Haha! Icwhatudidthere
How To Install A Winch
- Thread starter Old.Tony
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Haha! Icwhatudidthere
bullwinkle
Member
Chuckle, chuckle
heata
Member
If anyone in the future should read this thread and decide to mount their control box as I did (post on page 4 this thread) Don't do it! it filled with water and corroded the terminals of the solinoids. Seems obvious now that it would fill with water... Hindsight is a wonderful thing lol!
Instead of opening a new thread Ill post a couple Qs here.
1. where are some good serviceable spaces to install the solenoid??!? I need mine off the bar and want to keep the wiring short as possible. Im not using the entire plastic box just the solenoid itself. I plan on hard wiring the winch into the dash somewhere and extending the hand controller plug to the bar in a seperate flush type mount so I have no use for the bulky plastic housing.
2 has anyone used anything other than the standard twist connector to disconnect the power cable to the winch??!? is there such thing as a 500AMP Anderson plug??!?
I do like your thinking Tony but Id lose the key knowing me.
1. where are some good serviceable spaces to install the solenoid??!? I need mine off the bar and want to keep the wiring short as possible. Im not using the entire plastic box just the solenoid itself. I plan on hard wiring the winch into the dash somewhere and extending the hand controller plug to the bar in a seperate flush type mount so I have no use for the bulky plastic housing.
2 has anyone used anything other than the standard twist connector to disconnect the power cable to the winch??!? is there such thing as a 500AMP Anderson plug??!?
I do like your thinking Tony but Id lose the key knowing me.
If you're mounting the solenoid outside its protective box, put it somewhere up behind the support strut in the middle, here's a pic from the "Show the temp in your dash" thread:
The support strut is lower centre of the pic, that pic was taken looking straight down standing in front of the vehicle. That's as long as the cables reach that far! Whatever you do with them, make sure that fluids can drain out of the area so that if it's submerged, it can dry off fairly quickly.
I haven't seen any Anderson-type plugs rated at over 75A (I think). Anderson plugs are rated at about 50A so running 400A through them is likely to cause a fire.
If you're worried about losing the key, just insert the key in the switch and for extra safety, drill a small hole through the key and make a safety line - like a dog's leash - that joins from the mounting holes of the switch body to the small hole through the key. The worst that can happen is the key drops out and dangles around beside the battery.
The objective with the switch is to stop someone from activating your winch without you wanting them to. I have had several people warn me about my winch. Apparently the gag is to release the clutch, pull out the hook about 8 metres or so, run the cable up and over the roof and attach it to your towbar, then engage the clutch and fire off the winch, retreating to a safe distance to watch as the car bends and breaks in your driveway.
I'm not sure if I could ever claim that on insurance, mostly because I doubt that anyone in the insurance company could stop laughing long enough to sign a cheque.
The support strut is lower centre of the pic, that pic was taken looking straight down standing in front of the vehicle. That's as long as the cables reach that far! Whatever you do with them, make sure that fluids can drain out of the area so that if it's submerged, it can dry off fairly quickly.
I haven't seen any Anderson-type plugs rated at over 75A (I think). Anderson plugs are rated at about 50A so running 400A through them is likely to cause a fire.
If you're worried about losing the key, just insert the key in the switch and for extra safety, drill a small hole through the key and make a safety line - like a dog's leash - that joins from the mounting holes of the switch body to the small hole through the key. The worst that can happen is the key drops out and dangles around beside the battery.
The objective with the switch is to stop someone from activating your winch without you wanting them to. I have had several people warn me about my winch. Apparently the gag is to release the clutch, pull out the hook about 8 metres or so, run the cable up and over the roof and attach it to your towbar, then engage the clutch and fire off the winch, retreating to a safe distance to watch as the car bends and breaks in your driveway.
I'm not sure if I could ever claim that on insurance, mostly because I doubt that anyone in the insurance company could stop laughing long enough to sign a cheque.
