D40 problems

[nick nick 12]

I have a nissan navara 2008 d40 when driving it some time cuts out and when restarted will not rev over 2 thousand keep turning off and on it will work. some times will be okay for a day other times a month
Dose any one have any ideas
Also 4x4 drive had stopped engaging

 

[Old.Tony]

It's possible that you have more than one issue with the car.

First up, is there a "Check Engine" light showing at any time? How about an ABS light? Do your brake lights come on? Can you engage cruise control and disengage it with brake and/or clutch?

If there's neither light, it could be the SCV causing the limit to your revs, and it might just be a brake or clutch switch stopping you engaging 4WD. Does it enter 4HI ok, and just won't enter 4LO or is it any 4WD that can't be engaged? This might be a problem with the servo in the transfer case, or maybe even just a relay in the engine bay.

Let's start there.

 

[nick nick 12]

It's possible that you have more than one issue with the car.

First up, is there a "Check Engine" light showing at any time? How about an ABS light? Do your brake lights come on? Can you engage cruise control and disengage it with brake and/or clutch?

If there's neither light, it could be the SCV causing the limit to your revs, and it might just be a brake or clutch switch stopping you engaging 4WD. Does it enter 4HI ok, and just won't enter 4LO or is it any 4WD that can't be engaged? This might be a problem with the servo in the transfer case, or maybe even just a relay in the engine bay.

Let's start there.

 

[nick nick 12]

Brilliant thank you very much there is a abs light on i believe that could be why 4x4 drive is not working and ill have a look into a

It's possible that you have more than one issue with the car.

First up, is there a "Check Engine" light showing at any time? How about an ABS light? Do your brake lights come on? Can you engage cruise control and disengage it with brake and/or clutch?

If there's neither light, it could be the SCV causing the limit to your revs, and it might just be a brake or clutch switch stopping you engaging 4WD. Does it enter 4HI ok, and just won't enter 4LO or is it any 4WD that can't be engaged? This might be a problem with the servo in the transfer case, or maybe even just a relay in the engine bay.

Let's start there.

Brilliant thank you very much the abs light is on i believe this could be the reson for the 4x4 not engaging

Ill try a scv also

 

[Old.Tony]

If the ABS light is on, check your front wheel bearings. Two ways:

* Jack the wheel up and shake the bejeezus out of it. It shouldn't budge except for rotation.
* Take the car for a drive and listen. On a corner where you can maintain a steady pace in both directions, listen for louder sound - if it's louder when taking a left hand corner, your right hand wheel bearing is toast (and vice versa).

 

[Jake777]

I have a nissan navara 2008 d40 when driving it some time cuts out and when restarted will not rev over 2 thousand keep turning off and on it will work. some times will be okay for a day other times a month
Dose any one have any ideas
Also 4x4 drive had stopped engaging

Hi I also had this problem with my 09 navra d40 it would suddenly loose all power and I had to turn the car off and on again about 4-5 times to get it working again. After reading up about it on this forum I found out that it’s a common problem and in short there was to much pressure in the fuel tank and it wasn’t able to breathe properly so the fuel pump could suck enough fuel into the engine. All I did was do up the fuel cap Until it went slightly tight not so it clicked and lock and now I haven’t had an issue since approx 8 months ago

So just make sure the fuel cap is lose and it should fix the problem

 

[Old.Tony]

^ That fix almost exclusively points to a faulty SCV on the fuel pump (easily replaced).

 

[Jake777]

Old.Tony. Is this scv on the fuel pump something that can suddenly stop working at a moment’s notice and render the can not drivable?

 

[Old.Tony]

Old.Tony. Is this scv on the fuel pump something that can suddenly stop working at a moment’s notice and render the can not drivable?

I'd have to say yes. It's not common to see a total failure of that part - it often causes grief, but I don't recall it failing completely. I never say never though - it's a component and it has a function and it could just up and die.

Typically though, with an SCV fault, you'd get what appeared to be a "false limp mode" where you could drive the car but not exceed 80km/h or 2,000rpm (and it would be bloody slow in getting there). I was looking at a guy's ute just south of Newcastle and he showed me the problem, so we tried loosening the fuel cap with success - the problem went away as long as the fuel cap was not on tight. Replacing the SCV fixed it.

 

[Jake777]

I'd have to say yes. It's not common to see a total failure of that part - it often causes grief, but I don't recall it failing completely. I never say never though - it's a component and it has a function and it could just up and die.

Typically though, with an SCV fault, you'd get what appeared to be a "false limp mode" where you could drive the car but not exceed 80km/h or 2,000rpm (and it would be bloody slow in getting there). I was looking at a guy's ute just south of Newcastle and he showed me the problem, so we tried loosening the fuel cap with success - the problem went away as long as the fuel cap was not on tight. Replacing the SCV fixed it.

Okay thanks for the information it means a lot as I said I have never had a problem since I loosened the cap and it’s now been over a year. Would you have any idea on the rough cost to replace the scv included labour? Just so I know what I’m up for!

