Bakes
Member
If it is still under warranty it is Nissans responsibility to get the tail shaft checked, especially since they acknowledged the problem.
Np300 stx vibration
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If it is still under warranty it is Nissans responsibility to get the tail shaft checked, especially since they acknowledged the problem.
kylejamesstat
Member
So I was wondering if anyone ended up with an answer for this and is it resolved now
Vibration in my Nissan Navara 2017 ST 4x4 auto 1.5 months old, its, not shaking like mad as some of you but a I can hear a vibration, only feel slight vibration from 90-95km/h, more audible at 100km/h peaks at 105 km/h and on 110km same noise level as 100km.h, at 120km/h its similar to 90km/h almost bearable. Best described as a big diesel train sound in the distance but present in the cab (very annoying on a long journey at 100 - 110km/h)
I replaced tyres with A/T straight from the dealer so never had change to hear problem on original tyres , I visited the tyre centre before taking it to the dealer to check balance(wheels were rebalanced and no change to vibration), with 1000 km service I brought vibration issue to their attention, workshop foreman went with me on a drive and heard what I was talking about after a while and said they'll will have a look (personally I thought prop shaft), I left it there for a few days. Picked car up and they said it was the tyres I fitted, they fitted another set from a new Navara and apparently resolved issue....what I thought would happen.
I kept the original tyres so suggested to service manager it could be the rims after reading post here and they should re-fit original tyres to eliminate tyres/rims. Left car there for a week. After many calls finally gave me update that its not the tyres, as noise was still present with original tyres and that they have continued to fault find and narrowed it down to the diff.
Nissan have requested audio recording (use microphone magnets to track the noise/vibration down)from dealer workshop, I'm waiting for answer in the mean time Dealer offered me a Brand New Demo to drive around, 4x4 Auto SL, and YES its doing the same thing not quite as loud as mine? Mine was build Sep 2017 at Plant 6 ( Not sure where that is), Demo built July 2017 also at Plant 6. Any one with updates in this issue?
Also check your chassis welds , spots of paint missing and rust appearing like mine, its also present on the Demo and show room units?
I replaced tyres with A/T straight from the dealer so never had change to hear problem on original tyres , I visited the tyre centre before taking it to the dealer to check balance(wheels were rebalanced and no change to vibration), with 1000 km service I brought vibration issue to their attention, workshop foreman went with me on a drive and heard what I was talking about after a while and said they'll will have a look (personally I thought prop shaft), I left it there for a few days. Picked car up and they said it was the tyres I fitted, they fitted another set from a new Navara and apparently resolved issue....what I thought would happen.
I kept the original tyres so suggested to service manager it could be the rims after reading post here and they should re-fit original tyres to eliminate tyres/rims. Left car there for a week. After many calls finally gave me update that its not the tyres, as noise was still present with original tyres and that they have continued to fault find and narrowed it down to the diff.
Nissan have requested audio recording (use microphone magnets to track the noise/vibration down)from dealer workshop, I'm waiting for answer in the mean time Dealer offered me a Brand New Demo to drive around, 4x4 Auto SL, and YES its doing the same thing not quite as loud as mine? Mine was build Sep 2017 at Plant 6 ( Not sure where that is), Demo built July 2017 also at Plant 6. Any one with updates in this issue?
Also check your chassis welds , spots of paint missing and rust appearing like mine, its also present on the Demo and show room units?
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LJG
Member
I understand you guys are all under warranty, but has anybody actually removed a tailshaft and put it in to be balanced? Nissan will only change them with another one, not send them out for balancing.
Np300 SL Vibration
Hi LJG, nope still early days for me, Ill let them try and sort it before I tinker around and void warranty. I'll make the suggestion to them though. Latest Update is they are waiting for Nissan's approval to remove front drive shaft and do test drive, so I guess the diff is of the table again, its been there for almost three weeks....argh
Hi LJG, nope still early days for me, Ill let them try and sort it before I tinker around and void warranty. I'll make the suggestion to them though. Latest Update is they are waiting for Nissan's approval to remove front drive shaft and do test drive, so I guess the diff is of the table again, its been there for almost three weeks....argh
Czechmate
Member
Hi guys
Just thought I'd chip in with my story as it may be relevant.
Ive got a 2007 d40 which i understand had a different engine, diff and transmission but bear with me
When I bought it in 2013 with 25k on the clock, it had a shudder at 100-110 kph too
After talking to lots of people and reading about the issue i discovered it was the transmission getting a vibration up when the torque converter locked in at ~95kph
I changed the fluid to Valvoline maxlife auto trans fluid and the vibration went away over the following few weeks.
Are all you guys driving automatics?
