LthLDC
Member
Basically we get this question a lot. I asked it when I joined up and it gets asked repeatedly so I thought I would compile the information (in what is hopefully) to a easy to read and understand explanation of lifting our D40's. I don't know it all so please correct me and we can amend this together to be informative.
I am not getting into shock brands, coil brands, leafs or shackles. There is enough information on packages. Good brands often are reflected in the price, this isnt to say a cheaper version is no good but you get what you pay for at the end of the day.
If you want a no bull dust discussion on what you need for your purpose and budget I'd recommend contacting zordos suspension. Great bloke and has many on the forum that would swear by him as I do. This isn't a plug for John but when I was first looking for a lift, he was the only person who could explain the lack of camber adjustment from the factory, how and why it will effect my lift and what can be done about it. He also had the best prices on a wide range of suspension brands vs retail suspension shops quotes.
Other suspension shops told me they never heard of the issue, some told me there is nothing that can be done about it and others told me what I already knew on how to fix it but at a cost(and massive profit to them). I will say however Pedders did provide good information on the topic, honest pricing and the best customer service out of the shops I contacted. I have since gone back and had work done with them and I am very happy with it but being a franchise this could vary store to store.
Back on topic... I'll start with the suspension options available then we will talk about the positive camber problem and what can be done about it. LCA offset bushes, UCA's and everything in between. Feel free to elaborate better explanations I am bad at explaining things.
So you want a 2" or bigger lift. There are a lot of options and I'll go through the pro's and con's of what is available so when you look at a package you know what your getting into. After installing any type of lift, A wheel alignment is necessary, I'd have one booked for the same day or next available day you have after the lift is complete.
Spacers and Shackles.
Basically these kits include a spacer that is inserted between the coil cap and strut housing to compress the coil spring for more ride height, often sold with extended shackles+rear shocks and sometimes with new leafs + rear shocks, U-bolts + bushes. These can be picked up very cheap but i am positive spacers are illegal to use. A spacer can also be used under the rear leaf pack but will require longer U-Bolts.
These packages come in mixed and matched sorts and are aimed at capturing a budget market. Aside from the illegal strut spacer if this suits your budget and you don't do a lot of off roading maybe some light dirt tracks but just want extra clearance or ride height its an option to explore.
Pro's: Cheap and easy to install
Con's: Spacers are illegal
Retaining factory front shock assembly and leaf pack sometimes
Less suspension travel from the coil overs
Possibility of coilover bucket to upper control arm contact (a metal clang noise when hitting speed bumps or during suspension travel off road)
You may end up with positive camber
Full coil-over + rear suspension upgrade
These kits include front shocks, coils, leafs, rear shocks, shackles, bushes and U-Bolts mostly. Some also include extended brake lines which is a good idea to upgrade during the lift. Most kits do not include an assembled coil over. You may be required to remove your coil hat to complete the front shock assembly and with out a good pair of spring compressors this can be a dangerous task.
If your installing the kit your self I recommend buying a GOOD set of spring compressors designed for 4wd coils. OR if you are able after removing your shocks, take the new shocks and old shocks to a suspension shop and ask them how much to assemble it for you. These kits are the most common upgrades available. If you have a bullbar or are looking to put a bullbar or whinch on HD coils are what you need. Also if you carry a lot on the back looking at a set of HD leafs with a GVM upgrade would be advisable.
Pro's: Improvement on factory suspension (Most of the time)
More suspension travel
Ability to run upto 32" inch tires with minimal or no rubbing (some people run 33"s no worries some have rubbing it all depends on your lift height and if you trim/massage the gaurds)
Reasonably priced
You can make your own package to suit your needs by buying parts individually
Con's: You may end up with positive camber
If you used HD coils or leafs and don't have a load on the front or back the suspension will feel rather harsh
Brake lines may need upgrading if your kit didn't include any
Another option is the Dropped diff kits.
These typically advertise as 5" or more lift kits. They work by adding a dropped bracket for the differential to rest on to correct the CV angles, replacement steering knuckles, and relocated mounting hardware. Most can also be used with a suspension lift as well. These are more expensive and install is slightly more difficult compared to a regular suspension install.
Pro's: Big lift
Ability to run bigger tires/wheels
Will turn heads
Better CV angles
Con's: Expensive
Difficult to install
Does not give more under body clearance vs a suspension lift due to the differential being lowered
Requires engineering (I believe not 100% sure)
Positive camber problems!
