Running power to the rear, how did you do it.

[terryc]

I'm looking for ideas, tips, thoughts on installing the power cable to go to the rear of the tub, to top up the CT batteries when moving.

Plans are to tap into the LH(passenger) battery via an isolator(GSL: 12V 100amp - lot smaller than I expected) which will be mounted under the air filter on the two holes in the front wheel shroud(jargon?).

Ground for the isolator and the return(black wire) will be lugged and bolted under each of the LH battery ground spot bolts.

After the isolator, there will be a Fuse(blade in a inline case), then it is a pair of 16mm sq cables to the rear.

Initial inspection suggests basically running it as much as I can on top of the sub frame and held on by stainless cable ties.

Should I put it into the plastic corrugated stuff?

There will be a final loop of slack, then the Anderson plug will be mounted tow bar. I'm not really sure about that as it is basically the lowest point on the body, but that is where the local Nissan mount the trailer lighting socket.

As another question, is there an easy way inside the tub? I would eventually like to put a second outlet inside the tub to charge a couple of loose batteries. The only "hole" appears to be right at the front up under the lip, which I hop will allow a cable to be poked up from underneath.

 

[Old.Tony]

I know you know what you're doing with the cable, and 16sqmm is going to be just fine (although I'm ripping mine out and putting 10mm weld flex in).

The entry you've noted into the tub is probably the best way in. There is a gap near the tail lights - I can't see in mine for the liner and canopy, but my canopy wiring comes out near the top of the tail lights. If you had a bus bar (in a box) under the rear somewhere and ran thinner cable (say 8sqmm) into the tub from there I reckon you'd not have any drama. That's how I intend to do mine.

I am also changing my power delivery to the rear. I've got a 12-pin flat socket (standard 7 pin trailer plug with 5 "high current" pins). I will keep that, but I'm adding an Anderson plug. The 12-pin plugs don't like the 6sqmm wire (have to shave the wire a little for it to fit) so I've slowly been talking myself into changing it over to something that won't produce a hot spot. That, and the fact that the new caravan DEMANDS an Anderson plug be fitted is pretty convincing. Not getting the new van just yet (not ready to spend $95K) but want the vehicle to be ready. It's also a good upgrade for the current caravan which should make it even better for whoever scores it when we let it go.

 

[04SilverSTR]

if its a d22 take the tail light off, the you will see a gap were you bring wires up in to tub by drilling a hole in the panel behind the light!!

bryan

 

[mitch92]

definitely run in the cable in corro or something.

 

[joe2006]

Mine is Redarc isolator near the main battery (fused between).
6 B & S cable in split tube inside chassis rail.
Up into area behind tailight & in through existing gap in tub (ARB wanted to drill a hole in tub for brake light when installing the canopy but I insisted they use the gap which they said was not there!).
Another re-settable fuse to 2nd battery.
From 2nd battery (again fused) back through gap in tub behind tailight to anderson plug on towbar.
I do have extra anderson plugs in the tub so that I can disconnect the 2nd battery from the main battery & the anderson plug on the towbar to the second battery. This means that I can bypass the second battery completely but still have power to the anderson plug on the towbar or visa versa.

This probably sounds very confusing but if I say much more, it will only get worse.

To be sure I ran positive & negative back to the main battery & did not use the chassis or body as earth.

I do have photos of the arrangement inside the tub if of any interest.

 

[joshman]

I drilled a hole and used an water proof (IP68 rated) cable gland in the top of the drivers side wheel arch, and ran my cables through that. Then I sikaflexed the heck out of it to properly seal it. It's neat and out of the way. Whatever you do, make sure you properly protect the cable from damage by using coro and not exposing it to and bare metal edges.

 

[isiman]

Probably be careful of the stainless cable ties as they tend to bite a bit especially when hitting corrugations. Plus they hurt like buggery when you slice your fingers on them

 

[terryc]

6 B & S cable in split tube inside chassis rail.

For how long has it been installed?
My memory of corri/corro/? is that it is thin plastic and I'm worried about there being rub points in side the chassis rail that might cut through it relatively quickly. Otherwise, it seem ideal to me.

This probably sounds very confusing but if I say much more, it will only get worse.
......
I do have photos of the arrangement inside the tub if of any interest.

I know what you are getting at and to be honest I haven't fully decided.

If I can find this hole people are alluding to, then I might follow your routing for the moment as day tripping from a base camp is our preferred type of "trip".

If a picture is easy to upload, then great.

Thank you to people for their comments.

 

[joe2006]

I also considered the durability of the split tube, particulary in the chassis rails given that it is not tied at any point & could be subject to rubbing. The alternatives were running the wires underneath the car which I figured would have far more potential to be damaged or running them inside the cab which I was never going to do. Besides the positive is fused at both ends & I figured that the chances are I will die of old age before there are any issues. I must say though you have me a bit worried now, particularly given that it had only been installed for a few months & there might be some sharp nasties in there..

I have also run some wires in poly tube (the irrigation stuff) which I reckon is a lot tougher. That is also inside the chassis butI found it a bit harder to use because it is not split & tended to get snagged when I was pulling both the wire through the tube & the tube through the chassis. I still had to use split tube at the ends to go around bends anyway.

I have attached some photos (although I think you only wanted one but please entertain me ). One pair of anderson plugs have some black tape on them so I can identify which one comes from the main battery (must pretty that up someday). If I want to disconnect the 2nd battery but still use the anderson plug on the towbar, I disconnect the anderson plugs & join the 2 top plugs together. If I don't want power going to the anderson plug on the towbar, I unplug it from the second battery.