Just thought I'd chip in with my story as it may be relevant.
Ive got a 2007 d40 which i understand had a different engine, diff and transmission but bear with me
When I bought it in 2013 with 25k on the clock, it had a shudder at 100-110 kph too
After talking to lots of people and reading about the issue i discovered it was the transmission getting a vibration up when the torque converter locked in at ~95kph
I changed the fluid to Valvoline maxlife auto trans fluid and the vibration went away over the following few weeks.
Are all you guys driving automatics?
Np300 SL Vibration
Hi Anand. Mine is an Auto.
Thanks for the suggestion, with mine I don't think that will solve the issue, nor do I think the Nissan Workshop would put other oil in the box other than what is prescribed by manufacturer due to warranty
See I have done the following experiment on a long straight:
- brought it up to speed 120km/h
-proceeded to put in in Neutral
- turned the engine off, no I did not turn the key all the way you don't want to lock the steering
- and no there weren't any cars around so I didn't need to brake without assistance of the booster as it's not under vacuum with engine off
no judgement please I know all the risks involved, but I needed to isolate the torque converter Auto Box and Engine flywheel.
-With everything nice and quiet coming to 105km the vibration peaked as before, what does that tell me (Prop shaft)
- Started car back up , brought the revs up to 2000rpm and slipped back in D no worries.
Does this experiment entirely exclude the Torque converter whilst free wheeling (I know this is no different to towing an auto which you shouldn't do without removing the pro shaft), I'm not 100% sure as I'm not that familiar with Auto Boxes, I know the Prop shaft would be turning, presume the gearbox main shaft was turning but with no gears engaged the torque converter in theory wasn't engaged....your thoughts anyone with auto box experience, does free wheeling exclude the torque converter as a problem?
Hi Anand. Mine is an Auto.
Thanks for the suggestion, with mine I don't think that will solve the issue, nor do I think the Nissan Workshop would put other oil in the box other than what is prescribed by manufacturer due to warranty
See I have done the following experiment on a long straight:
- brought it up to speed 120km/h
-proceeded to put in in Neutral
- turned the engine off, no I did not turn the key all the way you don't want to lock the steering
- and no there weren't any cars around so I didn't need to brake without assistance of the booster as it's not under vacuum with engine off
no judgement please I know all the risks involved, but I needed to isolate the torque converter Auto Box and Engine flywheel.
-With everything nice and quiet coming to 105km the vibration peaked as before, what does that tell me (Prop shaft)
- Started car back up , brought the revs up to 2000rpm and slipped back in D no worries.
Does this experiment entirely exclude the Torque converter whilst free wheeling (I know this is no different to towing an auto which you shouldn't do without removing the pro shaft), I'm not 100% sure as I'm not that familiar with Auto Boxes, I know the Prop shaft would be turning, presume the gearbox main shaft was turning but with no gears engaged the torque converter in theory wasn't engaged....your thoughts anyone with auto box experience, does free wheeling exclude the torque converter as a problem?
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There are two parts to the torque converter.
The input side turns when the engine turns. Turning off the engine stops that.
The output side turns when the gearbox drives it. Placing the gearbox in neutral stops the output side.
The bigger concern with doing that is the oil pump in the gearbox is driven by the output side (attached to the input shaft, but that's what the torque converter output shaft is connected to). This means that no oil is pumped through the gearbox while you're in neutral and the engine is off.
However, putting that aside, your assumption is correct and your test is therefore valid. The TC isn't responsible for the vibration. Because you've negated everything forward of the gearbox output shaft, the conclusion must be that your vibration is coming from one of the drive shafts, an axle or a wheel/tyre.
The input side turns when the engine turns. Turning off the engine stops that.
The output side turns when the gearbox drives it. Placing the gearbox in neutral stops the output side.
The bigger concern with doing that is the oil pump in the gearbox is driven by the output side (attached to the input shaft, but that's what the torque converter output shaft is connected to). This means that no oil is pumped through the gearbox while you're in neutral and the engine is off.
However, putting that aside, your assumption is correct and your test is therefore valid. The TC isn't responsible for the vibration. Because you've negated everything forward of the gearbox output shaft, the conclusion must be that your vibration is coming from one of the drive shafts, an axle or a wheel/tyre.
Np300 SL Vibration
Hi Old.Tony thanks for that insight I am very familiar with manuals but was just not 100% sure on the Auto. Wont be doing that all the time that's for sure. I just freewheeled for 20 seconds max and wouldn't expect any harm done, I did not consider the oil pump not turning in my test though....what oil pump....
I hope Nissan workshop track down the source of vibration I just don't want it back if they don't, my money is still on a drive shaft.
