Winding up the torsion bars.
- Thread starter STUTE
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BOOGZ STR
Member
Any Chance of getting some pics?? Im not real mechanical when it comes to my Nav (owned commodores all my life)
I have a full OME kit with H/D torsion bars but i'm still not happy with the overall height, it just looks stock. So winding the bars up and some custom shackles will fix that
May have a crack at this next weekend!!
I have a full OME kit with H/D torsion bars but i'm still not happy with the overall height, it just looks stock. So winding the bars up and some custom shackles will fix that
May have a crack at this next weekend!!
Yes. Yes. Rear you will need lowering blocks or a custom springpack shaped for a lower ride height.
The springs on my D21 will give a you a reduced ride height. You want to make an offer for them
K
Krankin
Guest
Go figure.
I've lived in Brisbane, Tewantin, Brisbane again, Wandong, Kilmore, Hawthorn, Wandong again, the Gold Coast, and now Preston.
I'm on my ninth life so hopefully this one lasts.
Hi guys, I've just had a full old man emu kit installed using the stock torsion bars. TJM wouldn't wind them up, said they can't do it any more for legal reasons. So at the moment my nav has the 50mm lift in the rear and stock on the front, which means I now have to do torsion bars myself. I took a few pics so I was hopeing if some people could chime in with hints and directions as I'm going to try this on sat morning. I might sound like an idiot as my car mechanic skills are fairly poor lol but some advice on where to look for max height adjustment would be great.
Thanks in advance, Azza
Thanks in advance, Azza
STUTE
Member
OK man, first pic.
At the top you see two nuts on a long bolt.
Undo the top one, a few turns.
Then with a breakerbar and a 19mm socket, and turn the bolt clockwise.
Start with say 2 turns. Full turns, returning to the spot you started.
Do the top nut back up, let the car off the jack (and stands) and drive the car backwards and forwards a couple of times, about 50 metres, turning the wheel.
Roll the car back to where you were and take a measurement off the top of the front wheel hub and the bottom of the guard.
I wrote my measurements in chalk on the ground.
You will need to make sure both sides are even.
On the front top control arms, you need to make sure you have at LEAST 10mm of gapo between the bumpstop and the control arm.
Go back and repeat step one a couple of times to make sure you get the height you want.
If you have to do more turns on one side, thats ok.
Make sure you havnt maxed out your bolts either, if you put your finger up inside the base you can feel the thread, you should be fine.
I did mine a little different, I did about 5 turns both sides and make no gap in between the bumpstops, then I worked backwards to make sure the gaps were the same and I had equal height on both sides.
If you have to keep re writing your chalk do so, I only did it because I was changing it so often.
Any problems, let me know.
oh, and you will need a wheel alignment afterwards, dont expect it to drive strait, you've changed the whole dynamics of the front suspension.
At the top you see two nuts on a long bolt.
Undo the top one, a few turns.
Then with a breakerbar and a 19mm socket, and turn the bolt clockwise.
Start with say 2 turns. Full turns, returning to the spot you started.
Do the top nut back up, let the car off the jack (and stands) and drive the car backwards and forwards a couple of times, about 50 metres, turning the wheel.
Roll the car back to where you were and take a measurement off the top of the front wheel hub and the bottom of the guard.
I wrote my measurements in chalk on the ground.
You will need to make sure both sides are even.
On the front top control arms, you need to make sure you have at LEAST 10mm of gapo between the bumpstop and the control arm.
Go back and repeat step one a couple of times to make sure you get the height you want.
If you have to do more turns on one side, thats ok.
Make sure you havnt maxed out your bolts either, if you put your finger up inside the base you can feel the thread, you should be fine.
I did mine a little different, I did about 5 turns both sides and make no gap in between the bumpstops, then I worked backwards to make sure the gaps were the same and I had equal height on both sides.
If you have to keep re writing your chalk do so, I only did it because I was changing it so often.
Any problems, let me know.
oh, and you will need a wheel alignment afterwards, dont expect it to drive strait, you've changed the whole dynamics of the front suspension.
Fergo
Member
My nav, with 20k on the clock has suffered the winchbar sag, is a wheel alignment needed if I wind each adjuster up an exact number of turns rather than setting it up by bumpstop gap? I'm not after lift as such I'm just trying to make it sit the way it did when I bought it.
STUTE
Member
each tortion bar is different, you wont be able to do the same turns on each side to get the same result.
You will need a wheel alignment when your finished. Unless you have stacks of cash lying around for new tires.
You will need a wheel alignment when your finished. Unless you have stacks of cash lying around for new tires.
Fergo
Member
There's no cash here mate haha...
I'm going away tomorrow morning for the long weekend so I'm going to wind them up tonight anyway, and I'll book it in next week for an alignment. I shouldn't put more than, say 1000km on it in that time
Joshp82
Member
Just wound mine up. Haven't been touched since new. 72000k on it now.
Drivers side did about 12 or 13 turns passenger only did 5. Sits a lot better now And drives straight down the road.
For anyone that's interested my 2010 D22 needed 22mm spanners and socket not 19mm like mentioned in an earlier post
Drivers side did about 12 or 13 turns passenger only did 5. Sits a lot better now And drives straight down the road.
For anyone that's interested my 2010 D22 needed 22mm spanners and socket not 19mm like mentioned in an earlier post
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There is a lot of good info in this thread - including some good food for thought on the limitations that come with raising the suspension height.
The one bit of information I'm not following is quoted above. Why would the OEM arms be stronger than aftermarket?
To quote from the Calmini website - "CALMINI arms are precision laser cut from 3/8"plate steel and will last longer than the life of the truck! These are the strongest and most durable arms available....."
Looks like the Snake Racing arms are a derivative of Calmini also.
Are the standard OEM arms something special - I would have presumed not?
Navd22yd25cr
Member
Anyone post pics of how much gap theyve got between there upper control arm and bump stop?
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