What Doc said.
Reduce tyre pressures to around 26psi or so.
The bouncing you're getting is also from a combination of shock and spring. Springs too firm for the load and it'll bounce hard - see how yours reacts on a shopping centre carpark speedhump. If your tail kicks upwards, your springs are too tight (or you've hit the bump stop!).
Repeated compression of the suspension is dampened by the shock absorbers (which should more accurately be named "motion dampeners"). On corrugations, if the shocks are too restrictive, they won't allow the axle to travel to keep the vehicle weight on the ground. Under these conditions, most shock absorbers heat up rapidly - it's the natural consequence of squeezing oil through small apertures. This heat does get destructive - it will cause the valving to fail inside the shock, reducing its effectiveness (possibly to zero).
Every company will tell you their shocks are the best for your vehicle. My advice is to ignore MOST of what they say and pay attention to the important bits.
First, selecting a shock should probably be done for the harsher of the two terrains you drive on - we have excellent off-road shocks on our car, and they handle the bitument beautifully.
Now the shock you choose should be able to handle the heat. Not only handle it - but SHED it as well. Thin shocks just won't (rules out Dobinson, Monroe and quite a few others). Heavier (thicker) shocks are what to aim for - more oil, greater internal surface area = physically capable of dissipating more heat.
You might also consider replacing the springs - look for multi-rate springs. OME do a dual-rate leaf that is more than capable of handling light loads and heavy ones. Sax Suspension do a triple-rate spring and may have resolved their operational issues so they'd be well worth looking at too.
Reduce tyre pressures to around 26psi or so.
The bouncing you're getting is also from a combination of shock and spring. Springs too firm for the load and it'll bounce hard - see how yours reacts on a shopping centre carpark speedhump. If your tail kicks upwards, your springs are too tight (or you've hit the bump stop!).
Repeated compression of the suspension is dampened by the shock absorbers (which should more accurately be named "motion dampeners"). On corrugations, if the shocks are too restrictive, they won't allow the axle to travel to keep the vehicle weight on the ground. Under these conditions, most shock absorbers heat up rapidly - it's the natural consequence of squeezing oil through small apertures. This heat does get destructive - it will cause the valving to fail inside the shock, reducing its effectiveness (possibly to zero).
Every company will tell you their shocks are the best for your vehicle. My advice is to ignore MOST of what they say and pay attention to the important bits.
First, selecting a shock should probably be done for the harsher of the two terrains you drive on - we have excellent off-road shocks on our car, and they handle the bitument beautifully.
Now the shock you choose should be able to handle the heat. Not only handle it - but SHED it as well. Thin shocks just won't (rules out Dobinson, Monroe and quite a few others). Heavier (thicker) shocks are what to aim for - more oil, greater internal surface area = physically capable of dissipating more heat.
You might also consider replacing the springs - look for multi-rate springs. OME do a dual-rate leaf that is more than capable of handling light loads and heavy ones. Sax Suspension do a triple-rate spring and may have resolved their operational issues so they'd be well worth looking at too.
