Np300 Navara D23 - lost cruise control

[vivasjm]

Hi guys, after a hot afternoon of doing some off road in the beach my cruise control stopped working. I can active with the ON/OFF button but I cannot set a desired speed (set button)

I read some that might be related to selenoids so I cleaned them up but the issue persist.

Any idea?

 

[Scott52]

You haven't said if your D23 is manual or automatic.

For a manual ... if it's not setting it's probably the neutral position switch (NPS). I'm pretty sure the D40 and D23 are the same when it comes to the NPS in that the SET is turned off (contacts are closed) when the transmission is in neutral. When the transmission is in a gear the NPS contacts are open. Therefore a quick test is to find your NPS and unplug it from the connector which makes the CC system think the transmission is in gear so the CC should SET.

https://navarapart.com.au/product/genuine-nissan-navara-np300-neutral-position-switch
The switch is screwed into the drivers (right hand) side of the gearbox, and is the switch closer to the rear of the gearbox.

Not to be mistaken with the reverse switch which is located in front of this switch, and has a different plug.

If it is the NPS you can do this to save some money otherwise buy a new NPS.

 

[vivasjm]

You haven't said if your D23 is manual or automatic.

For a manual ... if it's not setting it's probably the neutral position switch (NPS). I'm pretty sure the D40 and D23 are the same when it comes to the NPS in that the SET is turned off (contacts are closed) when the transmission is in neutral. When the transmission is in a gear the NPS contacts are open. Therefore a quick test is to find your NPS and unplug it from the connector which makes the CC system think the transmission is in gear so the CC should SET.

https://navarapart.com.au/product/genuine-nissan-navara-np300-neutral-position-switch
The switch is screwed into the drivers (right hand) side of the gearbox, and is the switch closer to the rear of the gearbox.

Not to be mistaken with the reverse switch which is located in front of this switch, and has a different plug.

If it is the NPS you can do this to save some money otherwise buy a new NPS.

Thank you very much! My Nissan Navara is manual so I'll check the NPS. I'll let you know. Thanks again for your help

 

[vivasjm]

You haven't said if your D23 is manual or automatic.

For a manual ... if it's not setting it's probably the neutral position switch (NPS). I'm pretty sure the D40 and D23 are the same when it comes to the NPS in that the SET is turned off (contacts are closed) when the transmission is in neutral. When the transmission is in a gear the NPS contacts are open. Therefore a quick test is to find your NPS and unplug it from the connector which makes the CC system think the transmission is in gear so the CC should SET.

https://navarapart.com.au/product/genuine-nissan-navara-np300-neutral-position-switch
The switch is screwed into the drivers (right hand) side of the gearbox, and is the switch closer to the rear of the gearbox.

Not to be mistaken with the reverse switch which is located in front of this switch, and has a different plug.

If it is the NPS you can do this to save some money otherwise buy a new NPS.

Is the one in the left isn't it?

 

[vivasjm]

I guess it's the one marked in red, right?

 

[vivasjm]

Well I test the sensor and looks like it is working fine, I also did the hack but didn't worked so I guess the CC errors comes from another place. Any idea what else can I check?

 

[Scott52]

The NPS is just a switch not a sensor. Did you disconnect from the harness and check to see if the CC system would SET? You only extend the plunger on the switch if the disconnect test is successful.

If it's not the NPS the other things to check are the brake and clutch switches located above the pedals. Check the clutch switch first.

 

[vivasjm]

The NPS is just a switch not a sensor. Did you disconnect from the harness and check to see if the CC system would SET? You only extend the plunger on the switch if the disconnect test is successful.

If it's not the NPS the other things to check are the brake and clutch switches located above the pedals. Check the clutch switch first.

Today I tested the clutch and brake switches and they both works fine. I'll try to disconnect the NPS switch and test the CC SET one more time. I'm running out of options

 

[Scott52]

I'll try to disconnect the NPS switch and test the CC SET one more time. I'm running out of options

So it sounds like you haven't disconnected the NPS yet?

Sometimes it's hard to separate the connector so silicone spray helps. There's a little tab that needs to be squeezed to unlock the two so you can separate the connector.

Did you actually pull the connector off and check to see if the CC SETS? You said you did the "hack" which involves disconnecting and removing the NPS from the vehicle, placing a spot weld on the plunger and grinding flat so it's about 1mm longer. There's no point in doing this step before the disconnect test. If it fails the disconnect test then it's not the NPS so there's no point in doing the 'hack" as the problem is not with the NPS.

If the disconnect test is successful it confirms the NPS contacts are not opening when the transmission is in gear. The repair is then one of two options:

1. Replace the NPS.

2. or ... Remove the NPS and test with a multimeter or test light. If the switch works but the plunger is not being pushed in enough by the gear stick ... extend the plunger by about a 1mm as shown in the video.

I compared the length of plungers on my existing NPS with a new item. The new NPS plunger was about 0.8mm longer so it's obvious a design change was made to solve this problem.

 

[vivasjm]

So it sounds like you haven't disconnected the NPS yet?

Sometimes it's hard to separate the connector so silicone spray helps. There's a little tab that needs to be squeezed to unlock the two so you can separate the connector.

