Milkman
Member
Would like some ideas for installing an Ignition Kill Switch for anti theft purpose- not the location of a switch, more around how to wire, and to what ignition, battery, alternator, starter ect, or even to an accessory
Ignition Kill Switch
- Thread starter Milkman
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Would like some ideas for installing an Ignition Kill Switch for anti theft purpose- not the location of a switch, more around how to wire, and to what ignition, battery, alternator, starter ect, or even to an accessory
Milkman
Member
easiest way would be throu the starter tbh.
simple relay
http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=SY4068
http://www.jaycar.com.au/ShowLargephoto.asp?id=3982&IMAGE=
my idea would be and this could be wrong it usually is
remove wire from starter motor connect to pins 30 and 85
wire from pin 87 to starter motor
wire from pin 86 to kill switch then to earth
ofcource using correct gauge wire
anyone recon there could be a problem with this setup??
simple relay
http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=SY4068
http://www.jaycar.com.au/ShowLargephoto.asp?id=3982&IMAGE=
my idea would be and this could be wrong it usually is
remove wire from starter motor connect to pins 30 and 85
wire from pin 87 to starter motor
wire from pin 86 to kill switch then to earth
ofcource using correct gauge wire
anyone recon there could be a problem with this setup??
-mal-
Member
I think you may have the pins mixed up, a relay that has an appropriate amp rating for the starter not a standard 30 amp. From memory ( my memory does let me down often ) a relay is a low voltage trigger for high voltage to pass, pins 85 and 86 is the low voltage trigger or switch for pins 30 and 87 to pass the high voltage. Please correct me if I'm wrong. I think you really just need a switch ( which a relay is a type of switch ) that will not burn out due to the volts or amps on the wire/circuit you so choose.
SG1
Member
I put one on mine through one of the ignition wires(cant remember which one), pretty easy to do really, still get power to everything but when you turn key to start vehicle it doesn't turn over, works well and really is easy to do as it's just a matter of cutting the right wire and running it through a toggle switch/kill switch.
I got the information on how to when I was looking on how to wire my spotlights through the high beam toggle switch wire in dash instead of through your high beam light.
Its in here on how to do it on this forum just a bit of looking and you will find.
I got the information on how to when I was looking on how to wire my spotlights through the high beam toggle switch wire in dash instead of through your high beam light.
Its in here on how to do it on this forum just a bit of looking and you will find.
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Milkman
Member
Awesome guys thanks for the input
Mal has the relay issue right.
Personally I'd not disable the starter, it's too obvious. I'd interfere with the injector harness, or better still put an electric valve in the fuel line that only gets turned on when you activate your 'special switch'.
It's too easy to cross the back of the ignition, whack a spanner over the back of the starter solenoid and watch the engine roar into life. That's just not going to happen if there's no juice flowing.
I'd suggest breaking the ECU's earth line but that loses the ECU's memory every time.
Personally I'd not disable the starter, it's too obvious. I'd interfere with the injector harness, or better still put an electric valve in the fuel line that only gets turned on when you activate your 'special switch'.
It's too easy to cross the back of the ignition, whack a spanner over the back of the starter solenoid and watch the engine roar into life. That's just not going to happen if there's no juice flowing.
I'd suggest breaking the ECU's earth line but that loses the ECU's memory every time.
Milkman
Member
mmmmm still lots to consider then,
SG1
Member
Pro's and Con's to the few different ways that have been suggested, a switch that disables your car is only a deterrent and most would be thiefs will walk away rather briskly when they turn the key and nothing happens or if it turns the engine over will continue to try for a bit at least or flatten your battery in the process. If they pop the bonnet then there pretty serious on taking your car and or do other damage under the bonnet in the process when they still cant get it going..
Personally I would steer clear of any extra wiring needed in fuel harnesses, solenoids and the like under the bonnet, mainly because they can break down with more things that could go wrong in the long run, kinda suck big time if your out and about then all the fancy stuff you used to deter a would be thief was working against you and you cant start your own vehicle.
Some more reasons why I went with not being able to turn the engine over was when camping, fishing, or a quick stop along a 4wd track or even a quick stop in the city or towns its easy to flick your kill switch, so if the kids jump in at any time or there friends or any silly bugger really then the cars not going to move at all if still in gear (on manuals) and they try to start the vehicle or knock the key or even turn it to far by accident when turning the ignition on for the radio, electric windows, wipers or anything else that may be connected to your accessories and needs the key to be turned to use.
But that's my opinion and why, each to there own. End of the day a switch of any kind that disables your vehicle is only a deterrent and or prevention of accidentally start ups.
