d22 intercooler

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Brendan, you wouldn't have any more pics of where the bottom intercooler pipe runs would you?

that i would.
im yet to fab up a new wash bottle.

IMG_0718-1.jpg


IMG_0721.jpg
 
The air heating up again (as you say) is not because of ambient heat which will give less than a 5% increase in intake temp over that kind of pipe length.

Its because the cheap chinese cores dont have enough, or the right kind of turbulators in the charge air passages to do a good job in cooling in the first place.

The cheap bar and plate coolers will give you one thing. Alot of restriction to any heat exchangers behind it. Tube and fin has so much less restriction to flow that it does not impact engine cooling anywhere near as much.

The reason I made the kit the way I did, is because (as you have shown) the charge pipe runs in a very compromising position otherwise.
Yes its more expensive to do it properly, but it works.
Does the tyre rub on it at full lock?
 
and i still hate the top connection.

Just to clear it up then.

Why?

How many cars should I post with this type of intercooler inlet that work?

The hilux below makes 1050hp at the engine. 820hp+ At the wheels through a powerglide auto... with the power still going vertical once it smoked the tyres on the rollers.

Look at the cooler design....

FRFHiluxCoolerTanks.jpg

FRFHiluxEngine5.jpg

TTV8HILUXHP.jpg

FRFHiluxFront.jpg



Want some video Proof?

[YT]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q6ra6Bqxv0I[/YT]
[YT]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SzMdf9wim40[/YT]
[YT]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KhHKLbLWfJw[/YT]
[YT]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2mVHwA1VA0w[/YT]
[YT]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vdZWnsKrAuk[/YT]

I can provide more video's, pictures and dyno testing if you really need me to?
If not, take my word for it. We have tested the limits of this design WELL BEYOND what any navara will EVER encounter.
 
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i had a dual battery and also fitted engine top mount intercoolerand it does miraclesill get some pic and put it here
 
The air heating up again (as you say) is not because of ambient heat which will give less than a 5% increase in intake temp over that kind of pipe length.

Its because the cheap chinese cores dont have enough, or the right kind of turbulators in the charge air passages to do a good job in cooling in the first place.

The cheap bar and plate coolers will give you one thing. Alot of restriction to any heat exchangers behind it. Tube and fin has so much less restriction to flow that it does not impact engine cooling anywhere near as much.

The reason I made the kit the way I did, is because (as you have shown) the charge pipe runs in a very compromising position otherwise.
Yes its more expensive to do it properly, but it works.
Does the tyre rub on it at full lock?

air heating up again is from engine bay temps and i have proven this.

the intercooer works bloody good and wouldnt want it any other way. it cools the air perfectly fine. remeber this isnt a 800hp plus engine.

the water temps have not changed at all and always run cools, even towing my torana ran fine
 
Northside is just proving a point to Tweake.

That there is nothing wrong with the connection.

Good videos mate.
 
Just to clear it up then.

Why?

How many cars should I post with this type of intercooler inlet that work?

The hilux below makes 1050hp at the engine. 820hp+ At the wheels through a powerglide auto... with the power still going vertical once it smoked the tyres on the rollers.

Look at the cooler design....

o quit stroking it, didn't your mother say you will go blind :devil:


FRFHiluxEngine5.jpg


you have this lovely flowing outlet but have this...

D22INT3.jpg


..... horrible inlet. a 90 degree square turn, not even a taper to wider size.

why not put the same work into the inlet ?
 
The air heating up again (as you say) is not because of ambient heat which will give less than a 5% increase in intake temp over that kind of pipe length.

theres been afew who have tested the intake temps and noted the drop with lagged pipes. i think the UK navara forum has a bit on the D40 with similar results.

air heating up again is from engine bay temps and i have proven this.

the intercooer works bloody good and wouldnt want it any other way. it cools the air perfectly fine. remeber this isnt a 800hp plus engine.

the water temps have not changed at all and always run cools, even towing my torana ran fine

sounds about right from what i've heard reported by others.

Northside is just proving a point to Tweake.

That there is nothing wrong with the connection.

Good videos mate.

wrong thread dave.....have another cold one :rock:
 
Tweak'e - Im all ears.

Show me some evidence to back up what your making up regarding the top connection?

Im not saying it is 100% ideal, but it works. I have proven it both on the D22 cooler kit, the 1000hp+ luxy and alot of other cooler kits we have done.

They are my evidence and proof that there is absolutely nothing wrong with that kind of inlet.

As for wrapping the pipes. Yes around 5% is what it will save you in temp as I stated.
Think of it this way. How much of the air inside that pipe is in contact with the inside of the pipe?
Not like an intercooler that has turbulators to ensure alot of contact throughout the charge pipes. It is a small amount by comparison.

I have done it the way its done so there is no chance of pipe damage. The risk of something puncturing the intercooler pipe, In my opinion far outweights the benefits to having a better flowing inlet (maybe 5% more flow).
 
mate if i'm paying all that $$$ i want it 100%. 5% gain is huge for me.
i'll see if i can find a pic of something i would be happy with.

the temps in the intake pipes, are you measuring that at fuell noise on the dyno or at idle where you suffer heat soak ?
 
I did the insulation on mine yesterday.

Cant say I really noticed the difference. Maybe slightly smoother, no power increase..
 
I did the insulation on mine yesterday.

Cant say I really noticed the difference. Maybe slightly smoother, no power increase..

you wont notice it, i herd that you wont notice anypower unless its a 15kw plus gain.
 
mate if i'm paying all that $$$ i want it 100%. 5% gain is huge for me.
i'll see if i can find a pic of something i would be happy with.

the temps in the intake pipes, are you measuring that at fuell noise on the dyno or at idle where you suffer heat soak ?

Do you drive the car at idle suffering heatsoak?
Thats just twisting the tests, to favour one possible outcome.
I test it in real world conditions. Bonnet shut, between 45 and 60kph air speed and from 10% to 100% load.

There simply isnt enough surface area contact to make a considerable difference and thats the science behind it.

And the 5% was a temp drop percentage. 5% drop in temp doesnt equate to a 5% gain in hp.
 
Is it worth doing the insulation to the Pipes? I cant say that my pipes get red hot at all... Exhaust shop for the insulation? Ebay?
 
Do you drive the car at idle suffering heatsoak?

yes ! ! !
you stop idle for a bit and then go to take off and its sluggish as, my temp sensor on the fuel line has gone way up, and its generally sluggish untill your up to speed again and its cooled down.
thats not uncommon even with the D40 guys.

real life driving is stop/start, not just constant speed.
 
Does it really matter.

The man has gone to the effort of making a kit that requires F-all to be modified.

Whether to insulate or not is up to you.
 

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