I have heard that story too about the winches using paper clips to short the hand control plug.
I did some reaserch on the isolating the winch solenoid and found the winch can draw up to 450 amps so in looking for a 500A continious switch I found 1 but was way too bulky. somethign like 100mm cube basically for about $300+
I had a look at the switch you have used and found it is rated at 500A peak but only rated at 100A continious.
So I did a little more research and found a winch motor earth wire. no more than 20A would pass through this wire its only 2mm thick and would be far more cost effective to isolate this wire with a switch or a relay system. The winch is totally isolated with this wire disconnected leaving no need to isolate the main power wire.
And I managed to find a place on the bar support frame to mount the solenoid too.
I did some reaserch on the isolating the winch solenoid and found the winch can draw up to 450 amps so in looking for a 500A continious switch I found 1 but was way too bulky. somethign like 100mm cube basically for about $300+
I had a look at the switch you have used and found it is rated at 500A peak but only rated at 100A continious.
So I did a little more research and found a winch motor earth wire. no more than 20A would pass through this wire its only 2mm thick and would be far more cost effective to isolate this wire with a switch or a relay system. The winch is totally isolated with this wire disconnected leaving no need to isolate the main power wire.
And I managed to find a place on the bar support frame to mount the solenoid too.
Winch Rotation
Found a Notice from Nissan that came with a Genuine Nissan D40 05-ON Winch Fit Kit.
To place the winch clutch handle and motor terminal in a convenient location.
Says to rotate the gearbox 72' (2 hole spacings) clockwise when viewed from the gearbox end.
The Winch Motor must be rotated 90' anticlockwise when viewed from the motor end.
This would be for a Warn XD9000.
Hopes this is useful to someone in the future.
Found a Notice from Nissan that came with a Genuine Nissan D40 05-ON Winch Fit Kit.
To place the winch clutch handle and motor terminal in a convenient location.
Says to rotate the gearbox 72' (2 hole spacings) clockwise when viewed from the gearbox end.
The Winch Motor must be rotated 90' anticlockwise when viewed from the motor end.
This would be for a Warn XD9000.
Hopes this is useful to someone in the future.
Nakkers
Member
I'm trying to install the latest Aldi winch into a genuine Nissan bull bar (D40) and I need the cable to come from the top not the bottom as the fairlead needs to attach at the top of the drum. Is swapping the polarity as easy as swapping the power (red) and earth (black) on the winch? If this is the correct way does doing this change anything else like is the manual control then back to front? I'd rather not just flip the winch as it puts all the sticker info upside down. Can anyone explain. Hoping someone can shed some light on this for me as I'm slightly confused.
Nakkers
Nakkers
I didn't stuff with the power on mine, I just flipped the winch over and hooked up the electrics as per the instructions.
That means my clutch is on the right hand side of the vehicle below the battery, and the control box is over on the left side near the power connectors on the motor. The power cables run down into the void behind the grill and I've retained them to the horizontal crossmember to stop them wagging about.
That means my clutch is on the right hand side of the vehicle below the battery, and the control box is over on the left side near the power connectors on the motor. The power cables run down into the void behind the grill and I've retained them to the horizontal crossmember to stop them wagging about.
I decided against a switch on the earth, since the thing was also bolted to the bullbar I thought there was a chance it'd go anyway - so I cut the red power lead right near the end of it, put a 500A switch and away it goes. I've used it twice hauling a cherry picker out of trouble and haven't had any dramas with it - at least the whole thing handled the loads.
I didn't spot one. I suppose the control box might burn out if things get too bad. The things are designed to draw over 300A and I think the largest fusible link in the Navara is 140A. 300A would have to be like 8-10mm power cable!
Nakkers
Member
Thanks for the comments I'm thinking flipping it will be the easiest way out for sure.
If you're concerned, this fuse from Jaycar might serve you. At $10 each it might be good insurance.