Did you actually pull the connector off and check to see if the CC SETS? You said you did the "hack" which involves disconnecting and removing the NPS from the vehicle, placing a spot weld on the plunger and grinding flat so it's about 1mm longer. There's no point in doing this step before the disconnect test. If it fails the disconnect test then it's not the NPS so there's no point in doing the 'hack" as the problem is not with the NPS.

If the disconnect test is successful it confirms the NPS contacts are not opening when the transmission is in gear. The repair is then one of two options:

1. Replace the NPS.

2. or ... Remove the NPS and test with a multimeter or test light. If the switch works but the plunger is not being pushed in enough by the gear stick ... extend the plunger by about a 1mm as shown in the video.

I compared the length of plungers on my existing NPS with a new item. The new NPS plunger was about 0.8mm longer so it's obvious a design change was made to solve this problem.

I didn't test the CC with the NPS unplugged but I did remove the NPS switch and test it with a multimeter and worked fine. Today I tested also the clutch and brake switched, they both worked fine.

Tomorrow I'll unplug the the NPS connector without removing the switch (should be the same) and test the CC and see what happens

 

[Scott52]

I didn't test the CC with the NPS unplugged

Well that's disappointing considering it's the critical first step that I tried to carefully explain based on my experience. It takes time to formulate a clear description of how to tackle these problems.

I've repaired two Navara CC's and it was the NPS both times which we discovered by doing the disconnect test. In both cases we repaired the existing switch by extending the plunger about 1mm with a spot weld on the end. The reason this happens is over time the internal components of the NPS wear requiring the plunger to be pushed in a bit further to "click". An easy fix is to put a spot weld on the end of the plunger so it's about 1mm longer. The easier way out is to replace the NPS.

So in your case you've confirmed the NPS contacts open and close but haven't tested if the gear stick pushes the plunger in far enough for it to "click" and open the contacts which is why you need to do the disconnect test as previously described. If you disconnect and the CC starts working ... in that you can set a speed, then you'll have confirmed the plunger isn't being pushed in enough to allow the internal mechanism of the NPS to "click" over and open the contacts.

You've made more work for yourself although perhaps that's a good thing as you're learning how these things work.

I can't explain the test and repair options any better than I have.

 

[vivasjm]

Well that's disappointing considering it's the critical first step that I tried to carefully explain based on my experience. It takes time to formulate a clear description of how to tackle these problems.

I've repaired two Navara CC's and it was the NPS both times which we discovered by doing the disconnect test. In both cases we repaired the existing switch by extending the plunger about 1mm with a spot weld on the end. The reason this happens is over time the internal components of the NPS wear requiring the plunger to be pushed in a bit further to "click". An easy fix is to put a spot weld on the end of the plunger so it's about 1mm longer. The easier way out is to replace the NPS.

So in your case you've confirmed the NPS contacts open and close but haven't tested if the gear stick pushes the plunger in far enough for it to "click" and open the contacts which is why you need to do the disconnect test as previously described. If you disconnect and the CC starts working ... in that you can set a speed, then you'll have confirmed the plunger isn't being pushed in enough to allow the internal mechanism of the NPS to "click" over and open the contacts.

You've made more work for yourself although perhaps that's a good thing as you're learning how these things work.

I can't explain the test and repair options any better than I have.

Thank you very much for the explanation, as you said I'm learning how things works trying to identify and test each of the involved components. Well, today I disconnected the NPS switch (not the plunger) and tested the CC SET but didn't work and didn't get any error either.

Basically I tested all switches, not sure what other compoment might be cancelling the CC SET

 

[Scott52]

Well, today I disconnected the NPS switch (not the plunger) and tested the CC SET but didn't work and didn't get any error either.

When you disconnected the NPS did your drive the car at greater than 40kph and try the SET?

 

[vivasjm]

When you disconnected the NPS did your drive the car at greater than 40kph and try the SET?

yeap, I drove in the highway around 80kph. I tried in 4, 5 and 6 gear

 

[Scott52]

You checked the clutch switch is adjusted correctly?

Next thing to check are the switches on the steering wheel.

 

[vivasjm]

You checked the clutch switch is adjusted correctly?

Next thing to check are the switches on the steering wheel.

I checked the clutch switch works fine and also check that it get in got with the clutch pedal, so it should be working fine.

Something weird that happened yesterday (after checking all switches) is that the brake pedal got hard to push while driving, I had to turn off the engine, push the brake pedal a couple of times, start the engine and then it got soft again. Even while driving when I felt the pedal was hard I push it several times to check what was happening and in some moment the slip indicator light turned on and the fuel consumption increased, was like the car was moving with the brakes engaged or something like that.

After that I disconnected the battery and everything looks normal again (I used the car just twice since then)

regards

 

[vivasjm]

Well, finally I got a solution! My D23 as many others D23 had the hot pipe leaking issue, so I went to an turbo specialist and he replaced the orings for others thicker to avoid leaking. This finally solve the leaking issue but also increased the turbo pressure, looks like when the ECU detects over pressure limits the RPM to protect the engine and the error makes de CC get disabled. Today I went to Nissan, they cleared the DTC and CC is working again

Now I need to go with the person who remapped my D23 when I did the stage 2 to reconfigure this so I don't get the same error again