), so you could try that if you wanted.

I am not an expert but I would think overboosting is more likely due to the actuator arm on the turbo not being properly calibrated (as discussed above). It might be getting the right amount of vacuum but is overboosting due to the vanes being in the wrong position (i.e. too closed for the rev range). In my case I had the opposite: the actuator had failed and stopped lifting the arm at about 12 in Hg of vacuum leading to chronic underboosting.

You are correct the ECU not only brings on boost by regulating vac to the turbo actuator but also acts as a safeguard against overboosting. I have never got mine to go into limp mode from overboosting or throwing a code like you have, but I understand ~22 psi or thereabouts is where the ECU gets upset and shuts the show down. Have you recorded and charted your boost while creating the fault on demand? Be interesting to see what the number is.

I am not sure where the ECU measures boost but I expect its from the Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) sensor. This is on driver side front, bolted into the intercooler. It's plausible that if there is a fault here then that could also lead to overboosting due to bad data going to the ECU which in turn affects BCS calculations. Or just the MAP sensor sending a high number to ECU and it in turn throws the toys out of the cot.

I periodically pull my MAP sensor off and give it a clean with contact cleaner. Likewise the Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor at the air box. I figure the better data these two sensors are providing to my ECU then the better instructions ECU will in turn provide the turbo via the BCS.
 
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Thanks for all the detail - I'm finding it enlightening!
Maybe a dumb question, but if the ECU is ultimately controlling the turbo boost, why doesn't it simply back it off rather than create an overboost situation?
Are there any implications I should be aware of tweaking the actuator arm adjustment? Could this just be masking another issue?
And on the boost detection, there is an inlet manifold pressure sensor, which is where I guess the ECU is getting it's info from. I'll get the rig out again in the next couple of days and see what that is telling me when it fails.
Thanks again for all the insights. Andrew
 
As I understand it controlling boost is both an active and reactive process for the ECU. I say reactive because there are a bunch of variables the ECU does not control, most notably what you're doing with your right foot. And as you know turbos can spool up pretty quickly. In reality it is regularly backing off the boost to keep it within its happy range. But it is also foreseeable that it would have a programmed upper figure in mind where it considers boost is now potentially damaging to the turbo or engine and when that figure is hit - perhaps because you buried the boot - it does not just wind back boost via the BCS but also throws a code and/or goes into limp mode. Its a pre-programmed fail safe.
 
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