easy enough. i think i took the steering column plastic off first as that makes it easier pulling the dash bit out, but its not necessary. a few screws etc hold the black gauge surround, then undo the screws holding the gauge cluster, pull it out a bit and tip it forward and i think you can get to the bulbs without pulling it right out.
however i found bulbs where hard to get out so unplug the couple plugs out the back and the whole cluster can come out. twist the bulbs holders out. the tricky part is prising the little bulbs out of the holders without breaking the holders.
i'll have to go double check, i think i'm missing a step somewhere.