What did you do to your navara today?
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tony d22
Member
That's a bit early isn't it.
Mine is just about to hit 100 000 and still on original rotors and pads, not even machined yet.
Plus it's gotta pull a work trailer to a stop as well.
I sometimes wonder if stock D40 rotors are made by King Island Dairy Company and matured in wax for 8 months before installation. I dunno, I wonder if Nissan think they need to be made of something that would find playdoh a challenge in terms of hardness.
My car also had its rotors replaced at the 40,000km service.
D22s are a little lighter at the kerb and not supposed to drive like a sports car, which I think was Nissan's goal with the D40 as it leaves the factory, so they put softer rotors that bite better.
Problem been when Nissan was bought out by Renault bought Nissan they changed some of the brake design to a more European style. European rotors wear faster as fast as pads, why don't know don't care. I've had bendix pads installed and my mechanic hopes they will be nicer on the rotors so we may get 2 sets of pads out the rotors.
I had two D40's one is still on the road with over 140,000km's (my brother i-nlaw now owns) still stock rotors and my other D40 had almost 80k on it with all the stock brakes still on it and they were not even 50% worn.
It may have something to do with the AUTO gearbox owners not having any engine braking and being heavier on the stop peddle??
It may have something to do with the AUTO gearbox owners not having any engine braking and being heavier on the stop peddle??
rastik86
Member
Chucked in 7W LED reverse lights (eBay specials). Super bright white light, heaps better to when reversing
EdgeLectrics
Member
Tidied up some wiring on the D22. If the turbo timer, air compressor, driving lights and immobiliser were installed by a professional, they should consider a career change.
It's a bloody mess.
I want to change the immobiliser out for a full remote central locking controller alarm system. I'm not a fan of how this one operates.
Tomorrows job is to buy a switch for the driving lights and wire them back in and conduct a liqui moly fuel purge.
It's a bloody mess.
I want to change the immobiliser out for a full remote central locking controller alarm system. I'm not a fan of how this one operates.
Tomorrows job is to buy a switch for the driving lights and wire them back in and conduct a liqui moly fuel purge.
Huba
Member
Done my 30k service, dealing with the Nissan service people is a real challenge.
Half a year of waiting for a new steering-wheel and still waiting ;-/ apparently, they will fix it next week.
Did anyone hear that Nissan recommends to do a wheel aliment every service???
Half a year of waiting for a new steering-wheel and still waiting ;-/ apparently, they will fix it next week.
Did anyone hear that Nissan recommends to do a wheel aliment every service???
Patski
Member
Have done a bit of work on mine over the past few weeks which I thought I'd keep to one post.
- Fitted genuine D22 Alloy Bullbar
- Fitted 7" HID Spotlights
- Fitted Oricom UHF & Uniden Antenna
Been slowly picking up the parts above and threw them all in recently. Next on my list is a 2" lift...so now tossing up whether to buy a kit or perhaps get bit by bit. Won't be for a bit though, forked out a bit of money recently - for my standards lol. I'm also pretty confident the shocks in my Navara are the standard ones that came with it as they are GOD AWFUL.
- Fitted genuine D22 Alloy Bullbar
- Fitted 7" HID Spotlights
- Fitted Oricom UHF & Uniden Antenna
Been slowly picking up the parts above and threw them all in recently. Next on my list is a 2" lift...so now tossing up whether to buy a kit or perhaps get bit by bit. Won't be for a bit though, forked out a bit of money recently - for my standards lol. I'm also pretty confident the shocks in my Navara are the standard ones that came with it as they are GOD AWFUL.
Understand able been every 10,000kms. I get mine done then too. The D40 well mine does seems to eat wheels aliments
bods
Member
I've only ever had 1 done on my d22 and that was when the torsion bars were adjusted. Only rotated three once too, unless they did it when they serviced it... But nearly up to 50k now and still got a bit left in the standard tyres....
On that note, I found and fixed the thump/rattle noise from my exhaust on takeoff.. Turns out it was way too close to one of the bolts that the heat shield is held on by, so solution, remove mid section of exhaust, get grinder on to bolt and cut it down level with the nut, refit exhaust and voila all fixed....
On that note, I found and fixed the thump/rattle noise from my exhaust on takeoff.. Turns out it was way too close to one of the bolts that the heat shield is held on by, so solution, remove mid section of exhaust, get grinder on to bolt and cut it down level with the nut, refit exhaust and voila all fixed....
camo.b
Member
Started my turbo replacement tonight...broke 3 out of 4 turbo to manifold bolts.ended up pulling to exhaust manifold off to remove them.heated...quenched heated again...wouldnt budge..drilled them out instead.couldnt remove the old turbos studs either,would have wrecked them in the process..stole the same studs from the leftover cat. refitt everything tomorrow with the new forefront turbo and the half built 3" pipes
ShortyNavros
Member
DIY shock armour
I upgraded my D22 and gave it some bilstein shocks front and rear, got worried about the rear left shock as it is very exposed and I was worried about stone damage due to it being a monotube design. So I used my old intake manifold rubber hose (which I replaced with silicon) and cut it up into rectangular sections and used some gasket clamps to hold it onto the shock body, I used some thin strips of rubber where the clamps are so the main rubber parts are up off the shock body so as to not retain too much heat and still allow a small air gap between the rubber and the shock body. All I had to buy was 3 hose clamps from bunnings.
I upgraded my D22 and gave it some bilstein shocks front and rear, got worried about the rear left shock as it is very exposed and I was worried about stone damage due to it being a monotube design. So I used my old intake manifold rubber hose (which I replaced with silicon) and cut it up into rectangular sections and used some gasket clamps to hold it onto the shock body, I used some thin strips of rubber where the clamps are so the main rubber parts are up off the shock body so as to not retain too much heat and still allow a small air gap between the rubber and the shock body. All I had to buy was 3 hose clamps from bunnings.
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unknownspeedster
Member
made up a rear shelf and some storage for my fridge and second battery today. quite happy with the result considering total material cost was only $80.
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mickymac
Member
Today I fitted
Brown Davis under guard protection plates, and over the last couple of weeks or so I have
1 Fitted Outback Drawers
2 Fitted 4x4 concepts pillar pod
3 fitted autometer Phantom Boost and EGT guages
4 Fitted Beaudesert 2 3/4 exhaust
5 Fitted DP Chip
40mm suspension lift by ARB
Steering damper and Idler brace kit.
Now I need to rob a bank lol
Brown Davis under guard protection plates, and over the last couple of weeks or so I have
1 Fitted Outback Drawers
2 Fitted 4x4 concepts pillar pod
3 fitted autometer Phantom Boost and EGT guages
4 Fitted Beaudesert 2 3/4 exhaust
5 Fitted DP Chip
40mm suspension lift by ARB
Steering damper and Idler brace kit.
Now I need to rob a bank lol
Aussie141414
Member
Bought a D40 ST series 7. TJM 2" lift, 18" rockstar rims and 285/70r18 going on next week. On the 25th getting it totally plasti dipped matte Black.
