Exhaust mod with DPF

[JPMC]

I have to agree with your comment on the cat causing the problem.
I know a couple of people that have removed their DPF's but not their cats and have had no problems what so ever for thousand of km's so there must be something the cat removes or upsets that the ECU thinks all is fine.

Just a thought but maybe the pressure of the exhaust coming straight from the turbo unrestricted and moving faster than normal, loses just enough of that pressure to trigger the burn off by the time it reaches the second sensor.
I wonder if you swapped the DPF sensors around so the front one was at the back and the back one at the front if that would change anything or maybe try moving the back one right behind the front one so there's only 30mm or so between them.
The other option is find someone that can remap the ECU and turn the DPF function off.(Can be done, has been in UK).

 

[Bosshog]

Thanks JPMC

I'll try all your suggests. Josh (Westy350) has his DPF delete back in and working fine - one of his sensors had come loose in the pipe so it could be that.

Gus

 

[tarmac-]

Hi guys new here.

I too am having trouble with this dam DPF. Light comes on from startup, and is slow as hell.

So today I ran some wires from the back DPF sensor, to the input of the front sensor, and vice versa. Still the light came on. the theory is having the same voltage going to the ecu would show no pressure differential. Btw, the voltages on one wire is 5volts, the other was fluctuating between 19 - 23 volts ( one side was about 1.5 volts higher than the other, forget which was highest..

Btw, this car has been sitting in vanuatu since 2006 with this problem, no body up here can fix it.


Has anybody actually fixed the problem, i can hardly rev the car past 2100rpm .

Who was the person able to reprogram the ECU to remove the whole DPF code, because if we could get that done, then wed have no issue with this system again.

 

[tarmac-]

also did a check on the ecu codes via the check light

it flashes 2 long, 10 short, 10 short, 2 short,, im not sure what code that relates too, anyone have any idea - it may be related to the dpf??

 

[Bosshog]

Hi guys new here.

I too am having trouble with this dam DPF. Light comes on from startup, and is slow as hell.

So today I ran some wires from the back DPF sensor, to the input of the front sensor, and vice versa. Still the light came on. the theory is having the same voltage going to the ecu would show no pressure differential. Btw, the voltages on one wire is 5volts, the other was fluctuating between 19 - 23 volts ( one side was about 1.5 volts higher than the other, forget which was highest..

Btw, this car has been sitting in vanuatu since 2006 with this problem, no body up here can fix it.


Has anybody actually fixed the problem, i can hardly rev the car past 2100rpm .

Who was the person able to reprogram the ECU to remove the whole DPF code, because if we could get that done, then wed have no issue with this system again.

I am thinking the DPF is blocked up solid from lack of use. I'd pull it out and burn the crap out of it and see if that helps.

 

[tweak'e]

Has anybody actually fixed the problem, i can hardly rev the car past 2100rpm .

thats probably what has caused it. need to get get the rpm up and give it a hiding. that may be hard to do on a small island or town.

i would be inclined to get one of the DPF delete pipes imported.
also i would block off the EGR as thats the cause of the soot in the first place.

 

[Leprechaun]

Hi guys new here.

I too am having trouble with this dam DPF. Light comes on from startup, and is slow as hell.

So today I ran some wires from the back DPF sensor, to the input of the front sensor, and vice versa. Still the light came on. the theory is having the same voltage going to the ecu would show no pressure differential. Btw, the voltages on one wire is 5volts, the other was fluctuating between 19 - 23 volts ( one side was about 1.5 volts higher than the other, forget which was highest..

Btw, this car has been sitting in vanuatu since 2006 with this problem, no body up here can fix it.


Has anybody actually fixed the problem, i can hardly rev the car past 2100rpm .

Who was the person able to reprogram the ECU to remove the whole DPF code, because if we could get that done, then wed have no issue with this system again.

Sounds like it's stuck in limp mode, as the other have suggested, give the DPF a clean for starters.

 

[Old.Tony]

Nissan use a Consult-III to conduct a "forced regen" which is one way to get it out of "Limp Mode". But there's a way to be sneaky about it too.

I'm thinking that the forced regen is needed because the ecu remembers that it failed to conduct a normal regen cycle, so let's be tricky - make the ECU forget, then give the car a chance to regen on its own.

I'd get the vehicle up to normal operating temperature, then shut it down, pull the negative battery lead off, turn on the ignition, turn OFF the ignition, put the negative battery lead back on and start the car.

