The D.I.Y. ZD30 remap thread.

[ShortyNavros]

I sent an email enquiry to nistune about whether they do ZD30 ecus now or in the future, this is their response.

Hi Alex

There are no plans at the moment. I've got one of these here and couldn't
make sense of it

Regards
Matt Brown
Managing Director

 

[Rumpig]

I sent an email enquiry to nistune about whether they do ZD30 ecus now or in the future, this is their response.

Hi Alex

There are no plans at the moment. I've got one of these here and couldn't
make sense of it

Regards
Matt Brown
Managing Director

Makes me feel better about not having worked out the boost cut yet!

 

[ShortyNavros]

Haha sure of it mate

 

[Rumpig]

Haven't done a lot lately as my anti-virus software turned on me and deleted the " not quite legit " version of the program I was using. It took me a while to find another copy and get it working, then recover what I had already done. I still haven't worked out what particular map causes the boost cut above 18 psi so I've just maxed out 6 2d maps which stops the boost cut but isn't really the best way of doing it as the only limiter now is probably the smoke map.

This lets me keep playing with "start of injection" and I can always go back later and work out what is going on. The plan is to fine tune the 21psi tune then go back and look at the 17 and 15 psi tunes and then stick it on a dyno and see what the air fuel ratios look like. I'm basically just tuning for pedal response and a max EGT of around 700c before the turbo, checking it on a dyno for AFRs should let me know how safe it all is.

 

[ShortyNavros]

I finally got my ECU socketed an installed your tune Rumpig, took it for a spin last night and it really is quite responsive down low!

I also installed a 3 inch exhaust yesterday and before the ecu upgrade I hardly noticed any difference in power. I don't have an EGT guage or boost gauge yet so those are on the to do list when I get back from holidays.

 

[ShortyNavros]

The exhaust should keep me under safe EGTs anyway I dont do any tow work yet so running the current set up un gauged should be fine for me

 

[Rumpig]

Yeah you'll be fine, I kept it safe temp wise. I was wondering if you had the ecu socketed yet, it is definitely harder than it looks on youtube.

 

[ShortyNavros]

I would just like to re-iterate Rumpig, getting a new ECU socketed and running your re-MAP is the best bang for buck mod I have done, it is like driving a different car.

I installed a 3 inch exhaust just before hand and I know people talk about power gains from an exhaust but to me it wasn't even perceivable, just makes a nice noise. Not sure if it is all helping but with the exhaust I also run an 80 series air box with a snorkel.

Regardless, I think a bog stock navara would still feel amazingly different with just the new socketed ECU and your re-map

 

[Rumpig]

BenW has been trying a spare ecu I've got and he says the same thing, his only real mod is a top mount intercooler, the rest is stock. Definitely better down low.

 

[Ben_W]

Yes, I definitely concur. Rumpig's tune made a big difference to throttle response- made the thing fun to drive. I have an egt gauge and I didn't notice any real increase in temps post remap so I certainly wouldn't stress too much about that.

 

[rastik86]

This has me really interested. Especially the talk of of getting off the mark quicker.

How's the fuel economy go with these remapped ECU s? Changed for better or worse or stayed the same?

 

[ShortyNavros]

Hey rastik. I just did a drive down to brissy and I got 10.17L/100km. Before I got rumpigs remap and I installed a 3 inch exhaust (I felt not power difference with the exhaust alone) I was getting about 10.5-10.7L/100km but that was more variable driving, down to brissy was mainly highway kms. But in saying that I would say fuel.consumption is the same if not marginally better.

 

[rastik86]

Hey rastik. I just did a drive down to brissy and I got 10.17L/100km. Before I got rumpigs remap and I installed a 3 inch exhaust (I felt not power difference with the exhaust alone) I was getting about 10.5-10.7L/100km but that was more variable driving, down to brissy was mainly highway kms. But in saying that I would say fuel.consumption is the same if not marginally better.

Thanks Shorty. That's good to hear. Now to investigate ECUs and socketing!

Thanks for the info and effort Rumpig. Great job.

 

[ShortyNavros]

Just an update, I got 9.9L/100km this tank, that is about a 70/30 highway/town mix driving. First time I have been under the 10L/100km mark since puting the 265/75s on. When I was using stock sized tyres I was getting 9.1-9.5L/100km. If I went back to 265/70s I would say my consumption would be below 9L/100km, pretty bloody good.

 

[Rumpig]

So I stuck it on the dyno the other day to see how the Air Fuel Ratios look.
The graphs are a bit messy to look at because they show 9 different runs on the one page, the first one being the original unmolested ecu and 15 psi of boost, the next 4 being runs at the same boost level with my remap, the only difference between the 4 being changes to the Start of Injection which made no difference, then 2 runs at 17psi and 2 runs at 21 psi. I've written on the pics to give you an idea of what's what.
The AFR's on the factory ecu are very lean ( not a problem on diesels ), starting at 24-1, dropping down near 20 then going back up around 29-1. Generally afrs between 18 and 22 are considered good. With my remap AFRs are extremely rich to begin with, dropping down to 13 before peaking at 24. On the dyno the runs are done in 4th gear starting at 1200rpm under load, this isn't a situation you would normally drive in, you'd change down a gear, but i'll be changing the maps to fix this, as well as adding some fuel from 2400 rpm to lower ratios down from 24.
Peak torque on the original ecu is 230 nm and with the remap without changing boost or anything else it.s gone to 310 nm, a gain of about 30%.The remap hits the original torque peak of 230nm at 1500rpm as opposed to 2250rpm in stock form.
From here i'll make changes based on the AFRs and see what changes I get in driveablity.

 

[andrew0]

Good stuff! Maybe time for a career change? The patrol ecus the same setup, like need to socket the ecus and similar maps?

 

[ShortyNavros]

Nice work Rumpig, unsure on the dyno read outs, hard to decypher that info haha. So the optimal boost to be running is about 17 psi? Seeing as the AFR are a little rich down low upping the boost from factory should help a bit?

 

[Rumpig]

Good stuff! Maybe time for a career change? The patrol ecus the same setup, like need to socket the ecus and similar maps?

Early Di Patrols will be the same, CRDs will be done thru the OBD2 port I believe. Immobilizer will be a problem, you'd have to socket your original ecu.

 

[Rumpig]

Nice work Rumpig, unsure on the dyno read outs, hard to decypher that info haha. So the optimal boost to be running is about 17 psi? Seeing as the AFR are a little rich down low upping the boost from factory should help a bit?

17psi has a little more torque. It's more a case of reducing fueling down low to match the boost. To get more boost down that low you would have to change the turbo to something with a smaller A/R ratio so it spools quicker.

 

[ShortyNavros]

Ah righto. And you can adjust the fuel down low to suit? Also I assume you found the boost cut map if you did runs at 21 psi?