Snorkle/pre cleaner sealed?

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barna

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Hey guys I fitted my own snorkle to my 3.0lt 06 nav on the weekend and it was a bit tricky but it come good in the end. Has any one actually checked there cyclone pre-cleaner for leaks? because mine was like a f...ing colander.The pre-cleaner is not a sealed part, it is just sheet metal shaped and rolled and basicly pressed together.I strongly recomend taking it out and having a look, otherwise there is no point having a snorkle when water can pour straight in it . I just sikaflexed mine all around the joins and seems ok.there was nothing in the snorkle kit about sealing the pre-cleaner.
 
I had to take the pre cleaner out to do the job, and I thought i would give it a bit of a clean out with the compressor.
You can see if you look at the rectangle section that comes out the top of the pre cleaner, when I looked into it I could see bits of daylight.
On mine the pre cleaner has got about 2 or 3 tacks of weld on it just to hold it all in place.My pre cleaner would deffinetly get water in it if I went through a crossing, But I sikaflexed every join on the pre cleaner and now should be right.

I also sealed the rubber flaps on the bottom side of the pre cleaner that lets dirt out,I dont no what its called I just did'nt trust it.I thought i would take it of each service and let any dirt out then.

In my books its a must to check it if you got a snorkle .

It could save you a lot of $$$$$$$$$$.
 
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i sika'd up the duckbill valve and the pipe that joins from snorkle. i might take another look. after you sealed yours up can you still clean it out ok now you have sealed it up?
 
Do you guys reckon its better to use sikaflex or silicone?
Surely silicone would do the job, and still be removable?
 
sika is gonna stick better, streach better and last longer. also silicone will get mouldy in time, not that the air is there will be that damp. i'd personally would only use sika (or any polyurethane sealant). if you use silicone make sure it is neutral cure (ie acidtic not going to eat into metal)
 
oh and sika is gonna be just as easy to remove if need be, just scrape off with something sharp like a knife or paint scrapper. both are a pain to remove.
 
i sika'd up the duckbill valve and the pipe that joins from snorkle. i might take another look. after you sealed yours up can you still clean it out ok now you have sealed it up?

Yeah, I think i can just get my hand in to take of the little rubber flap thing under the pre cleaner.It just pops of,and I think if I take that of when I service any rubbish will fall out. I asked a bloke that does these snorkles for living and he did'nt trust the rubber flap thing either, he just sikaflexes them up.

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06 3.0lt TD ZD30 STR
 
You guys got me a little paranoid, so today i spent a couple hours and pulled the whole snorkel setup off and put it back on and sikaflexed all the joins up. Should be all good now. :victory:
 
Nah didnt se any holes, just sika'd up all the seams, duckbill valve, and all the joins in the pipework.
 
i tested my set up when i put my snorkel on. I have a smoke machine designed for testing vac systems and manifolds so i shoved it up the turbo to air filter pipe and filled the system then blanked off the snorkel.

I got a few small leaks on the pre filter but the worst bit was the pre filter to air filter pipe where is joins the airfilter, with that silly triangle shapped connection, i had already sika'd it and it still leaking so i put more on the outside and smeard it about then once it has set got the good old duck tape out and wrapped it, and no more leaks. that was with about 2psi up it.

i still think you would get more water in the snorkel in the rain than you would through any of the holes i found in mine while sitting window deep in a big puddle.
 
u can test for air leaks by putting a durable plastic cover over the head nad see if the car stalls...thats how ARB tests their snorkels...u musnt do it a lot of times as it causes stress on the softer components.
 
i tested my set up when i put my snorkel on. I have a smoke machine designed for testing vac systems and manifolds so i shoved it up the turbo to air filter pipe and filled the system then blanked off the snorkel.

I got a few small leaks on the pre filter but the worst bit was the pre filter to air filter pipe where is joins the airfilter, with that silly triangle shapped connection, i had already sika'd it and it still leaking so i put more on the outside and smeard it about then once it has set got the good old duck tape out and wrapped it, and no more leaks. that was with about 2psi up it.

i still think you would get more water in the snorkel in the rain than you would through any of the holes i found in mine while sitting window deep in a big puddle.

My pre cleaner had a 6mm opening in one spot and i just could'nt stand the thought of water getting in when i just spent a day fitting the snorkle to my truck to keep water out when going through a crossing.
It did'nt make any sense having leaks in the system after all that.
 
yeh i agree, hence why when i was bored i tested mine

And starving the system of air will only let you know of any major leaks, at idle the engine sucks say 50cf/m of air so if you have a leak that allows 15cf/m of air in the car will still stall, take a while but eventually. (just guessed figures but you get the idea?)
 
are tiny leaks really a problem? i mean small amounts of water will be absorbed by the filter anyway. i reckon unless you sit in the water for some time its only large leaks that could be of harm.
 
are tiny leaks really a problem? i mean small amounts of water will be absorbed by the filter anyway. i reckon unless you sit in the water for some time its only large leaks that could be of harm.

i read in this months 4wd action mag that a tea spoon of water is enough to fk a diesel motor more so a common rail *sighs*
 
yeah if it gets past the filter into the engine. but a teaspon of sugar will easily get aborbed going past the filter.
 

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