I'd then drive it gently in no higher than second gear, maintaining the rpm at around 2000 or so. That should allow the vehicle to conduct a regen on its own and remove limp mode.

 

[tarmac-]

Have tried quite a few things but with no success, e.g. swapping voltages around from egt sensors, teeing into exhaust pressure lines so ecu sees same signa, still no go.

Thing is , is the DPF light is on even when igntion is just turned to on, would have thought it only would have come on when running. Maybe not.

Another option, this is a european model RHD drive manual.. Would it be possible to use another ECU from say an australian car with no DPF?? (5spd)

THanks guys.

 

[tarmac-]

Or even better, anyone know the guy who can remap the ECUs to remove the code?

 

[JPMC]

Or even better, anyone know the guy who can remap the ECUs to remove the code?

To the best of my knowledge it's only the tuners in the UK that have the ablity to do this.

 

[Bosshog]

Have you thought about replacing the DPF with a straight through pipe? It can be done without the ECU throwing any fault codes. Just make sure you install all the sensors into the replacement pipe in the same place they came out of the DPF.

As a couple of members have found, you must leave the cat in the dump pipe, so if you put an aftermarket dump pipe be sure to get one with a cat in it. Not exactly sure of why, but I suspect the cat affects two things 1. pressure in the replacement pipe and 2. the mix of gases of which the air/fuel sensor is measuring in the replacement pipe.

As always an ECU reset is needed afterwards.

BH

 

[Chip Tuning]

I'd be interested on the method of doing this.
Good luck!

We have the proceedure on the website under "Support"

 

[Old.Tony]

Ahh ok, it's the standard "put the ECU into learning mode".

We've discovered it's much easier to remove battery negative, turn car on (or press brakes) to use all residual power, reconnect battery negative then take it for a gentle drive.

No more fiddling around with a stop watch, pressing the accelerator 10 times or asking the neighbour to hold your weiner while you scratch your left ear.

 

[krunchi]

Ahh ok, it's the standard "put the ECU into learning mode".

We've discovered it's much easier to remove battery negative, turn car on (or press brakes) to use all residual power, reconnect battery negative then take it for a gentle drive.

No more fiddling around with a stop watch, pressing the accelerator 10 times or asking the neighbour to hold your weiner while you scratch your left ear.

I remember the r33 skylines had the same easy reset of just disconnect the battery, is that really true of the Nav too i hope so!

 

[Chip Tuning]

just make sure you have the radio code.

the OEM method also gives you any codes stored ... if any.

but you're right battery disconnect works fine.

 

[westy350]

Tarmac, Mate i just had the same problem as you same fault code you need to get up to speed about 90-110 km i kbnow its hard in limp mode and it will fix it i did about 20km at that speed and it fixed it! goodluck.

 

[waddy]

Hi everyone. New to this forum.
Yeh I have also stuffed up by removing the guts out of the dump pipe and the DPF!! Did the DPF first and it was fine but then got excited and did the dump pipe and now it appears to be trying to clean the DPF and blows a heap of smoke!! It was doing it today so I turned it off and turned it back on and it stopped it smoking.
Anyone had any joy in trying to fix the problem without having to replace the catalytic converter? If not, I will have to buy another one...
Will the aftermarket dump pipes with the catalytic converter fix the problems? Any help would be much appreciated. Cheers, Waddy.

 

[westy350]

Hi everyone. New to this forum.
Yeh I have also stuffed up by removing the guts out of the dump pipe and the DPF!! Did the DPF first and it was fine but then got excited and did the dump pipe and now it appears to be trying to clean the DPF and blows a heap of smoke!! It was doing it today so I turned it off and turned it back on and it stopped it smoking.
Anyone had any joy in trying to fix the problem without having to replace the catalytic converter? If not, I will have to buy another one...
Will the aftermarket dump pipes with the catalytic converter fix the problems? Any help would be much appreciated. Cheers, Waddy.

Hey mate yeah i did the the same removed the lot and had the blowing heaps of smoke problem, so i added at after market CAT and still no luck at the moment i have the DPF back in and have no smoke but i am thinking about putting the factory cat back in and trying that.

 

[Old.Tony]

Someone here had a similar problem and resolved it by the correct placement of the sensors from the DPF. They need to be in the exhaust, or the ECU thinks something is wrong and will try to conduct a regen cycle.