D40 alternator clutch pulley replacement information

[teamkiwi]

can you jam a screwdriver in the side of the housing against the fan blade? Not my fault if t breaks tho lol

 

[Widge87]

Hey Oddkid82, when I did mine I slide an Allen key, through one of the holes in the in the front of the Alt housing to stop the rotor turning. I made sure that the Allen key was hitting against a solid part of the rotor. Keep away from fragile looking parts, be gentle with it and you should be fine.
Hope it all goes well Glenn

 

[matmce]

can you jam a screwdriver in the side of the housing against the fan blade? Not my fault if t breaks tho lol

Thats what i did but i was very gentle. i used a quick squirt on the rattle gun and it came undone really easy.

 

[solja]

help

what is the size of the bit needed to fit into the pully? I see it's a hex head. I'm going to be trying to do it in situ so its hard to measure looking for someone thats had to do that already

 

[navarian]

I think maybe 17mm?but i also think it differs for different years,
i bought my pulley from repco and i think they can supply the needed bit.
I borrowed one from a mate.
Maybe give your parts supplier a call and ask them.

 

[solja]

yes was a 17mm hex bit that was needed to remove the original pully. only thing i was missing was the fitting piece for the new nuline pully... and no where local had the 33t spline and it is the only downfall of pressions customer service as far as im concerned would have been nice for him just to mention the pully requires a different piece to fit. I made do sort of tightening it as much as I could and then letting the car do the rest. has seemingly worked well. and so much quieter running now. blew out my time for the job thought because the bottom bolt n nut were seized what a mission! almost rounded that lil ****er by the end of it lol good ol single hex socket and a lot of elbow grease won out though

 

[navarian]

The single hex works a treat,i gave all the nus,bolts etc a good spraying with wd40 the day before i changed mine.Helped i reckon.
What was the fitting piece that was missing?The hex bit?

 

[solja]

no well Im not sure if this will be different for the Navs from the Pathfinders but the Nuline Pully that supplied doesnt have the hex female end to tighten it onto the alternator with. it is a 33tooth spline drive. The only thing precission parts forgot to mention in our conversation. so I did not have a tool to tighten the pully with. and still dont although im driving... lol little bit of a bush mechanic fix i think. tightened it as best I could (which is flush with the alternator so it only needs a "pinch" up to tighten. threw it all back in turned everything on lights spotties air con hazards everything was cranking before I turned the ignition over so the alternator would start of under full load and i did my "pinch" tightening that way... lol. measured before and after and it moved slightly less than a 1mm in. the belt is running true no slipping or anything obvious and the pully is on there tightly

 

[LEIGHTO#L80]

Great information, mine did the same last weekend and made a shocking noise, pulled alternator out and it was spinning fine so had to be pulley. Got the nuline OAP006 (the one with 17mm hex) for from repco for $80 bucks and changed it during the weak. All good again.

Cheers, Widge87

 

[doc]

Add mine to the list of failed pulleys. I ordered the parts (pulley and tool) today through Repco and it should be here tomorrow morning.

My intention is to replace it while the alternator is still in-place. Has anyone removed using a breaker-bar instead of a rattle gun?

 

[Widge87]

Hey mate, I did mine with a breaker bar with out a problem.

 

[doc]

Sweet, thanks Widge. Will be glad to shut that noise up - very annoying and makes it hard to listen for possible timing chain noise when the engine is cold

 

[doc]

HOLY ALTERNATOR PULLEY BATMAN!

Well, the pulley is replaced. I had done the idler pulley previously so now there is no noise. Nothing. Nada.

I lie. The injectors still "tick".

I never thought that the alternator pulley bearing could cause such an annoying noise...until it was gone.

 

[T/\C]

Nice im going to give it ago hasnst been the same after a few water crossings horrible noise on start up then goes away when i rev the shit outta it hopefully saves me buying a new alternator

 

[Greeno]

I think I may have the same issue, water crossing then this horrible squealing on start up that would go away after a hard rev. Being where the alternator is I was thinking it could be the turbo shit itself but now I have read this I will try the pulley and hopefully that's the issue.

