Intercooler

[hellhound]

Hey D22 guys. I have mentioned somewhere on the forum that we are doing a d22 front mount kit and I finally have some pics of the prototype/test vehicle for you to have a squizz at.

Kit is essentially done so we just need to get all the bits together in numbers for sale.

Only mods needed are some die grinding of an existing hole in the rad support panel and some massaging of the upper panel. We also supply new washer bottle and mod the filler as you will see in pics. It will fit with a bullbar no worries.

Core works incredibly well as do all our cores and there are some very interesting results on the dyno. Will try and get some dyno graphs up soon but this truck has exhaust and chip too so heaps of power and torque.

We feel even though there are some compromises with this kit (washer bottle for example) it is far better than having to mod bullbar mounts and run pipe work down low were it is likely to be damaged.

Regards
Brian

hey mate do u wok for northside 4x4? plus also wat is the rough price?

 

[gshannon]

Good thread, thanks for all the pics.

I am about to start getting everything together to do my own intercooler install (with help from a fabricator mate) and just deciding on which cooler to use.

I like the idea of using a stock xr6 cooler but thinking of using one of these ebay jobs:
JDM Performance Micro FMIC Intercooler-Perfect for 4WD! - eBay Turbos, Superchargers, Performance Parts, Car Parts, Accessories, Cars, Bikes, Boats. (end time 31-Aug-10 17:47:07 AEST)

My question is, is it big enough to effectively cool the charged air? The impressive flow rates @ 15psi is why I am considering this, but its tiny at only 200mm X 140mm X 65mm

Would like to know what your thoughts are on xr6 vs ebay ic?

I will be mounting it just behind the bullbar

Cheers

 

[mud4b]

I just got one of these for a top mount, same style as the xr6t..

SKYLINE R32 RB20 INTERCOOLER 465 X 260 X 70 - 2.5 " - eBay Intercoolers, Performance Parts, Car Parts, Accessories, Cars, Bikes, Boats. (end time 02-Sep-10 04:41:20 AEST)

Bit of a pain to fit but its getting there, can fit 2 8" thermos on top...

cheers mark.

 

[redman]

I bought the same one as above from NZ... But used it as a front mount behind the bullbar, Everything fits great! Took about 5-6hours to fully install everything with chop and changing bits n pieces..

 

[Dave]

Got any pics on how you mounted it etc.

Dave.

 

[gshannon]

I ended up buying one of these
JDM Performance Micro FMIC Intercooler-Perfect for 4WD! - eBay Turbos, Superchargers, Performance Parts, Car Parts, Accessories, Cars, Bikes, Boats. (end time 14-Sep-10 17:56:47 AEST)

Will post pics when its installed

 

[brendan]

for the guys doing the DIY kit, where abouts are you getting the piping and bends? you welding them or just using sillicon hose to join them?

i will probably go with a diy kit, what size of intercooler would be needed, obviously bigger is better but has anyone found a good size/shape. take it eveyone is going with 2.5inch pipe?
going to do a front mount.

thnaks

 

[Gasd D22]

Hey D22 guys. I have mentioned somewhere on the forum that we are doing a d22 front mount kit and I finally have some pics of the prototype/test vehicle for you to have a squizz at.

Kit is essentially done so we just need to get all the bits together in numbers for sale.

Only mods needed are some die grinding of an existing hole in the rad support panel and some massaging of the upper panel. We also supply new washer bottle and mod the filler as you will see in pics. It will fit with a bullbar no worries.

Core works incredibly well as do all our cores and there are some very interesting results on the dyno. Will try and get some dyno graphs up soon but this truck has exhaust and chip too so heaps of power and torque.

We feel even though there are some compromises with this kit (washer bottle for example) it is far better than having to mod bullbar mounts and run pipe work down low were it is likely to be damaged.

Regards
Brian

Gday 4.8, is this setup ready to go yet? I noticed you've got a k&n air filter, I couldn't find one in the barrelle shape, had to go for Unifilter, were'd ya find one?

 

[R31_IceMan]

From my reading the choices are:
* make your own air-to-air or water-to-air (effort high, cost low, mods to vehicle low-medium)
* Cross Country top mount (effort medium-high, cost medium, mods to vehicle high)
* ASE front mount (effort low-medium, cost medium, mods to vehicle low)
* Northside 4x4 front mount (effort low-medium, cost medium, mods to vehicle medium)
* Denco water-to-air (effort medium-high, cost high, mods to vehicle low)

I'm a caterpillar diesel mechanic and all my training and experience has showed me a thing or two about what i believe i will use but i'm still learning all the time and recommend reading "Maximum Boost: Designing, Testing and Installing Turbocharger Systems" by Corky Bell . Piping for intercoolers only makes around 0.2 or a second difference for every meter for turbo response time (according to Air Power Systems). All caterpillar machines can very from Water-to-air, air-to-air or in ACERT on highway engines both water-to-air and air-to-air and is largely dependant on area available and the conditions the machines work in.

Intercooling or aftercooling as it can be known in heavy vehicles is use to reverse the by-product of compressing air using turbo or superchargers. No matter which one of the aftercooling systems you use you will see a marked response in the performance in the area the aftercooler is most efficient in.
Water-to-air aftercoolers are best suited for slow speed work and give the best consistency of cooling in all speeds but they are a second cooling system that is bulky and will only lower temp to a consistent temp once the radiator in the setup is up to temp.
Air-to air aftercoolers vary in their cooling ability more depending on speed, air flow and ambient temp. If you read the link from Navara forums you’ll notice that “Shonky” give some EGT’s to take note of, which show you that if you car is used for daily basis and you want longevity in the motor cooling is most important at high speed and high load. For this reason i lean towards the air-to-air in a front mount position.
I am worried about blocking the radiator frontal air a little but i prefer this to the aftercooler getting heat sync from the engine. I am also investing in an engine oil cooler which will safe the engines along with getting the right fuel ratios.

