D40 Fuel Economy

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Hahahaha. I reckon the rubber rides quite smooth personally. The springs do still work just fine inverted. If the salesman told you you need aftermarket suspension to put more than 150kg in the tub of a 3/4T commercial vehicle, his job should be in the newspaper! :big_smile:

yes , well my 2008 auto rx king cab has had all these problems , rattles like **** , suspension in rear is rooted and $1500 if i want to replace itas warranty says its ok,,:,rusty roof,plastic linings scratch if you look at em the wrong way ,fuel ecnomy is awfull even when empty (which is most of the time , ) unladen round town 15-16l/100 on highway 13-14/100 with 800kg camper on back up to 21-25l/100 , has no guts ,no go , have had injectors replaced at 13k , still no power , flat lines at 110-120 km,had air bags fitted from new so rear springs dont have any load at all an the thing is flat in arse when the bags are empty, took to nissan same response oh yeah its within its perameters , same went for fuel econ, as per rattles , have done numerous ecu eset , both versions ,tried injector cleaner ,diesiel additive , changed air ,oil,just about every ******* thing to change i have and guess what its still rooted , and nissan tell me i have nothing to worry about , as its "within its perameters" **** you nissan , next time ill get a toyota like i should have in the first place:suicide2::suicide2:
 
Folks my D40 STX dual cab is now probably carrying an exta half tonne in 'add ons' maybe even more. It now has around 47000km on the clock and when running unladen on the highway I get around 13/100 and when running fully laden I get around 13/100 and with the 1 tonne Kangacampertrailer hooked up and fully laden .....yep I still get around 13/100......reckon driving styles and a raft of other stuff must be affecting the results we all get.....and guess what...same thing happens regardless of the make of vehicle. No rattles in my mighty D40 though.
....and just added a couple more extras: ARB steel side steps, Water Watch and DBA slotted rotors with Bendix pads.
 
Folks my D40 STX dual cab is now probably carrying an exta half tonne in 'add ons' maybe even more. It now has around 47000km on the clock and when running unladen on the highway I get around 13/100 and when running fully laden I get around 13/100 and with the 1 tonne Kangacampertrailer hooked up and fully laden .....yep I still get around 13/100......reckon driving styles and a raft of other stuff must be affecting the results we all get.....and guess what...same thing happens regardless of the make of vehicle. No rattles in my mighty D40 though.
....and just added a couple more extras: ARB steel side steps, Water Watch and DBA slotted rotors with Bendix pads.

You keep a close eye on you Mags now that you are carrying that extra weight and all , I had 3 of mine fail due to constant weight , I ended up fitting the steel rims for safety

Cheers Marty
 
Marty,

Could you describe the failure a little better? The vehicle ships supposedly capable of having a GVM of 2790Kg (1980 + 810). If the alloy rims fail, that's a significant issue to take up with Nissan.
 
They are rated LOL but not for our roads that are crap compared to Europe's roads the rims crack across the webbing from the rear with tiny hairline cracks that appear before you know it , take the rims off and have a look from the rear you can see the cast mark that I'm talking about

I posted at the Navara form some time back here is the link this was for 16" rims

I have no idea if the 17" are any better or not all I can say even the warranty replacement rims failed and I dont your it for 4x4 at all its a work truck

Cheers Marty
 
I just went out and checked my rims. Under 400k to 30,000 on the clock, and no sign of any cracking. Including the ball weight of the 1.8T van, I've had 2680kg on the four wheels and I've had that on dirt and rough roads.

I wonder if it's only for a particular year model?
 
I'd suggest (and hope) any problem might have been model specific. I read that frontier post a while ago, did the same thing as Tony and went out to check my rims and have done a few times since.

I don't thrash my ute around the bush but most of the bitumen roads around here are lumpy, pot holed and patched and shouldn't be 80 zones let alone the 100 zones they are. My ute spends many hours on dirt tracks or APM tracks where large rocks make up the surface and I've spent a fair bit of time recently bouncing around muddy paddocks chasing cows and thankfully there is no sign of cracking on my rims as yet. I'll be checking again this week when my car is over the pits getting it's service done but I still don't expect to see anything abnormal.
 
ive got 07 stx manual diesel... contantly getting 750 kms to a tank.. and still have fuel in tank at fuel light i fill back up...... i have 102kms on clock and have canopy on back now. No complaints here... never ecu reset... no chips/exh at all... best was 850kms out of it not towing 110kph..

my driving is on freeway generally and round town @100-110 normally..


the worst was petrol pathfinder auto r51's jesus... those fuckers drink the ****... lucky i had fuel card...
 
just did a trip up north from brisbane to gin gin after a bit of a detour stop and back towing a 4m boat, all up around 1000 km and used around 120L. turbo diesel manual d40 stx. needless to say i was very impressed and my mate was surprised that i didn't bother pulling over for fuel.
 
just did a trip up north from brisbane to gin gin after a bit of a detour stop and back towing a 4m boat, all up around 1000 km and used around 120L. turbo diesel manual d40 stx. needless to say i was very impressed and my mate was surprised that i didn't bother pulling over for fuel.