Hi Old.Tony thanks for that insight I am very familiar with manuals but was just not 100% sure on the Auto. Wont be doing that all the time that's for sure. I just freewheeled for 20 seconds max and wouldn't expect any harm done, I did not consider the oil pump not turning in my test though....what oil pump....
I hope Nissan workshop track down the source of vibration I just don't want it back if they don't, my money is still on a drive shaft.
The auto transmission has a pump inside that delivers oil through to all of the innards. No pump = no delivery but if the output shaft of the gearbox is turning, then some few innards are also turning but without oil being delivered. At 120km/h they'll be turning quite quickly, too, hopefully just 20 seconds didn't cause it any drama.
That's the reason why you can't tow an auto for extended periods, because even in neutral, some of the gearbox innards are moving but the oil pump isn't. Manual doesn't have that issue because by turning, the gears pick up the oil and throw it around.
That's the reason why you can't tow an auto for extended periods, because even in neutral, some of the gearbox innards are moving but the oil pump isn't. Manual doesn't have that issue because by turning, the gears pick up the oil and throw it around.
Thanks Old.Tony. I did a bit of youtube research on Torque Converters and auto box planetary gear systems, its quite fascinating how it all works. TC is Basically a turbine liquid coupling. My Ute is still at service centre, Nissan approved the replacement of the diff, they are still waiting for a part before it all goes in, so much mystery......what is this mysterious part, hopefully its a prop shaft that is balanced and perfectly in round! I can only assume they removed front drive shaft and did test drive with no improvement, detail is not very forthcoming :-( so I guess they are back at the diff being the problem a month later.
the_bluester
Member
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Been a while since I have posted on here. I had a trawl through this thread and reckon people are talking about the same issue I have with my D23.
Around the 100/110KMH mark mine intermittently develops a shake, I would not call it a vibration as I think that tends to confuse the issue with the likes of a tailshaft vibration that makes the car buzz. In my case at least it is like an poorly balanced wheel, had it balanced a couple of times with more or less no change to the car. When it gets going the tub gets a fair shake on, you can see it as mine has a canopy fitted and you can see the canopy shaking in the mirror.
I reckon it is suspension related, mainly a poor match with the 18" wheel and tyre package. When I test drove an ST I thought it was a nicer package on the road than the silly bloody 18" things on the ST-X, they just add cost, harshness and noise in the name of cosmetics. What I have found is that when mine is somewhat loaded the issue goes away. We had a week away on the school holidays and when we had the gear in the back (Couple of hundred kilos) it was as smooth as you could ask for, I drove it for hours at a time without an issue. Likewise when I tow my track car, not so much as a quiver.
I have played with tyre pressure quite a bit and it improves it a touch but to make it much better you have to lower them further than I like to go. I suspect better dampers would probably rein it in, I might have to see if I can extract some money from my lease fund (It has a silly positive balance from my last car) and throw a set of Bilsteins at it. The body control over long undulations I would put down as marginal at best anyway so a change would probably improve the car. Mine is a series 2 with apparently much better body control, I hate to think what the NP300 badged cars must have been like.
Around the 100/110KMH mark mine intermittently develops a shake, I would not call it a vibration as I think that tends to confuse the issue with the likes of a tailshaft vibration that makes the car buzz. In my case at least it is like an poorly balanced wheel, had it balanced a couple of times with more or less no change to the car. When it gets going the tub gets a fair shake on, you can see it as mine has a canopy fitted and you can see the canopy shaking in the mirror.
I reckon it is suspension related, mainly a poor match with the 18" wheel and tyre package. When I test drove an ST I thought it was a nicer package on the road than the silly bloody 18" things on the ST-X, they just add cost, harshness and noise in the name of cosmetics. What I have found is that when mine is somewhat loaded the issue goes away. We had a week away on the school holidays and when we had the gear in the back (Couple of hundred kilos) it was as smooth as you could ask for, I drove it for hours at a time without an issue. Likewise when I tow my track car, not so much as a quiver.
I have played with tyre pressure quite a bit and it improves it a touch but to make it much better you have to lower them further than I like to go. I suspect better dampers would probably rein it in, I might have to see if I can extract some money from my lease fund (It has a silly positive balance from my last car) and throw a set of Bilsteins at it. The body control over long undulations I would put down as marginal at best anyway so a change would probably improve the car. Mine is a series 2 with apparently much better body control, I hate to think what the NP300 badged cars must have been like.
