D40 Tonneau 'Rail' Detaching

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user 1279

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Hi Guys,

Just wondering if anyone else has had this same issue ?

For the second time, the rear rail on the tailgate which holds the tonneau cover down and tight has broken loose (rivets falling out).

Seems like the only option will be to drill bigger holes and fix bigger rivets ... but seems like a floored design.

I'm not actually opening and closing the tonneau cover more than once a week either ... so not like it's getting a lot of use.

Nissan fixed it the first time, and I'm sure they are gonna fix it again but given I haven't gone for more than 15,000Km with this failing twice I'm not confident it's going to work for long.....
 
I open and close my soft tonneau every single day. The tonneau itself crapped itself - but Nissan have a 'silent' recall on those so it was replaced a month ago. As for the rail no issue whatsover. I have thought several times that it is only time before it will depart from the tailgate but nope not yet.

I'd ask for a complete new tailgate as all they are going to is drill more holes in it and it will become a sieve allowing more water into the tailgate.

BH
 
I had this problem,if i close the tailgate softly i can rock it back and forth about 5mm,maybe a bit more.If i give it a good shove there is no movement.
I fitted stainless rivets in the original holes for the rail and give the tailgate a good shove,make sure it wont rock and i haven't had the problem again.
 
It's not just rivets that hold the rail in place - the adhesive tape is an integral part of the the design and if the tape is not properly affixed, then the rail will come loose. I would suggest that the tape (which looks like foam tape) takes the majority of the load in fact.

Rivets are not designed for the kind of load that is being placed on them with the tonneau rail - they are being bent backwards, and after all are only through thin sheet steel. If the rivet doesn't fail, the thin sheet will.

When I was removing my tonneau rails to fit the hard cover, it was surprisingly difficult to remove the tape - it was well affixed and appeared to be a decent quality tape.

I would suggest talking to spares about getting some more tape.
 
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The response I had today was that next time I take it in there they will fit new "longer" rivets.

I will ensure that they are fixing tape. It doesn't look like either the first or the second time tape has been fitted !

It certainly doesn't look like a design that is made to last. The older style rivets/hooks drilled around the tub is much longer lasting even though it may not look as 'nice'.
 
t cover

got sick of replaceing and fixed myself with huge stainless rivets, place a couple extra in as well.
IMPORTANT- make sure all the broken rivets are removed from the tail gate as they can get between the skin and structre and actually leave a dent from the inside out.:devil:
 
Bloody gooses, as long as the original rivets were long enough to reach through the sheet, putting longer ones in would be no benefit whatsoever, a bigger diameter is what you would want. But yeah I believe the lack of tape is the main problem.
 
I'm looking to remove mine completely to fit a canopy ( I have the same problem with loose rails ), Ants how did you remove the tape? I'm thinking of trying a heat gun..Any ideas?
 
I'm looking to remove mine completely to fit a canopy ( I have the same problem with loose rails ), Ants how did you remove the tape? I'm thinking of trying a heat gun..Any ideas?

Wouldnt use a heat gun try a razor blade usualy does best to get the sticky stuff off without scratching the paint (if you do it properly) then use warm soapy water to get rid of the residue
 
Wouldnt use a heat gun try a razor blade usualy does best to get the sticky stuff off without scratching the paint (if you do it properly) then use warm soapy water to get rid of the residue

Actually, I found quite the opposite....the metal blade WILL scratch the paint quite easily, however a heat gun (when used carefully) will soften the glue and make it easy to remove.
 
Mine fell off and I just put it back on with screws. Not sure what you mean about the tape.
 
Actually, I found quite the opposite....the metal blade WILL scratch the paint quite easily, however a heat gun (when used carefully) will soften the glue and make it easy to remove.

I removed it today using eucalyptus oil took about a 1.5 hrs thou, but no scratches or paint damage
 
I customised my install as I fitted the cover on top of bed cap rails from the Frontier. The double sided tape works well as long as its a clean surface with no polish in it to start with.
A heat gun will do the trick to soften it and then just rub it with your thumb to roll it off. Painful and time consuming but does work. Prepsol to remove what ever residual glue.
Now if your worried about burning your paint then use a hair drier as its less heat. You only need to warm it up not burn it off.
Using any form of hard tool like a blade etc will mark the paint as its so freakin soft.
The main thing is to take your time.
This is what mine was like till I went with a hard cover
NavaraMods158.jpg

NavaraMods157.jpg
 
I have to remove glue off stainless steel & painted surfaces a fair bit and have found that product calle DESOLVIT works the best. About 8 - 10 bucks at Bunnies.
It is made out of citrus oils and the longer it is left the better it works and it can be used almost anywhere.
Most time an old rag will wipe the glue residue straight off but on stubborn stuff i use a plastic trowel they is normally used to smooth out gyprock cement to scrape it off gently.
As with all stuff it should be tested on a inconspicuous spot to ensure that the paint isnt damaged but I dont reckon you will have any problems.
 
Mine was fixed at the service on Friday. Rather than using rivets they used screws this time.

Aluminum Rivets were never going to work given the pressure on the rail from the cover.

The screws now 'feel' much more sturdy.
 
Mine is going in for 10K service tomorrow and i have already fixed this issue once... will see if they put tape & screws or both..
 

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