warming up your engine?

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Who starts with the clutch in anyhow? In gear, clutch out, turn the key off we go! :sarcastic:



Hey Krankin, it's not your Nav on the front page of the North Central Review is it? :devil:

dunno mate, hav'nt seen the paper
whats it about, will get a copy 2moro
 
Who starts with the clutch in anyhow? In gear, clutch out, turn the key off we go! :sarcastic:

Had to do that in the 8 Tonne Mitsu 3 times from when I was delivering bread to Phillip Island. First time the clutch shit itself on the way home so I had to tackle South Gippy Highway through Cranborune in morning peak with no clutch. Second time was the following night when we found out the mechanic forgot to do the job properly and I had to do 3/4's of the run without the clutch and the third time was atleast half the run after the clutch crapped out again because they are crap.

Being mobile isn't an issue match the revs and it changes no problems but stopping at lights and intersections means thinking ahead as far as possible and trying to avoid having to bring the truck to a complete stop as often as possible. 42 deliveries a day and nearly 600 k round trip the fun of double clutching and matching revs does where off, especially when it happens twice in a week. But it's better than being stranded somewhere down near the island with only crappy late night radio to listen too and spending 18 hours on the road instead of 12.
 
Warming up is important . Im a diesel fitter (mechanic) and have seen to many results of no warm up . the biggest problem is the pistons swell quicker than the block and can cause them to grab thus scoring the block . i have seen them grab bad enough that it broke a con rod and punched a hole in the block. (Leg outa bed). it doesnt need to get to full operating temp . soon as the temp gauge starts to move a bit is fine to go .
 
Warming up is important . Im a diesel fitter (mechanic) and have seen to many results of no warm up . the biggest problem is the pistons swell quicker than the block and can cause them to grab thus scoring the block . i have seen them grab bad enough that it broke a con rod and punched a hole in the block. (Leg outa bed). it doesnt need to get to full operating temp . soon as the temp gauge starts to move a bit is fine to go .

That would take 20 minutes on a typical Melbourne morning!. I'm not that patient.
 
Ideally our engines would have jacket water preheaters and lub oil priming pumps that run whenever the engine is stopped so that when the key is turned there is oil at the bearings and everything is uniformly heated, as most engine wear comes from when the engine is cold and there is no oil at the bearings when the engine first starts. The major issue with heat is that different components heat and expand at different rates. All medium/large ship engines have this type of setup and last for years when they run almost all day everyday. We have engines with 30000 hours on them in about 8 years of operation that have never had bearings looked at let alone changed and they will be expected to run for at least another 10 years.
 
I guess you have to weigh up convenience, against longevity of your engine. Seeing as I trade up every 3 years, a bit of wear isn't going to worry me, besides seeing as the Thai build air filter don't even filter out normal on road grime and dust, a bit of start up wear is the least of our problems.
 

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But what escapes me is your logic about drag racing engines and everyday vehicle engines - the comparison between the two. The two are built to entirely different tolerances (as are formula one engines, which wont even rotate - they are completely locked up - until they are approaching operating temperature) and specifications. But then it's your logic, not mine - it doesn't have to make sense to me.


......not wanting to revive anything, but an explanation to my posts in my comparisons to everyday street cars/engines.

Unlike F1 cars/engines,
our cars we race are all 'FACTORY PRODUCTION cars and engines, although modified and some heavily,
nonetheless FACTORY, Holdens, Fords and Valiants that EVERYONE can buy.
Clearances and settings, for the most part a same as factory, excepting oil pressures and slightly enlarged piston to wall clearances on high output boat engines.

Anyways,
Cheers.
 
......not wanting to revive anything, but an explanation to my posts in my comparisons to everyday street cars/engines.

Unlike F1 cars/engines,
our cars we race are all 'FACTORY PRODUCTION cars and engines, although modified and some heavily,
nonetheless FACTORY, Holdens, Fords and Valiants that EVERYONE can buy.
Clearances and settings, for the most part a same as factory, excepting oil pressures and slightly enlarged piston to wall clearances on high output boat engines.

Anyways,
Cheers.

You can still buy Valiants?:sarcastic:
 
Don't know if it has been said or not, But i remember reading in my parents patrol owners manual, it is noted that if you don't pre warm the engine, don't rev the motor over 2000rpm until it is up to operating temp. so, as long as you don't flat out drive it straight up then its not a problem, in the morning on the way to work all 50Km/h zone to work, I glow it wait until oil light goes off, maybe few seconds more while i buckle up, then idle out of my complex, and then don't go over 2000rpm until it is warm. mum and dad have done the same with their patrols (Current 3.0L 2007-2008 GU 150,000+ KM) and it is still going strong, one before was a 2.8L and it died with 380,000Km and that was because natrad stuffed the radiator and it cracked a cylinder.
 
I was just thinking about this today, my d22 has done a few ks now, I always leave it warm up a bit, anywhere from 1min to 10 mins, with the heat switch on, ive never actually just started the car with the engine completely cold and driven off.
 

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