Personally I’m going the ASE kit. I did have this post at almost 2 full word doc pages with explanations etc but getting guys to ask questions is better than writing essays because it will give the answers you want.

Dave

 

[whoknows]

Hi Dave, I have been thinking of fitting a ASE inter cooler to my D22 for sometime but have not proceed for two reasons.

1
Still unsure if the $$ spent are value for money and if the performance improvement makes it a worth while. I tow a 1.8 tonne boat & trailer around.
2
Not happy with cutting a large hole in the structural support for the Roo bar for the inter cooler tubing.

I am also interested in why you prefer the ASE system over the Northside 4x4 system. PM me if you prefer not to answer that question on the forum

 

[Dave]

I think I am gonna sticky this thread.

No doubt the question will come up a fair bit.

 

[R31_IceMan]

Hi Dave, I have been thinking of fitting a ASE inter cooler to my D22 for sometime but have not proceed for two reasons.

1
Still unsure if the $$ spent are value for money and if the performance improvement makes it a worth while. I tow a 1.8 tonne boat & trailer around.
2
Not happy with cutting a large hole in the structural support for the Roo bar for the inter cooler tubing.

I am also interested in why you prefer the ASE system over the Northside 4x4 system. PM me if you prefer not to answer that question on the forum

According to my training from Caterpillar Institute, WesTrac Institute, Hunter Valley Kurri Kurri TAFE and work colleagues, the main killer or diesel engines are (oh guys this isn't a look how good i am it's just to make the point the the worlds largest earth moving company training says): contamination in oil and fuel, excessive fuel build up on rings from over fuelling, excessive heat of intake air which causes pre ignition (pinging as most would know it) and over speed are the main reasons for short life in diesel engines.

The reason i would get an aftercooler in your case is because if your spending most of your highway at 100% throttle your putting a lot of fuel into the chamber which wont be burning (black smoke) and this ends up on the ring lands which then leads to compression ring failure. The fuel is not burnt because it pre ignites when too hot and acts more like an explosion instead of a slow burn which diesels require.

In your case the factory fuel mapping will be fine, put a snorkel, exhaust and aftercooler on it and it wont win drag races but it will pull the van with a lot more ease.

The reason for going ASE over North is just down to seeing how the pipes run, how much i have to change and just a little more faith in a company that does turbo charging in bulk a little more. But i could change my mind depending on norths price and more photos following all the pipes.

Personally if i had the time and money i would be putting both water-to-air and air-to-air on the truck with a custom front mount air-to-air and the water-to-air just using engine coolent. Most of the water-to-air aftercooled heavy vehicles use radiator coolent as their medium for transfer.

Just remember gents, the diesel engine when warm doesn't require heated air into the chamber to cause combustion, just air. The compression pressure within the cylinder creates enough heat with the added help of residual heat from previous power stroke to start ignition. The turbo is just pumping in more air which can allow more fuel. Compressed airs byproduct is heat! hence why inter/aftercooling is required.

 

[Dave]

^ Where are you from ?

I know the head Diesel mechanic tafe teacher at Kurri tafe pretty well. Derek.

 

[R31_IceMan]

I'm in Highfields mate,

Derek is one of my teachers. He's a wealth of knowledge, if you can keep him on topic and off motor bikes and quantum physics.

Just one question for you on the aftercooler mate, which way up did your intercooler end up. I keep looking at ASE and modyourcar photos and they have it both ways around.

cheers Dave

 

[Dave]

I have the ASE kit on mine.

I get my bullbar back on saturday, so I can grab some pics if you need.

Yeah Derek lives up the road from me. His my mates uncle, been there place quite a few times for thomas's parties (Derek's son).

Larry who use to be at Kurri tafe is another mates uncle but I think Larry has retired. Haven't seen Larry in years.

 

[smytheda]

Hey guys n girls.. I've got a question for you all.. Im putting a top mount on my 3lt and just wondering about the boost sensor (think that's what it is, the black sensor on the standard intake pipe) does it matter what side of the intercooler it goes? Room for piping is a bit limited due to a 2nd battery in the Bay and I need to work out my piping but unsure about this sensor.. Any input would be much appreciated, thanks

 

[Dave]

Shouldn't matter. As long as its on the intake pipe reading.

 

[brendan]

Personally if i had the time and money i would be putting both water-to-air and air-to-air on the truck with a custom front mount air-to-air and the water-to-air just using engine coolent. Most of the water-to-air aftercooled heavy vehicles use radiator coolent as their medium for transfer.

not sure what you mean but if you mean using the engine coolant as the coolant for a water to air setup then im going to disagree. you could say most engine coolants is at a temp of say 80-90 degrees, i know for a fact that the turbo isnt going to be putting out air of them temps, hence the intercooler being an interHEATER.

but if you mean using radiator fluid as the 'water' in a water to air setup then i would say thats ok.

just because heavy diesel engines use it doesnt mean that our piss 3.0L diesels will benifit.


TO smytheda


i would put it as close to the intake of the engine as you can. heres what i did.

just cut the bolt mounting taps off, welded them on the intake piping.
got that little nipple and silversoldered a 1/8th fitting on the end of it and screw it into a threaded boss i welded on.

 

[smytheda]

put it as close to the intake of the engine as you can. heres what i did.

just cut the bolt mounting taps off, welded them on the intake piping.
got that little nipple and silversoldered a 1/8th fitting on the end of it and screw it into a threaded boss i welded on.

what's the tee in the vacumw hose for :S or is that for boost gauge or something?? Thanks for the pic btw.. Very helpful

 

[Dave]

It would be for a boost gauge.