D40 Fuel Economy
- Thread starter Dazza
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Scotty, two obvious differences between the auto and the manual - the auto uses a fluid drive, not a solid, so there's some loss in the torque converter. over 70km/h the torque converter will lock, giving a solid engagement, so it's not all bad.
The second impact is the DPF, which filters out the soot. Great idea, but if it fills with soot, it has to clean itself in a regen cycle, which is achieved by firing the injectors during the exhaust stroke.
That being said, my auto gets better than predicted by Nissan. I am not unhappy!
The second impact is the DPF, which filters out the soot. Great idea, but if it fills with soot, it has to clean itself in a regen cycle, which is achieved by firing the injectors during the exhaust stroke.
That being said, my auto gets better than predicted by Nissan. I am not unhappy!
Jardsoooo
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Hey blokes - D40 TD 3500k: I've just posted this elsewhere on the forum but I can report that after having to disconnect battery last weekend ( bluetooth issues) the ute APPEARS to have more zing. Smoother, sweeter, free-er. Dunno - could be dreaming. Its always come and gone a bit but really seems different for the past couple of days - even less deadzone. I think.
Aussie Frontier
Member
You made your computer relearn its settings again.
Its well known to improve things on a regular basis
Jardsoooo
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Yeah you wonder why then they dont design the damn thing to reset every time it is turned off - if every time it is reset it is an improvement
Or to put it another way, why design something that learns to go out of tune or forget its appropriate settings.
I'm thinking we as a species are seriously out thinking ourselves.
But still - getting a 2.5 D to zing along like it can ( over 1500 rpm I hasten to add ) whilst returning under 10 LPH is probably a bit of a design feat.
Should probably try to appreciate all the good whilst contemplating the, lets say quirky aspects.
Aussie Frontier
Member
The ECU in our truck is constantly learning but it learns our good and our bad habbits . So it will learn your inner city driving and look after itself so to speak .If you did all freeway driving and never stop start then it would learn a totally different set of ideas.
If you continually reset the system then it would be just as bad as it would never learn anything as such.
On the burners it would be easiest to just reset the ECU everytime you service it so every 5k. Again this is always up to the individual drivers as to how to look after their trucks .
If you continually reset the system then it would be just as bad as it would never learn anything as such.
On the burners it would be easiest to just reset the ECU everytime you service it so every 5k. Again this is always up to the individual drivers as to how to look after their trucks .
Beergutz
Member
I do alot of heavy towing in my D40. Does this adversely affect settings in my ECU ? Will it differenciate between towing 2.5t down the freeway and around town to not towing anything at? will be interesting to reset and find out!
blue boy
Member
so to reset the ecu it's as easy as just disconnecting the battery and then re connecting it???????do you have to leave it off for a certain amount of time?
It seems that resetting the ECU is as easy as:
1) Turn off the car
2) Disconnect the negative battery lead
3) Turn ON the car (yes, it won't work, but it uses residual charge up)
4) Count to 10
5) Turn OFF the car
6) Reconnect the negative lead and enjoy.
1) Turn off the car
2) Disconnect the negative battery lead
3) Turn ON the car (yes, it won't work, but it uses residual charge up)
4) Count to 10
5) Turn OFF the car
6) Reconnect the negative lead and enjoy.
Eug
Member
on my previous car i would just apply the brakes in place of step 3 as outlined by Old.Tony, either would work.
lafayette
Member
Hi All, average 720 Km with about 75l, '08 mod D40 ST-X 6s man diesel mostly motorway and some urban.
John
John
It's achievable, but it'd be THAT car and a very very light-footed driver. These things weigh 2 tonnes, they're less aerodynamic than a bucket of dynamic lifter and the 2.5L engine is going to need fuel to get it all moving and keep it there.
Optimum cruise speed is just where the turbo brings the torque up, which is at about 2,000rpm - 95km/h or so. Faster than that and you're throwing fuel away (wind resistance). Slower and the engine is not developing the max power for the fuel being drawn in.
Can it do 8s? Maybe. I wouldn't count on it, though. Be nice if you could get them to sign off on that as a guarantee!
Note: I assumed this meant an older model vehicle. I have read in the other thread that you are talking about the 2010 diesel - which produces more power than the 2009 model. 8.5s might indeed be possible with an unladen vehicle.
