Clock Spring?

[Cainezo]

Hey legends!

So my horn isn't working and cruise control does not work.

The horn won't work no matter what the steering wheel position is, and cruise control light will show it is engaged, but it won't actually set speeds or anything.

Searched through the forums and it definitely seems like the clock spring is the answer, I just wanted to see if there was some good ways to test this theory before ordering the part? I've seen posts saying something about running a wire from the battery directly to the horn to test if this is working, how would I go about doing this?

Thanks in advance!!

 

[KevinE]

You could test the voltage at the horn with a multi meter on the connections while someone else helps out by pressing the horn, or

Unplug the horn from the wiring loom & apply 12V power at the connectors on the horn directly from the battery using jumper leads. Just be ready for the horn sounding when you touch the terminals on the horn with the jumper leads.

 

[Cainezo]

Thanks very much mate, I'll give it a whack Do I just find a diagram of the loom to find which one is responsible for the horn, or can I trace this back from the fuse box somehow? Sorry, I'm not very experienced with electricals, but always willing to learn.

Cheers!

 

[KevinE]

I'd just test via the actual horn under the bonnet first up;

If it doesn't register on the multi meter, you have a problem further back up the loom.

Or, if you test it by isolating it (by disconnecting the two wires) & it works when you apply 12V via jumper leads, then you have a problem elsewhere.

Just a thought, but have you checked the horn fuse? If not, I'd check that first.

 

[Cainezo]

Ah brilliant that makes sense! Cheers. Haha yeah checked the fuse and no issues.

 

[Old.Tony]

With a fine flat, medium flat and PH2 Phillips screwdriver plus a torx driver bit and a large spanner for the steering wheel nut you can check it yourself with a multimeter. The clock spring has pins on both sides that connect the horn and cruise control buttons. Indicator/headlight/wiper controls are managed on the sides of the clock spring unit, you can ignore these because they don't use the inner spring. It will be a matter of trial and error with the multimeter - but what I did was place the multimeter in resistance mode with sound on, place one electrode on the connector for the steering wheel controls and then run the other electrode through the range of pins in the bottom. If none of them make a beep you know the wire's broken.

Take care removing the airbag. It's easy to disconnect, just don't put your face too close to it in case it triggers (unlikely, but possible). It has a black retaining clip that needs to be pulled up and away from the yellow plug before pulling the yellow plug out.

 

[Cainezo]

Thanks mate!

Would disconnecting the battery before removing the airbag be advised or does the airbag trigger not use power from the battery?

 

[Old.Tony]

The airbag trigger does use battery power, but I've never had an issue with mine, and I've had my clock spring out quite a few times. If you feel more comfortable without any power to the vehicle, make sure you have the radio PIN beforehand, and write down your trip meter values if you use those for fuel consumption records then remove the negative battery terminal lead. As you open the door again, the internal light should consume what's left in the system.

 

[Cainezo]

Thanks mate!

 

[Cainezo]

Ended up scoring a Clock Spring from Clock Springs Australia:
https://clocksprings.com.au/product/25567-js40a-clock-spring-nissan-navara/
And the legend doing my timing chain chucked it in for free. I have a horn again! You beauty.
Cheers for the advice Tony and Kevin.

 

[Nizzbits]

Good score for you if the other guy is paying well done. Just FYI for anyone else $259.95 is way too much.
RRP is about $240 and $195 would buy you one.

 

[Cainezo]

The problem continues:

2 months in to replacing this clock spring I'm now getting the airbag warning light in the dash. Incredibly bad timing as I need to get a roadworthy certificate or I legally can't drive my car in the state I now live and this now prevents me from being able to do so.

I still have a horn and cruise control though, and the code I'm getting is 'B1049 drivers airbag module'. So my question is, can the clock spring be damaged but still provide a connection to the horn and cruise control? Or am I looking at needing to replace the module it mentions?

I'm honestly getting to the end of my patience with this car. 3 months of owning it and I've spent over 4 thousand in repairs so far.

 

[KwakaZX10R]

I recently went through this exact same dilemma with my wife's 2006 R51 Pathfinder.

The error code I was receiving with the airbag light on constantly (with the clock spring ending up being the culprit), was something like "Drivers Airbag Open Circuit".

Your error code of " B1049 drivers airbag module" appears to be different to the issue I had and may not be related to the clock spring at all. Check for a loose connection of the airbag wiring harness under the drivers seat (after disconnecting the battery / draining power as Old Tony explained previously). Even try unplugging and plugging back in again.

BTW @Nizzbits I was quoted not two months ago in December 2020, $1,980 for a genuine Nissan Clockspring for a 2006 R51 Pathfinder from a local Nissan dealer......that is correct......$1,980!!!

I ended up purchasing a genuine Nissan clock spring through Clockspringsaustralia for around $250 and cannot fault the excellent advice that was given to me, or the speed of shipping as it was delivered overnight. Clockspringsaustralia were brilliant!

Hope you get it fixed soon mate!

 

[Cainezo]

Thanks so much for getting back to me, I'll definitely give that a whirl tomorrow

 

[Old.Tony]

I've not heard of the airbag modules actually failing. Usually it's the clock spring, but you've discounted that - just make sure the little plug from the clock spring is all the way in the airbag module then reset the system (try with the remove battery lead and open the door trick first, have radio PIN handy).

I've had my diagnostic module fail, which I've replaced (faulty capacitor, and wouldn't you know it, you can't easily buy THAT capacitor). Resetting my car did NOT work. This module lives under the handbrake lever in the auto - remove the cup holders to get access to it, use a T50 security bit to release it, undo the 3 connectors (one main connector plus one for each seat) and replace it (if needed).

I got a second hand one from a wrecker thinking that it was unlikely to have been the cause of a vehicle's accident and it's been fine ever since.

 

[Cainezo]

Thanks Old Tony, much appreciated. I'll make sure to post the result for anyone that may have this issue in the future