So I'm guessing that you have tossed the OEM fuel tank and fitted a long range one. I fitted a 160ltr tank to overcome the relatively high fuel consumption (14L/100KM) I get from my auto D40.
 
So I'm guessing that you have tossed the OEM fuel tank and fitted a long range one. I fitted a 160ltr tank to overcome the relatively high fuel consumption (14L/100KM) I get from my auto D40.

sorry mate i re-read what i wrote and i should have explained it better. he was impressed that we didn't need to pull over for fuel for each leg of the journey we filled up just before we left for home (at 500km). he just purchased a petrol xtrail against my advice and has been very skeptical about turbo diesel technology. his xtrail needed to stop every 300km for a drink towing the boat (another trip).

cheers
eug
 
We're focusing on the CAT and the exhaust-stroke injector openings in another thread, which might be of interest to you Pete. It may be that there's a faulty sensor - eg the O2 sensor - that is the cause of all the woes.

Here is a link to that thread. Hope there's some ray of light in there for you.

yeah thanks Tony....I've been following that discussion closely.
 
2006 stx 2.5 D manual. 80000 km on it. Am getting 10.0 litres / 100 km with all city driving (Hobart - hilly) and 7.8 - 8.2 litres / 100 km winding highway roads at 100 - 110 km / hour. Economy improved about 0.5 - 0.8 litres / 100 km when the EGR was blanked off. These are full tank refill figures, using the odometer. Odometer has been checked against both GPS and the highway speedo check markers for distance over 5 km, and with 265 tyres the odometer reads 2.5% less than actual distance travelled - so for example would show 97.5 km when 100 km actually travelled.
 
I'm always around the 9.5-10.0 km/l mark but it's mostly country roads at 110kph. Low fuel light usually comes on at 650km.


Tow a Jurgens Oryx camper which is cube shaped and would weigh around 1500kg fully loaded. At 90-100kph, I routinely get 9.0km/l. Low fuel light usually comes on at 650km.

Vehicle is basically stock with a 50mm lift, canopy, roobar and roofbars so I'm happy with what I get.
 
Hello All
New member just wanting to know if when getting 10k service done do Nissan do anything to
improve fuel econ or power just asking i have 2010 ST just hitting 9700km

Steve
 
Steve they don't do anything deliberate. The diesels tend to be tight while new but start loosening up beyond 10,000km.

If your economy is bad, you could (this cannot harm your car) perform an ECU reset, which is just popping the battery lead off, press the brakes and reconnect. Make sure the car is unloaded when you do it and immediately take it for a gentle drive (no big hills, no revving over 2500rpm, no more than half throttle, let it get to highway speeds). Nissan won't spot it, all it's doing is making the ECU forget the fuel map it had developed and do it again from scratch.

Your power shouldn't improve much either. These diesels are different to petrol, and where the petrol "power" reveals itself in fast take-offs, lots of burnouts and smoke everywhere, the true power of a diesel lies in its ability to haul loads for long distances without consuming gobs of fuel.

It's a lesson I had to learn, coming from a Commodore and into my first diesel. They are different, they drive different and our expectations need to be different.

Would I change back? Never.
 
I have had my Series 4 auto diesel for 3 weeks now. With no accessories and normal everyday driving I was getting 8.9ltrs/100km. I have just got a ARB deluxe bull bar fitted, a ARB canopy, Liner, driving lights, dual battery system and roof bars. I now get 10.5ltrs/100km. Weight costs but still a site better than the 17.4 or so I was getting from my 4.8 Patrol.
 
Mine's pretty much stock expect for all the crap under the canopy and the figures for my current tank (according to SG) are 9.1 with the last two 40k trips getting as low as 8.7. The previous tank average was 9.8. I suppose some might say it could be loosen up after 12 months but I'm more inclined to think driving habits have more to do with it than anything else.
 
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