EGR/Butterfly Mod Super Thread

[tweak'e]

changing the hoses around is important.
the egr butterfly reduces airflow into the motor and the egr takes the place of that blocked off air. if you block the egr off without disabling the butterfly your actually lowing the boost going into the motor.

if you want to lower the amount of egr rather than block it right off then disabling the butterfly would be the first thing to do.

 

[4low]

I see, thanks tweak'e!

 

[johnbritto]

changing the hoses around is important.
the egr butterfly reduces airflow into the motor and the egr takes the place of that blocked off air. if you block the egr off without disabling the butterfly your actually lowing the boost going into the motor.

if you want to lower the amount of egr rather than block it right off then disabling the butterfly would be the first thing to do.

these solinoids and hoses i cant seem to find them on mine, although i notice most people talking about it have the 3.0 litre direct injection , mine is the 2.5 cr does it have these hoses etc,,

 

[tweak'e]

these solinoids and hoses i cant seem to find them on mine, although i notice most people talking about it have the 3.0 litre direct injection , mine is the 2.5 cr does it have these hoses etc,,

no it doesn't, different motor. go read the 2.5 yd25 egr threads.

 

[johnbritto]

no it doesn't, different motor. go read the 2.5 yd25 egr threads.

yep thanks tweak'e just found that bit all's good mine goes like a rocket with the blanking plate and snorkel fitted i have even disconected my chip and only plug it in if going on the beach so i can maintain the low down torque in the real fluffy stuf

 

[stockstandard]

Hey guys

2 bolts seem to have found their way into the engine bay never to be seen again. They are from the EGR pipes. I know the bottom bolt (for the pipe that runs around the back) is 14mm and the top (where the blanking pate goes) is 12mm, but i'm not sure if any coarse thread bolt will do the job. Any one have an idea? this is on a ZD30 engine.

Cheers

Christian

 

[Aaronwest]

I had blocked the egr pipes off a while ago. blocked right off at the turbo under the heat shield and blocked at the left side as well where the lil pipe goes to the block, and blocked it at the manifold! over kill i know but its all blocked off now. used those plates from uk so easy, had to make my own on the turbo side as it was triangle shaped. only just now did the vacuum lines re-route trick and disconnected the swirl.it drove a lot better b4 i did the vacuum lines- but just went for lil test drive and it does make a noticeable difference. all up very happy and couldn't of done so convincingly with the help on here so thanks to everyone for there in put and especially those diagrams mad it a breeze. cheers

 

[RobbyM]

i have had blocked the pipes ages ago, now i have just done the vac line swap... do u also leave both the pulgs above the vac lines undone? it seems to be a little more responsive but had now bit of a shake on shut down, like instead or the usual smooth turn off, it now turns off but like it is more rough

 

[tweak'e]

if your getting rough shutdown then you've done something wrong.
make sure the shutoff vac solenoid is not unplugged (green one)

you can unplug the swirl valve one if you wish (brown one)

 

[RobbyM]

i plugged both top ones in and its mint again

 

[nakedape]

I think it was just a piece of colourbond tin, I didnt see him put it in. I'll be getting some 2.5mm stainless plate

Why the need for SS? SS has approx the same melting temp as MS - depending on the grade of SS & carbon content of the MS (about 1500c.) - so it there another reason?

 

[tweak'e]

probably just for corrosion resistance.
i think mine is steel for the exhaust plate and alloy for the inlet side.

 

[nakedape]

^ Thought as much, but its good to get conformation - cheers

 

[Boosted]

Why the need for SS? SS has approx the same melting temp as MS - depending on the grade of SS & carbon content of the MS (about 1500c.) - so it there another reason?

Tweakie is right. It was more for rust protection. The mild steel sheet had rust all over it and I suspect was some of the reason it gave way

 

[jjohn]

I Do have stock again now of S/Steel 1.2 mm blanking plates. Sorry I jumped the gun last week. My manufacturer had problems with the laser cutter at the last minute. He spent nearly 2mill on a new one to be delivered in a couple of months. Ouch!!!

Note: I had a gasket in my egr pipe against the blank plate. I opened it up to look at it only a couple thou ks later. The gasket was wet, soaked from moisture in the exhaust. My conclusion, it will corrode if not good material. Imo

 

[robmacca]

probably just for corrosion resistance.
i think mine is steel for the exhaust plate and alloy for the inlet side.

I thought I remember reading that u can just blank off the egr at the inlet side and that u don't have to blank off at the exhaust / turbo side..... is this still correct?

When inserting the blanking plate, do u also have to re-insert the gasket again?

rob

 

[robmacca]

I Do have stock again now of S/Steel 1.2 mm blanking plates. Sorry I jumped the gun last week. My manufacturer had problems with the laser cutter at the last minute. He spent nearly 2mill on a new one to be delivered in a couple of months. Ouch!!!

Are u selling these ???

 

[jjohn]

I thought I remember reading that u can just blank off the egr at the inlet side and that u don't have to blank off at the exhaust / turbo side..... is this still correct?

When inserting the blanking plate, do u also have to re-insert the gasket again?

rob

Yes thats right, you only need to do one end. A little exhaust gas still travels up the pipe though. Yes you should seal it with a gasket or goo suitable for the job.

 

[Bellshom]

Hey guys,

Got myself a blanking plate and looking to do the job over the next couple days when i find some time.

Just wondering if there are any torque requirments for the bolts once I install the plate/gasket.

 

[jjohn]

Are u selling these ???

Yep. PM me for details.