D40 alternator clutch pulley replacement information

[Widge87]

Hey all,
Just wanted to share some infomation I have recently learnt, after the alternator clutch pulley on my 07 D40 turbo diesel ST-X started to fail, hopefuly this might help someone in the future.
After a few water crossings labour day weekend, the alternator started to make some grinding noises, along with my scangauge showing that the alt wasn't charging and the battery light coming on. This was only at start up, and after running at higher RPM would all go back to normal. The noise was only being made while the alt wasn't charging, so that made me believe that the alt bearings were fine.

Ok so now to find a new pulley. The YD25 engine from my research has 2 differant pulleys. Early models have a 17mm hex socket on the front of the pulley, later models have a 33 tooth spline. These pulleys have the same shaft but have a differant offset. I found this out at http://http://www.precisionparts.com.au/epcat.pdf. Nissan quoted me $475 for the 17mm hex style, Precision Parts quoted me $62 for a after market Nuline version, Repco also sell these Nuline pulleys but will cost you $130.

After receiving the pulley from precision part the next day (those guys were very helpful!! and no im not connected to them in anyway haha) the next step was to change the pulley. It may be possible to remove the pulley without removing the alt, but i thought it would be easyer to take the alt out, and do it on the bench. To do this the passenager side inner guard, needs to be removed to reach mounting bolts, one at the top one underneath. To remove the pulley off the alt, you will need either a 17mm in-hex socket, or if you have the spline type you will need the special tool to do it (you can buy them). Then it just a matter of holding the shaft, I did this by putting an allen key through a hole in the alt housing, so it would hit against a solid part of the rotor (be careful its not hitting anything fragile!). Then undoing the pulley anti-clock wise. Then all you have to do is put it all back together and your done.

So I hope that this will help someone out one day, and save help some money to. Cheers Glenn

 

[d40ryan]

i had a similar issue sounded like the bearing was lose and made an awful sound, altho it stopped after a while and then it turned into little rocks imbedded into the fan belts and were punching holes through it and had split the belt in half! so yeh have a quick check of he belts themselves

 

[nathand22]

Nice work. some good info there, it should save someone some bucks to.
Maybe throw up a link for precision if you can.

 

[Widge87]

Thanks Nathand22, Heres persision parts website http://www.precisionparts.com.au/. Couldn't recommend them enough, they were very easy to deal with. Glenn

 

[kevinm1962]

clutch pulley

same thing happened to me except iwas unable to find another pulley. So what i done was a bit of a bush fix. first i removed the air box took the alt out i was going to buy a new one as everyone told me i cant buy the pulley. A friend of mine who is an auto electrician explained that the clutch pulley was only there to save the alt, from over revving. But he told me that alt is rated to 14000 rpms and your diesel is going no where near that. I took the pulley off with a hex head and rattle gun and welded the pulley at12,3,6,and 9 put it back together brilliant.(But if i could have bought a new pulley i would have) IN doing this i could have got enough weld on it while its still in the car so for a bush fix this way will get you out of trouble till you can do it properly. kev

 

[matmce]

Hey all,
Just wanted to share some infomation I have recently learnt, after the alternator clutch pulley on my 07 D40 turbo diesel ST-X started to fail, hopefuly this might help someone in the future.
After a few water crossings labour day weekend, the alternator started to make some grinding noises, along with my scangauge showing that the alt wasn't charging and the battery light coming on. This was only at start up, and after running at higher RPM would all go back to normal. The noise was only being made while the alt wasn't charging, so that made me believe that the alt bearings were fine.

Ok so now to find a new pulley. The YD25 engine from my research has 2 differant pulleys. Early models have a 17mm hex socket on the front of the pulley, later models have a 33 tooth spline. These pulleys have the same shaft but have a differant offset. I found this out at http://http://www.precisionparts.com.au/epcat.pdf. Nissan quoted me $475 for the 17mm hex style, Precision Parts quoted me $62 for a after market
Nuline version, Repco also sell these Nuline pulleys but will cost you $130.