Optimum cruise speed is just where the turbo brings the torque up, which is at about 2,000rpm - 95km/h or so. Faster than that and you're throwing fuel away (wind resistance). Slower and the engine is not developing the max power for the fuel being drawn in.
Can it do 8s? Maybe. I wouldn't count on it, though. Be nice if you could get them to sign off on that as a guarantee!
Note: I assumed this meant an older model vehicle. I have read in the other thread that you are talking about the 2010 diesel - which produces more power than the 2009 model. 8.5s might indeed be possible with an unladen vehicle.
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Hi folks mine is a 2008 STX 2.5TD manual. Drove down to Perth the other day and mileage was 10.3 lts per 100km. Had suspension kit fitted, bash plate and 265/75/16 tyres. Return trip mileage was 10.9 lts per 100km amd speedo is pretty well spot on. I am happy with those figures.
Cheers John
Cheers John
Good to hear, Fisholot. Could you give us an indication of how accurate the odometer is now?
Martin'sD40
Member
With Gas on my 06 plate and 125k's n the clock. I get 8.8L just about every day , this is with 265 tyres lifted and 8/900kg load and driving around in the hills around Wisemans Ferry , take the load off and take it for a trip the returns are below 8.5 not driving over 110kmh and driving to the speed limit
Drive it hard with load etc etc etc and the worse I have gotten over a 100km drive was 10.8L
Scan gauge set with gps and fuel settings calibrated with a measured tank
Cheers Marty
Drive it hard with load etc etc etc and the worse I have gotten over a 100km drive was 10.8L
Scan gauge set with gps and fuel settings calibrated with a measured tank
Cheers Marty
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Biscuits
Ginger Ninja.
Recently reset my ecu by removing neg terminal.
Also did the best mod i can recommend to anyone. First remove your right shoe and sock, then empty all the lead out of your right foot. Now when you drive your car you will find there is no real need to go over 2500 rpm.
The Ecu reset and the Right Foot mod have gained me around 50-100km a tank. Will know ecatly how much when this tank is done.
Also did the best mod i can recommend to anyone. First remove your right shoe and sock, then empty all the lead out of your right foot. Now when you drive your car you will find there is no real need to go over 2500 rpm.
The Ecu reset and the Right Foot mod have gained me around 50-100km a tank. Will know ecatly how much when this tank is done.
Gentlemen,
I have just spent the past hour reading every post on this 32 page thread trying to find an answer.
I've got a '08 D40 T/D Auto STX DPF Fitted (Spanish Built) and I am getting absolutely fed up it with its fuel consumption and would really appreciate some solid advice. Some info to consider:
1. Only addition to weight would be my ARB Sahara bull bar
2. 25,000km on the clock running the stock Continental CONTITRAC 16' Tyres
3. Driven mostly to work and back during week (15km each way) and the ocassional weekend drive to visit family/friends (50-100km) max
4. I work at a Caltex Servo (Truck Stop) so i've only ever filled up with Caltex Diesel.
5. Serviced strictly every 5,000km using C3 oil + new filter - have also replaced air & diesel filter (genuine)
Fuel consumption has been getting worse and worse. 410km and the light comes on. I estimate at that rate that i would get about 480km out of an 80 litr tank... 16.6L/100km constant.
Have tried the ecu reset. Has done nothing. Gave it to Nissan.... gave me the usual response. "Have checked the system (ecu) with no errors.
What to do???
I have just spent the past hour reading every post on this 32 page thread trying to find an answer.
I've got a '08 D40 T/D Auto STX DPF Fitted (Spanish Built) and I am getting absolutely fed up it with its fuel consumption and would really appreciate some solid advice. Some info to consider:
1. Only addition to weight would be my ARB Sahara bull bar
2. 25,000km on the clock running the stock Continental CONTITRAC 16' Tyres
3. Driven mostly to work and back during week (15km each way) and the ocassional weekend drive to visit family/friends (50-100km) max
4. I work at a Caltex Servo (Truck Stop) so i've only ever filled up with Caltex Diesel.
5. Serviced strictly every 5,000km using C3 oil + new filter - have also replaced air & diesel filter (genuine)
Fuel consumption has been getting worse and worse. 410km and the light comes on. I estimate at that rate that i would get about 480km out of an 80 litr tank... 16.6L/100km constant.
Have tried the ecu reset. Has done nothing. Gave it to Nissan.... gave me the usual response. "Have checked the system (ecu) with no errors.
What to do???
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