Dual battery system not working

[Timcyn7]

When I link them, nothing happens. It's not clicking or anything. I have the aux batt on charge overnight, I think it's stuffed too. It read 10v when I got it, so God knows how long it's been flat. But I do know it use to click in and out.
The isolator seems to be working, the lights correspond with the link and auto modes etc, just no clicking of the relay.

 

[Old.Tony]

Remove the battery first thing in the morning regardless of what the charger says. Wait half an hour, then measure the voltage. That will be interesting. A reading taken another half hour later will tell the story of what the battery's condition is.

 

[Timcyn7]

Well after about 16 hours on the charge, the charger said it still wasnt fully charged. I took the charger off and got a reading of 13.8v and it fell down to 12.79v after about 1 minute. An hour later i have a reading of 12.14v.



Should there be in-line fuses between the main batt and isolator and between the isolator and aux battery? Cause i have none lol, so im going to put some in. Should i go 2x 150amp fuses in the above locations? So main batt----150amp fuse------isolator-------150amp fuse----aux battery
Ill probably go with this unit http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/321235793130?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649
?

 

[Old.Tony]

With voltage dropping like that, my guess is the battery has bad sulphation.

The isolator is a fuse in itself so don't bother fusing there. If the cable from the isolator runs under the car and connects directly to the battery in the rear, I'd whack a fuse in the rear. Basic rule of thumb: run a fuse off any source of power.

 

[Timcyn7]

With voltage dropping like that, my guess is the battery has bad sulphation.

The isolator is a fuse in itself so don't bother fusing there. If the cable from the isolator runs under the car and connects directly to the battery in the rear, I'd whack a fuse in the rear. Basic rule of thumb: run a fuse off any source of power.

ok ill hunt for a new battery. 2nd battery is behind air filter, so just throw a fuse between isolator and 2nd battery and dont worry about a fuse between the main battery and isolator?

 

[Old.Tony]

If both batteries are in the engine bay you can forget the fuse altogether, let the isolator do the work. The fuse is important if the cables head under the car and run a risk of being damaged.

 

[Timcyn7]

Ok Tony thanks. Battery been on the charge since Wednesday and still not showing fully charge. So yep it's buggered.
Hard trying to find a battery that fits, I don't have much room. The previous owner had to shorten the + terminal so it didn't hit the bonnet lol.

 

[Old.Tony]

If the +ve terminal is so close to the bonnet, I'd seriously consider a good ABC-plastic cap to go over it in case the bonnet (which can move) flexes into the terminal.

 

[nuckin futs]

going by your pics it looks like the + terminal is on the outside. also looks like theres rub marks on the bonnet sound proofing stuff. id be turning the battery so the + terminal is on the inside giving a bit more clearance on the + terminal. seems like you have plenty of battery lead to play with

 

[happy john]

Don't know if this will help http://www.navara.asia/showthread.php?t=22631