 

[Stevo_d40_05]

Alternator bearings cactus

Hey all,
Just wanted to share some infomation I have recently learnt, after the alternator clutch pulley on my 07 D40 turbo diesel ST-X started to fail, hopefuly this might help someone in the future.
After a few water crossings labour day weekend, the alternator started to make some grinding noises, along with my scangauge showing that the alt wasn't charging and the battery light coming on. This was only at start up, and after running at higher RPM would all go back to normal. The noise was only being made while the alt wasn't charging, so that made me believe that the alt bearings were fine.

Ok so now to find a new pulley. The YD25 engine from my research has 2 differant pulleys. Early models have a 17mm hex socket on the front of the pulley, later models have a 33 tooth spline. These pulleys have the same shaft but have a differant offset. I found this out at http://http://www.precisionparts.com.au/epcat.pdf. Nissan quoted me $475 for the 17mm hex style, Precision Parts quoted me $62 for a after market Nuline version, Repco also sell these Nuline pulleys but will cost you $130.

After receiving the pulley from precision part the next day (those guys were very helpful!! and no im not connected to them in anyway haha) the next step was to change the pulley. It may be possible to remove the pulley without removing the alt, but i thought it would be easyer to take the alt out, and do it on the bench. To do this the passenager side inner guard, needs to be removed to reach mounting bolts, one at the top one underneath. To remove the pulley off the alt, you will need either a 17mm in-hex socket, or if you have the spline type you will need the special tool to do it (you can buy them). Then it just a matter of holding the shaft, I did this by putting an allen key through a hole in the alt housing, so it would hit against a solid part of the rotor (be careful its not hitting anything fragile!). Then undoing the pulley anti-clock wise. Then all you have to do is put it all back together and your done.

So I hope that this will help someone out one day, and save help some money to. Cheers Glenn

Thanks for the info mate; just ordered a new pulley yesterday. My bearings are visible at the moment and looks like a couple missing! Not good. I just been putting grease in there best I can till I get the new one.

 

[crazy kiwi]

I have just had to replace my alternator as the pulley failed. But instead of making any noise it just came off the alternator shaft. When this happened I put it back on as the pulley and alternator both felt fine and I put it down to one of those freak things. Then it happened again and it striped the thread off the shaft also. I replaced it with a second hand one as Nissan here in NZ told me that it was going to cost 2K for a genuine one. I had problems undoing the bottom bolt and found that if you undo the top bolt off the alternator you can then lean the alternator over towards the passengers side, where there is a narrow slot that was perfect for a jimmy bar to fit in and take the pressure of the alternator and allow me to crack the bottom bolt. Hope that this saves someone some time.

 

[Dirtbiker]

I just replaced mine today. I didn't have to remove the alternator to do it. I sourced the replacement from Bursons for $91 and they had it in stock.
So from having the horrible noise to looking at this thread to having the problem fixed all in about 4 hours.

 

[John Sanderson]

clutch pulley

same thing happened to me except iwas unable to find another pulley. So what i done was a bit of a bush fix. first i removed the air box took the alt out i was going to buy a new one as everyone told me i cant buy the pulley. A friend of mine who is an auto electrician explained that the clutch pulley was only there to save the alt, from over revving. But he told me that alt is rated to 14000 rpms and your diesel is going no where near that. I took the pulley off with a hex head and rattle gun and welded the pulley at12,3,6,and 9 put it back together brilliant.(But if i could have bought a new pulley i would have) IN doing this i could have got enough weld on it while its still in the car so for a bush fix this way will get you out of trouble till you can do it properly. kev

Yup. I have had 3 alternator pulleys shit themselves over the years. Stupid clutch thing is there to solve a non-existent problem regarding alternator overspeed. Actually it's probably there to ensure Nissan sell lots of replacement alternators because in the early days you couldn't buy the pulley separately and had to buy a whole new alternator. Anyway, pull out the alt and just weld the pulley solid in a few spots and put the alt back in. I did that 100,000 kms ago.

 

[Hazlow]

Whats the best way to keep the alternator shaft in place while replacing the pulley with the alt still in the engine bay?
Tried the allen key but ended up just bending it.
Might be putting it in the wrong spot!