How To Install A Winch

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Old.Tony

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Updated, see end of post

I've scored myself an Aldi winch which looks like a Tigerz unit. 4300Kg, came with dampener, gloves, wireless and cabled remotes. Not bad for $399.

So I've climbed underneath and removed the plate so I can push the winch up into place. I've found a few (several) issues that I'd appreciate some help with, and maybe we can turn this thread into a "how to do it right" resource.

I have a Nissan (probably ARB) steel bullbar. It's got the heavy plate for the winch and fairlead mount.

First off, the winch won't mount horizontally. The mounting plate lies vertically, so I have to turn the winch over - not a problem, I can manage that. This does, however, introduce another problem ...

Second, the control box can't sit mounted across the chrome bars any more, it'll have to be mounted somewhere else and I can't see where that's supposed to be yet.

Third, the bolts aren't long enough. The Nissan bar uses two 3mm steel plates to form the support, and with the 3mm fairlead base, the bolts don't make it through. I needed top bolts that were 10mm longer than supplied.

Fourth - in went the winch and I looked to see where the cable would come off the spool - straight into the lower horizontal bar. Out comes the winch and I flips it over and mounts it again. Now, the cable comes out over the top of the spool and through the intended hole.

Fifth - and I know I can probably disassemble the end of the gearbox to deal with this - the clutch control is facing towards my oil cooler now, and you have to shove your hand in and give it a twist. I'll see how that goes, but would rather have the thing facing upwards to make it a little easier.

Sixth and finally - number plate won't go back where it came from, I'll have to fix it somewhere else. I have had a brief look through the gallery here and can only see number plates over bars that are similar to mine. So, for those of you with winches, where's your front plate go?

There was another issue between 5 and 6 but a distraction caused my brain to dislodge that particular thought. I'll edit later if I remember it. Don't count on it, upstairs is feeble enough already.

NOT included in the kit (as you'd expect), but somewhat important were things like a winch extension, tree protector and snatch block. ARB are doing a deal on these at the upcoming show at Maitland this weekend - $495 for the kit.

Update:

The winch is in and operational, no problems at all. Attached are two pictures showing the installation from the front and from the right hand side.

I cable-tied the control box to the left side chassis member, using very large cable ties. Even if they come loose, the thing is going to hold itself in place anyway. I put a piece of packing sponge under it to absorb some of the bumps. I routed the cables along the midway section of the radiator then up and through a gap in some shielding and into the battery area.

In picture 1, you'll see a bolt head circled. This bolt is 40mm long, not the 30mm as supplied by Aldi. This bolt goes into the uppermost mount on the winch, and as you can see also holds the fairlead (the roller assembly) in place.

In picture 2, I've circled the side of the winch where the lower mount is. The 30mm bolt was replaced by a 35mm bolt (when sourcing these bolts, please make sure you ask for the proper high tensile bolts - they're stamped on their heads, just show the guys). You'll notice that the clutch faces towards the rear - that's just tough luck for me. You'll also notice tht there's absolutely no room for the control box in its customary place on the winch.
 

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Not quite sure of the layout as supplied and the layout of your bar But I can take some pics of mine to help you out tomorrow Tone.
Best to have somone else on hand unless you have some sort of jack arangement to lift the bugger into place. I did mine on my own but was bloody awkward juggling the weight of the winch and trying to fit bolts at the same time.
Generally speaking the solenoid box would be mounted onto or into the bar depending on the bar you have. Would be rare that you would have the solenoids still attached to the winch as it comes in the box.
Number plate will fit directly above the fairlead but you will have to drill a couple of 1/8th holes and use some self tappers.
It can be indexed so that clutch presents at an appropriate angle.
The cable should be spooled overhand fashion - surely you have been married long enough the missus has taught you about this through the instalation of toilet paper!
 
mine went in easy as, yours is a D40? probably a few differences but i put my solenoid box behind the grill so it wasnt easily tamperable, the clutch you had to pop the bonnet and reach down to turn but again didnt bother me as its probably more of a safety/tamper proof option. My number plate i just moved it up and used the top holes of the bar in the bottom of the plate. The bolts that came with the winch where long enough(aldi) but that was the ironman aldi, according to other forums the new aldi is a supercheap model.

And finally, its better if the winch mounts verticaly over horizontaly as it takes the pressure off the small bolts that hold the winch in and transfers it to the larger bullbar bolts. If it was mounted horizontal i think it would need stops infront of the winch to help with sheer strength.
 
I should have been clearer: I have already lifted the winch into place and bolted it in. It's only 38Kg - wasn't too hard to hold in one hand and bolt up with the other. Maybe it's not made of as strong a stuff?

Mine had to be lifted in through the side as it was a fraction too large to lift directly from underneath, too.

I'd appreciate the pics, thanks heaps!
 
Yes please, Pics would be great joshy. I've been contemplating putting one of these in my NAV. Trouble is I'll need to get inventive cos my bar isn't a winch bar. I've seen some "universal mounting plates" on fleabay but they seem a bit thin at around 3mm and I cant figure where they mount to the chassis. So a pic or 2 of how yours is mounted would be really helpful to me too.
 