If you don’t mind you seem to know a fair bit about Navs. I have recently noticed that there is extra pressure in the crank case and my catch can isn’t able to catch it all. When I took off the air intake that connects to the turbo there is a little bit of oil sitting just before it hits the turbine and it’s leaking out where the intake meets the turbo!

The car isn’t blowing any smoke at all but I took the oil cap off and started the engine there is a tiny and I mean tiny amount of smoke/ oil vape coming out but it’s very small I also noticed when I put my hand over the oil cap hole I feel air buffing like puff, puff, puff ect

I’ve been told that the piston rings are probably on the way out and it could last 5000 kms or 150,000kms you can’t really tell. From what I have said dose this sound like the right advice?

The guy also said just drive it until it dies it’s not worth replacing the engine because it could cost approx $10,000 $16,000

I’d appreciate your thoughts!

Thanks in advance
Jake

 

[Old.Tony]

Okay thanks for the information it means a lot as I said I have never had a problem since I loosened the cap and it’s now been over a year. Would you have any idea on the rough cost to replace the scv included labour? Just so I know what I’m up for!

If you don’t mind you seem to know a fair bit about Navs. I have recently noticed that there is extra pressure in the crank case and my catch can isn’t able to catch it all. When I took off the air intake that connects to the turbo there is a little bit of oil sitting just before it hits the turbine and it’s leaking out where the intake meets the turbo!

The car isn’t blowing any smoke at all but I took the oil cap off and started the engine there is a tiny and I mean tiny amount of smoke/ oil vape coming out but it’s very small I also noticed when I put my hand over the oil cap hole I feel air buffing like puff, puff, puff ect

I’ve been told that the piston rings are probably on the way out and it could last 5000 kms or 150,000kms you can’t really tell. From what I have said dose this sound like the right advice?

The guy also said just drive it until it dies it’s not worth replacing the engine because it could cost approx $10,000 $16,000

I’d appreciate your thoughts!

Thanks in advance
Jake

Good grief, don't rebuild the engine based on that.

You've got a diesel engine. They're higher compression engines than petrol (typically about 16:1 compared to a petrol engine's 10:1). Blow-by isfar more prevalent in a diesel. As a result, the crankcase gets warm and pressurised by exhaust gases that leak past the rings. The heat causes a tiny amount of oil to vapourise, and the pressure goes out the PCV (Positive Crankcase Ventilation) which is connected to the air intake just before the turbocharger. This is more about combusting the small amount of oil than anything else (reducing emissions).

I really wouldn't sweat about what you've seen. The catch can is designed to catch some of the oil vapour (not the exhaust gas) - it can't get it all, there's simply not enough cold involved to cause the oil vapour to condense enough to stay as a liquid in the can, so some will get through. It's not a drama. You might consider popping the intercooler off now and again and giving its insides a little clean (run petrol through it a couple of times, it does the trick) but otherwise if your power is still there and the engine is not making odd noises, there's no need to be concerned.

 

[alberttcgeza]

Good grief, don't rebuild the engine based on that.

You've got a diesel engine. They're higher compression engines than petrol (typically about 16:1 compared to a petrol engine's 10:1). Blow-by isfar more prevalent in a diesel. As a result, the crankcase gets warm and pressurised by exhaust gases that leak past the rings. The heat causes a tiny amount of oil to vapourise, and the pressure goes out the PCV (Positive Crankcase Ventilation) which is connected to the air intake just before the turbocharger. This is more about combusting the small amount of oil than anything else (reducing emissions).

I really wouldn't sweat about what you've seen. The catch can is designed to catch some of the oil vapour (not the exhaust gas) - it can't get it all, there's simply not enough cold involved to cause the oil vapour to condense enough to stay as a liquid in the can, so some will get through. It's not a drama. You might consider popping the intercooler off now and again and giving its insides a little clean (run petrol through it a couple of times, it does the trick) but otherwise if your power is still there and the engine is not making odd noises, there's no need to be concerned.

What a response. Beautiful. Thanks.

 

[Jake777]

Good grief, don't rebuild the engine based on that.

You've got a diesel engine. They're higher compression engines than petrol (typically about 16:1 compared to a petrol engine's 10:1). Blow-by isfar more prevalent in a diesel. As a result, the crankcase gets warm and pressurised by exhaust gases that leak past the rings. The heat causes a tiny amount of oil to vapourise, and the pressure goes out the PCV (Positive Crankcase Ventilation) which is connected to the air intake just before the turbocharger. This is more about combusting the small amount of oil than anything else (reducing emissions).

I really wouldn't sweat about what you've seen. The catch can is designed to catch some of the oil vapour (not the exhaust gas) - it can't get it all, there's simply not enough cold involved to cause the oil vapour to condense enough to stay as a liquid in the can, so some will get through. It's not a drama. You might consider popping the intercooler off now and again and giving its insides a little clean (run petrol through it a couple of times, it does the trick) but otherwise if your power is still there and the engine is not making odd noises, there's no need to be concerned.

Thank you for all your advice I really appreciate it more than you know. I will get the intercooler cleaned out as I’ve never had it done before. And look into getting that part replaced in the fuel tank. It’s very hard to get reliable advice these days thank you for taking the time to respond the way you have done