LJG
Member
I did not have the issue with my series 2, till I changed recently to 285/60/18 all terrains. Then it started, which didn't really surprise me given the extra weight of the bigger all terrain tyre. Balancing did not fix it so I tried some SupaMax glass tyre balance beads. I put 6oz (half a bag) in each rear tyre. Problem solved. At $5 for the bag it was a cheap fix.
2017
Member
Hereward 2013SpanishD40
Member
Very unlikely to be the drive shaft unless it's been removed and installed upside down. Don't laugh, had this happen in my classic 2000 Datsun Roadster back in the 90's. Took me 2 months to work out the problem darn it.
mika
Member
Reading here but finding no real definitive solutions other than the balance beads.
No one has come back and reported any other positive outcomes.
My local Pedders store didn’t think the beads would help much but clutching at straws and will try anything because next step is trade on another brand.
Only changes to my NP300 Nav is the wheels and tyres. I have fitted D40 17” with Yokohama 255/65 G015 A/T LT tyres and have fitted the electric roller shutter (high and quite heavy set load) to the tray. I know the D40 wheels are 15mm different in offset to the NP300 wheels but not sure this will cause the issue, others have them fitted and am not hearing any problems there. Nav has done 24K kms.
Vibration is random at various speeds but seems to set off with just a little steering off centre input and predominately noted on smooth highway. (like the previously mentioned Brisbane - Sunshine Coast 110 km/h Bruce Highway)
Am getting the tray security checked next week with Nissan (it is a normal service check item) to try eliminate if the vibration is a body resonance. Struggling to access original wheels and tyres to refit to retest and eliminate mine. May be LT tyre choice is a poor one as there are several different versions of the G015 tyre.
Any further fixes and successes? Please share! Thx
No one has come back and reported any other positive outcomes.
My local Pedders store didn’t think the beads would help much but clutching at straws and will try anything because next step is trade on another brand.
Only changes to my NP300 Nav is the wheels and tyres. I have fitted D40 17” with Yokohama 255/65 G015 A/T LT tyres and have fitted the electric roller shutter (high and quite heavy set load) to the tray. I know the D40 wheels are 15mm different in offset to the NP300 wheels but not sure this will cause the issue, others have them fitted and am not hearing any problems there. Nav has done 24K kms.
Vibration is random at various speeds but seems to set off with just a little steering off centre input and predominately noted on smooth highway. (like the previously mentioned Brisbane - Sunshine Coast 110 km/h Bruce Highway)
Am getting the tray security checked next week with Nissan (it is a normal service check item) to try eliminate if the vibration is a body resonance. Struggling to access original wheels and tyres to refit to retest and eliminate mine. May be LT tyre choice is a poor one as there are several different versions of the G015 tyre.
Any further fixes and successes? Please share! Thx
Attachments
Shame about the vibration, it's a good looking ute.
Trying to narrow down the problem, some questions need answers. Specifically, when is the vibration felt and how does it change?
Is it only when the engine is running?
Is it very closely tied to engine RPM or is it more tied to vehicle speed?
Does it happen more in a left hand corner than a right hand?
Is it only on specific road surfaces?
Does it go away if you turn off the air conditioning and/or the fan?
Trying to narrow down the problem, some questions need answers. Specifically, when is the vibration felt and how does it change?
Is it only when the engine is running?
Is it very closely tied to engine RPM or is it more tied to vehicle speed?
Does it happen more in a left hand corner than a right hand?
Is it only on specific road surfaces?
Does it go away if you turn off the air conditioning and/or the fan?
mika
Member
Car has had no suspension mods and has only done 24,000 km on good bitumen roads.
Vibration is almost more like a resonance which will kick off with a little bit of steering pressure (like a corner or just holding it straight ahead on a high cambered road) at speeds from 80 km/h and up generally. Of course the smoother the road surface the more prone to it happening.
It isn't rpm related or aircon/fan related, more body vibration.
Wheels and tyres have been inspected and balanced so many times.
Just frustrated as I can’t find a set of standard wheels and tyres to retest. Can only think the D40 wheel offset could be a cause or perhaps the soft sprung standard rear coils and shocks having issue with the heavier A/T light truck spec tyres and not able to cope with the changes.
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It almost sounds like the caster angle is wrong? That's a wheel alignment issue, not a tyre problem.
Caster angles - according to some of the guys I've spoken to about my own car - are an issue in the Navara. I've not had a problem with my caster angles, but I've had a problem with the alignment being very difficult and had to replace part of the front suspension to include some eccentric adjustment.
Has yours been difficult?
Caster angles - according to some of the guys I've spoken to about my own car - are an issue in the Navara. I've not had a problem with my caster angles, but I've had a problem with the alignment being very difficult and had to replace part of the front suspension to include some eccentric adjustment.
Has yours been difficult?