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Mate this could be your lucky day. I have an ARB bar, it is fitted with a Tigerz II winch. Yes the bolts were not long enough, remember that these are HIGH TENSILE bolts so make sure you get the right replacement (Grade 8.8), Yes you do need to flip in over, but with the selector lever on the passenger side facing rearwards the cable should come out the hole.

NOW FOR THE GOOD NEWS

I'm heading up the coast (Coffs Harbour) on Friday, will be coming back on Sunday. That means I'll be going past Newcastle twice in 3 days so if you want to look at my install first hand then drop me a PM
 
Great idea for a thread Tony, will be watching with interest.

Post lots of pics guys.
 
Hi Tony,

Another thing to think about...there should be drain holes in the winch motor (probably located where the motor mounts to the drum). You may need to unbolt the motor from the drum and rotate the motor on the drum (including resealing) to ensure that the drain holes remain as drain holes and not, in fact, holes which do a great job of working as funnels....

Similarly, the clutch lever on the gearbox - it may be necessary to undo the gearbox and rotate the gearbox to the correct location for your installation.

Usually these instructions come with the bullbar installation manual. Perhaps someone here with a Nissan bar still has the manual?

Often it is easiest to remove the bar, lay the bar "on its face" and install the winch that way. Not from a weight perspective, just from ease of access.
 
I'm putting an ARB Sahara bar on mine and was just wondering whether it is worth my while getting the winch at the same time?
Also, if I do it later on is taking the bar off a big drama (Airbag etc).
And, my dual battery is set up in a box behind the cab, it isn't wired up as a cranking battery, will I have to re-jig my battery set up to run the winch?
 
Yes get the winch at the same time and just wire it to the cranking battery your 2nd battery is too far away, set up your battery isolator for start assist if possible.
 
Yes get the winch at the same time and just wire it to the cranking battery your 2nd battery is too far away, set up your battery isolator for start assist if possible.

Rescue is right it will be too far away but more importantly your auxillary deep cycle battery is not designed for massive current draw that a winch can make and will kill the battery in no time if done this way. Best bet for a winch is to always run it from the start battery and make sure your vehicle is running when winching to help maintain some sort of charge in the battery.
 
I was thinking of running the winch from my auxiliary batteries (I have 2 mounted in the tray) but even with running 00B&S to the winch the voltage drop at full load would have been unacceptable, so I've just got an isolator with a start assist bypass and I'm making up a lead with a couple of Anderson Plugs to enable me to jump start from the 2nd & 3rd battery.

Just got to get time to finish the project then photos will follow.
 
My winch is in, should be taking some pics this afternoon. I'm going to go with the control box behind the grille theme most likely, to avoid people tampering with it. I'm working Friday, will be @ Muswellbrook all day Saturday and have more work Sunday.

We'll see how I muddle along with it. I'll rip the thing back out one day and rotate the gearbox, for now I can reach in to engage the clutch, so I'm not too worried about that.

I'll try and take enough pics to add a "step by step guide" to my first post.
 
Ok, forget the pics at the moment. The winch is in place, but the control box doesn't fit. Joshy has a D22, its intercooler isn't occupying the real estate in front of the radiator like mine does. Next ...

I think I'm going to mount it on the chassis mount that the bullbar bolts to. That's fairly close to the motor side of the winch, which is now on the left side of the vehicle. I should still be able to reach in and get to the switch and the remote plug and the box should be out of harm's way - both inquisitive sad little schoolkids with too much time on their hands, and rocks/stones/sticks/insects/hail/politicians.
 
I don't use the clutch handle, hurts my back trying to pull the cable out.
I don't think it pulls to many amps winding out.
 
"I was thinking of running the winch from my auxiliary batteries (I have 2 mounted in the tray) but even with running 00B&S to the winch the voltage drop at full load would have been unacceptable".

How much voltage drop do u get over the length of the car that makes it unacceptable unless the cables underated?

Today 05:35 PM
08KINGCAB I don't use the clutch handle, hurts my back trying to pull the cable out.
I don't think it pulls to many amps winding out.

If anything it should charge your battery? lol::dontknow:
 
I have dual purpose battery with 750CCA as my second batt, put some say 120mm weld flex in and volt drop would be bugger all, it's fusing it at either end that would cause the problems if you wanted to winch off it, same as if you want to start off it.
What I will do is to go straight onto cranking battery and run the motor while winching as others have said.
I have an ARB Shurepower battery solenoid which will automatically backfeed the cranking battery if needed so that isn't a problem, just means I really should re-wire the second battery.
 
Hey Tony,

Might be a little difficult with the winch installed, but to have the clutch in the correct position, you should just be able to undo the allen head bolts holding the gearbox in position, rotate the gearbox housing to the correct position, and insert and tighten the bolts again. There are no secrets to it mate. That will align the clutch lever to where it needs to be for your installation.
 

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