The anderson plug thing might not interest you but just in case, you can get bulk quantities of original anderson plugs quite cheap from a seller on e-bay.

The last photo shows the location of the wires going through the gap behind the tailight. Mine is a D40 but I see that people with D22's have made the same comment about a gap. Mine is under the lip of the tub, right at the top of the panel behind the tailight. I must say that having 4 x 6B&S cables in split tube & a brake light in split tube going through the same gap, space was tight & to prevent the wires being cut through by the edge of panel, I bent the edge down slightly to give it a lip.

Not sure if any of this helps or just convinces what not to do

 

[terryc]

Joe
Thanks for the photos. Interesting.

Ag pipe seems the best(thickest), but as you say, tough to bend.
I guess it will be suck it and see inside the chassis rail, but with fuses at either end, there shouldn't be any real problems.

If anyone is interested, I purchased the bulk of my stuff from
Anderson Power Connections
and purchased a 25 pack of grey SD50 (less than $4 each). It is the handles and dusk covers that get your pocket.

 

[joe2006]

Terry,

I bought my plugs from an Australian seller:
10 x GENUINE Anderson plug Connectors SB50 50amp Bulk | eBay

They work out to $2.70 each when you purchase 10.

I bought the re-settable circuit breakers from ABR Sidewinder although after I ordered, saw that I could have got the same ones form an overseas seller on e-bay a lot cheaper. I keep telling myself that it is good to keep the money in the country. The thing is they would have been purchased from overseas by the Australian seller anyway.

Hey hope it all goes to plan whatever you do.

 

[tastech]

Guy's if you want better insulation of you cable try using rubber hose. You know, like fuel line or heater hose.

This'll last for years inside the chassis.

Cheers
Tastech

 

[KraftyPg]

Wouldn't the cables clog up the fuel lines?

 

[terryc]

Wouldn't the cables clog up the fuel lines?

Only if you don't adjust the internal size.
You have to take into account not only the area of the power cables but the coefficent of friction from the insulation on the power cables. Apparently some insulation is pretty slaggy in this regard. If you do a web search, you can find the formulae somewhere on the web. There is even an open source program that you can get hold of to plug all these values into, then set it off o an overnight run(bogomips > 10K).)

 

[Mahooody]

i ran 50mm2 flex to my 3rd rear battery and just and just hard wired it to my auxilary battery so i dont have to worry at all bout cable size even when winching.

 

[terryc]

i ran 50mm2 flex to my 3rd rear battery.

Where did you get that from?
<Or shouldn't I ask>


In choosing my anderson plugs, I went with ones(50amp) that would allow the tyre pump(arb) to be plugged in. Decided it was a bit premature to wire for the movable winch.

 

[Mahooody]

A mate who is a sparkie hooked me up 20mtrs for $50 so cheap lol

 

[TigerST]

I also considered the durability of the split tube, particulary in the chassis rails given that it is not tied at any point & could be subject to rubbing. The alternatives were running the wires underneath the car which I figured would have far more potential to be damaged or running them inside the cab which I was never going to do. Besides the positive is fused at both ends & I figured that the chances are I will die of old age before there are any issues. I must say though you have me a bit worried now, particularly given that it had only been installed for a few months & there might be some sharp nasties in there..

I have also run some wires in poly tube (the irrigation stuff) which I reckon is a lot tougher. That is also inside the chassis butI found it a bit harder to use because it is not split & tended to get snagged when I was pulling both the wire through the tube & the tube through the chassis. I still had to use split tube at the ends to go around bends anyway.

I have attached some photos (although I think you only wanted one but please entertain me ). One pair of anderson plugs have some black tape on them so I can identify which one comes from the main battery (must pretty that up someday). If I want to disconnect the 2nd battery but still use the anderson plug on the towbar, I disconnect the anderson plugs & join the 2 top plugs together. If I don't want power going to the anderson plug on the towbar, I unplug it from the second battery.

The anderson plug thing might not interest you but just in case, you can get bulk quantities of original anderson plugs quite cheap from a seller on e-bay.

The last photo shows the location of the wires going through the gap behind the tailight. Mine is a D40 but I see that people with D22's have made the same comment about a gap. Mine is under the lip of the tub, right at the top of the panel behind the tailight. I must say that having 4 x 6B&S cables in split tube & a brake light in split tube going through the same gap, space was tight & to prevent the wires being cut through by the edge of panel, I bent the edge down slightly to give it a lip.

Not sure if any of this helps or just convinces what not to do

Thanks Mate,

Been doing my head in trying to work it out. Everyone I talked to said about drilling a hole in the tub. It's stuff that less holes the better.

 

[GeoCal]

I ended up running the cable for my Fridge and lightning down the passenger chassis rail in corrugated conduit.
It pops out just near the exhaust from the turbo. Obviously into the fuse for the line.
As for appearing in the tub, jumps out of the rail near the Rear Passenger wheel and slips up a cavity in the back left hand corner of the tub. Then into distribution etc..
It is at slight risk of rocks etc hitting it coming off the wheel, however i have tucked most of it up out of the way. I would rather that than drilling through the tub. It comes out at the perfect spot.
There has been no damage whatsoever to the conduit even after 20,000 and a trip to Cape York.
'She'll be right mate'

I have pictures of it somewhere around here....

 

[albatross]

So I have run my cables to the tub ok, but Iv now got another question,
Where has everyone run the earthing cable from the second battery in the tub to?! Im trying to look for a suitable place but want to make sure im not missing so obvious that I will feel like a goose!!!