Personally I would steer clear of any extra wiring needed in fuel harnesses, solenoids and the like under the bonnet, mainly because they can break down with more things that could go wrong in the long run, kinda suck big time if your out and about then all the fancy stuff you used to deter a would be thief was working against you and you cant start your own vehicle.
Some more reasons why I went with not being able to turn the engine over was when camping, fishing, or a quick stop along a 4wd track or even a quick stop in the city or towns its easy to flick your kill switch, so if the kids jump in at any time or there friends or any silly bugger really then the cars not going to move at all if still in gear (on manuals) and they try to start the vehicle or knock the key or even turn it to far by accident when turning the ignition on for the radio, electric windows, wipers or anything else that may be connected to your accessories and needs the key to be turned to use.
But that's my opinion and why, each to there own. End of the day a switch of any kind that disables your vehicle is only a deterrent and or prevention of accidentally start ups.
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I would just go with a cheap alarm and a basic kill switch on the starter as I surgested but with the right size relay you can get a alarm for $50 off ebay that has a trigger on the bonnet and doors aswell as a shock sensor dout they will stick around after the alarm starts going off long enough to search for your kill switch
There are three bits to the starter system.
A fused connection to the ignition switch,
A starter solenoid (which is just a bloody honking big relay)
A gorram heavy cable that runs directly from the battery to the starter motor.
What happens is the fuse allows power to the ignition switch. You turn the key, the switch comes on sending power to the positive side of the solenoid's coil, which pulls the bar down connecting the two power poles of the solenoid (battery in and power out). Power directly from the battery then pours into the starter motor. There's NO fuse in that particular section - the starter motor will happily draw 500-550 amps from your battery. It's not something you'd consider sticking a fuse in for.
A fused connection to the ignition switch,
A starter solenoid (which is just a bloody honking big relay)
A gorram heavy cable that runs directly from the battery to the starter motor.
What happens is the fuse allows power to the ignition switch. You turn the key, the switch comes on sending power to the positive side of the solenoid's coil, which pulls the bar down connecting the two power poles of the solenoid (battery in and power out). Power directly from the battery then pours into the starter motor. There's NO fuse in that particular section - the starter motor will happily draw 500-550 amps from your battery. It's not something you'd consider sticking a fuse in for.
Absolutely. No drama at all there. For anyone that wants to know HOW to wire that up:
1) Cut the positive feed wire to the starter solenoid
2) Crimp on a pair of female spade connectors like these (insulated are better)
3) Connect the wire coming off the solenoid to pin 87
4) Connect the other wire to pin 30
5) Connect pin 86 to ground (anywhere, even the ground on the starter)
6) Connect pin 85 to one side of your secret switch
7) Connect the other side of your secret switch to the battery directly. Most power is shut down while the starter turns, and if you use accessory power to drive the relay, the relay will turn off mid-start and the starter will shut down.
Job done. Secure the relay up on top of the starter solenoid, make it difficult to see. Solenoid won't get too hot but the starter could and the engine will definitely, so try to keep it clear(ish) of those.
There's a rubber grommet below the brake booster you can slip wires through, which will appear up above the accelerator pedal, perfect to slip the wire through to the secret switch.
Idea: make the secret switch a pressure switch that sits under the carpet between the seat mounts (so you have to really pull your foot back hard to get it). Since you don't need to use throttle to start the engine, swing your right foot back to find the best location, drop the switch there. If you bump it while driving - no harm done unless you're deliberately turning the key to 'start' while you're driving and if you do that and blow the starter, PLEASE let us know so we can all share in a giggle.
1) Cut the positive feed wire to the starter solenoid
2) Crimp on a pair of female spade connectors like these (insulated are better)
3) Connect the wire coming off the solenoid to pin 87
4) Connect the other wire to pin 30
5) Connect pin 86 to ground (anywhere, even the ground on the starter)
6) Connect pin 85 to one side of your secret switch
7) Connect the other side of your secret switch to the battery directly. Most power is shut down while the starter turns, and if you use accessory power to drive the relay, the relay will turn off mid-start and the starter will shut down.
Job done. Secure the relay up on top of the starter solenoid, make it difficult to see. Solenoid won't get too hot but the starter could and the engine will definitely, so try to keep it clear(ish) of those.
There's a rubber grommet below the brake booster you can slip wires through, which will appear up above the accelerator pedal, perfect to slip the wire through to the secret switch.
Idea: make the secret switch a pressure switch that sits under the carpet between the seat mounts (so you have to really pull your foot back hard to get it). Since you don't need to use throttle to start the engine, swing your right foot back to find the best location, drop the switch there. If you bump it while driving - no harm done unless you're deliberately turning the key to 'start' while you're driving and if you do that and blow the starter, PLEASE let us know so we can all share in a giggle.