After receiving the pulley from precision part the next day (those guys were very helpful!! and no im not connected to them in anyway haha) the next step was to change the pulley. It may be possible to remove the pulley without removing the alt, but i thought it would be easyer to take the alt out, and do it on the bench. To do this the passenager side inner guard, needs to be removed to reach mounting bolts, one at the top one underneath. To remove the pulley off the alt, you will need either a 17mm in-hex socket, or if you have the spline type you will need the special tool to do it (you can buy them). Then it just a matter of holding the shaft, I did this by putting an allen key through a hole in the alt housing, so it would hit against a solid part of the rotor (be careful its not hitting anything fragile!). Then undoing the pulley anti-clock wise. Then all you have to do is put it all back together and your done.

So I hope that this will help someone out one day, and save help some money to. Cheers Glenn

Nice work Glenn, my alternator hasn't died yet but its making funny noise on shut down. This thread has helped heaps. i will pass this info on to my auto elec.

 

[Widge87]

Thanks, good to hear it helped you out.

 

[matmce]

Must say thanks again.
Ordered a new pulley today from Precision Parts for $80 including the removal tool socket for a rattle gun ($10). Just have to freight it to Melb. Lucky for me i have a family member who owns a freight company who picks up from Wagga Wagga every day. Might cost a couple of froffys.
I'll let you know how i go changing it over.

 

[Widge87]

Good stuff! If you learn any new tricks, make sure you add to the thread.

 

[matmce]

Good stuff! If you learn any new tricks, make sure you add to the thread.

Got the new pulley today.
I asked the brother-inlaw what it would cost if someone else needed a new pulley freighted from WaggaWagga to Melb metro and he said $25 bucks door to door. That is picked up from Precision Parts and delivered to your door (usually 2 days) if in Melb metro. He does deliver to country Vic but cost would depend on where you live. If anyone is interested i can post up the details.
Anyway, back to the question i wanted to ask, is there a torque setting for the new pulley or do i just tighten it till it breaks and then back it off a 1/4 of a turn?
Will doing it up with a rattle gun be sufficient?

Any info would be great as i want to try this myself and i was trying to think of all the possible things i am going to encounter.
There's another thing, the fan belt. What tension on that?
Thanks

 

[Widge87]

Yeah its not hard to do, so give it a go. There would be a torque setting for the pulley, but I dont know what it is, I just did it up tight with a ratchet. If your going to use a rattle gun, dont go overboard with it. As for the belt tension, what I did was measure how far down the adjuster pulley was, and adjusted it back to that measure at the end.
Good luck Glenn

 

[matmce]

thanks heaps

 

[ericcs]

torque settings for the pulley bolt are:
74nm or 55in/lbs

mine went about 3wks after warranty finnished, but in a rare act of goodwill, nissan paid for the parts. i needed a rotor shaft as well as the pulley

 

[matmce]

thanks ericcs

 

[matmce]

Fitted the pulley last night. Took about 2 1/2 hours. 1/2 hour to pull everthing off, 5 minutes to change the pulley, 15 minutes to put everything back and the rest of the time was swearing!!!!
It all went well.
I didn't take the inner guard off as i was able to reach the bottom bolt. A rattle gun with a universal joint and a long extenion bar. Had to move the the pipe from the air box and all the wires and hose above the alternator to get the darn thing out.
As for the belt retensioning, all i did was measure from the top of the tensioning pulley to the bottom of the bracket that holds tensioning nut before i started and returned it back to the same spot.

Anyway thanks again.

 

[Widge87]

No probs good to hear its all sweet!

 

[teamkiwi]

Is this a common fault in the D40? I was playing in mud a few weeks ago and must have got some in there. i started making noises every now and then and the handbrake light was on for about half an hour but went out with few revs. I'm doing he Simpson soon and are thinking this may be a spare part to take?
Or can the car be run without the belt if needed?

 

[matmce]

mine started making noises a week after going thru some water so i changed it before it failed. I would change it as soon as possible before it failed altogether and use the old one for a spare.
Good luck on the simpson. i'm planning that trip next year.

 

[teamkiwi]

Thanks mate. Logical advice i reckon. The noise has well and truly stopped now but I figure I've started the failure process already.

 

[oddkid82]

mine started making noises a week after going thru some water so i changed it before it failed. I would change it as soon as possible before it failed altogether and use the old one for a spare.
Good luck on the simpson. i'm planning that trip next year.

I am trying to change my pulley, how do you stop the alternator from spinning, when I try and undo the clutch pulley with the hex 17 bit. I am using a socket wrench to try and loosen the pulley but the alternator shaft spins and can't loosen it