TBC Bed time for now
I am not getting into shock brands, coil brands, leafs or shackles. There is enough information on packages. Good brands often are reflected in the price, this isnt to say a cheaper version is no good but you get what you pay for at the end of the day.
If you want a no bull dust discussion on what you need for your purpose and budget I'd recommend contacting zordos suspension. Great bloke and has many on the forum that would swear by him as I do. This isn't a plug for John but when I was first looking for a lift, he was the only person who could explain the lack of camber adjustment from the factory, how and why it will effect my lift and what can be done about it. He also had the best prices on a wide range of suspension brands vs retail suspension shops quotes.
Other suspension shops told me they never heard of the issue, some told me there is nothing that can be done about it and others told me what I already knew on how to fix it but at a cost(and massive profit to them). I will say however Pedders did provide good information on the topic, honest pricing and the best customer service out of the shops I contacted. I have since gone back and had work done with them and I am very happy with it but being a franchise this could vary store to store.
Back on topic... I'll start with the suspension options available then we will talk about the positive camber problem and what can be done about it. LCA offset bushes, UCA's and everything in between. Feel free to elaborate better explanations I am bad at explaining things.
So you want a 2" or bigger lift. There are a lot of options and I'll go through the pro's and con's of what is available so when you look at a package you know what your getting into. After installing any type of lift, A wheel alignment is necessary, I'd have one booked for the same day or next available day you have after the lift is complete.
Spacers and Shackles.
Basically these kits include a spacer that is inserted between the coil cap and strut housing to compress the coil spring for more ride height, often sold with extended shackles+rear shocks and sometimes with new leafs + rear shocks, U-bolts + bushes. These can be picked up very cheap but i am positive spacers are illegal to use. A spacer can also be used under the rear leaf pack but will require longer U-Bolts.
These packages come in mixed and matched sorts and are aimed at capturing a budget market. Aside from the illegal strut spacer if this suits your budget and you don't do a lot of off roading maybe some light dirt tracks but just want extra clearance or ride height its an option to explore.
Pro's: Cheap and easy to install
Con's: Spacers are illegal
Retaining factory front shock assembly and leaf pack sometimes
Less suspension travel from the coil overs
Possibility of coilover bucket to upper control arm contact (a metal clang noise when hitting speed bumps or during suspension travel off road)
You may end up with positive camber
Full coil-over + rear suspension upgrade
These kits include front shocks, coils, leafs, rear shocks, shackles, bushes and U-Bolts mostly. Some also include extended brake lines which is a good idea to upgrade during the lift. Most kits do not include an assembled coil over. You may be required to remove your coil hat to complete the front shock assembly and with out a good pair of spring compressors this can be a dangerous task.
If your installing the kit your self I recommend buying a GOOD set of spring compressors designed for 4wd coils. OR if you are able after removing your shocks, take the new shocks and old shocks to a suspension shop and ask them how much to assemble it for you. These kits are the most common upgrades available. If you have a bullbar or are looking to put a bullbar or whinch on HD coils are what you need. Also if you carry a lot on the back looking at a set of HD leafs with a GVM upgrade would be advisable.
Pro's: Improvement on factory suspension (Most of the time)
More suspension travel
Ability to run upto 32" inch tires with minimal or no rubbing (some people run 33"s no worries some have rubbing it all depends on your lift height and if you trim/massage the gaurds)
Reasonably priced
You can make your own package to suit your needs by buying parts individually
Con's: You may end up with positive camber
If you used HD coils or leafs and don't have a load on the front or back the suspension will feel rather harsh
Brake lines may need upgrading if your kit didn't include any
Another option is the Dropped diff kits.
These typically advertise as 5" or more lift kits. They work by adding a dropped bracket for the differential to rest on to correct the CV angles, replacement steering knuckles, and relocated mounting hardware. Most can also be used with a suspension lift as well. These are more expensive and install is slightly more difficult compared to a regular suspension install.
Pro's: Big lift
Ability to run bigger tires/wheels
Will turn heads
Better CV angles
Con's: Expensive
Difficult to install
Does not give more under body clearance vs a suspension lift due to the differential being lowered
Requires engineering (I believe not 100% sure)
Positive camber problems!
TBC Bed time for now
