D21 Build Log
- Thread starter Dion
- Start date
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Ever since I bought my Navara, it's had an issue in 4x4 where it would wind up and then go BANG and release driveline wind-up. I had always suspected a stretched transfer chain, as the noise and feeling is consistent with a stretched chain. Since nothing really ever changed, as in it didn't get any worse or better, I lived with it for years, just slipping it into 4x2 whenever 4x4 wasn't essential offroad.
I even wondered if there were mismatched ratios front to rear in the diffs as there was no pattern to what would cause it to release, as long as you were in 4x4 and on the flat or heading up hill, but counting rotations confirmed the ratios to be 4.8 both front and rear. The most confusing part is that when I had my TD27, the problem existed. Then, when I changed to the QD32, including the packaged transmission and transfer, there was no change in the behaviour, which I would have expected. I just assumed I had terrible luck and had come across a transfer case in identical condition. The sound always seemed to come from the front of the vehicle though.
The problem got worse when I climbed Billy Goat's track in the Vic High Country, stuff that the D21 otherwise had no problem with was suddenly very tough, since as soon as 4x4 was needed, the drive to the front would disengage as soon as the load increased. The bangs and shudders were getting more regular.
The answer finally came when, on the way home from working in the paddock, the front right (unlocked) hub was growling away. It had been the locking hub all along.
I didn't have a 6mm allen key since I never work on motorcycles, so I made the wrong choice between "buy nice or buy twice" and spent $2.50 on a set of allen keys... On the first time trying to take the hub off, the allen key twirled up like a wrought iron gate, and when I chopped the other end of it up to make an adaptor for my socket wrench, that just sheared off inside the fastener. I made a total hash of removing it and trashed the fastener to the point it couldn't be removed using a tool. They're class 12.9 cap screws, so they're bloody tough and not easy to work with.
I bought a set of proper allen keys, and tried welding a bolt head to the fastener to remove the buggered one. That snapped off three times, so I welded a plate of steel to it and whacked the end with a hammer. Three hours of work over two weeks and it finally came loose.
This is just some of the shrapnel I dug out of the hub:
I even wondered if there were mismatched ratios front to rear in the diffs as there was no pattern to what would cause it to release, as long as you were in 4x4 and on the flat or heading up hill, but counting rotations confirmed the ratios to be 4.8 both front and rear. The most confusing part is that when I had my TD27, the problem existed. Then, when I changed to the QD32, including the packaged transmission and transfer, there was no change in the behaviour, which I would have expected. I just assumed I had terrible luck and had come across a transfer case in identical condition. The sound always seemed to come from the front of the vehicle though.
The problem got worse when I climbed Billy Goat's track in the Vic High Country, stuff that the D21 otherwise had no problem with was suddenly very tough, since as soon as 4x4 was needed, the drive to the front would disengage as soon as the load increased. The bangs and shudders were getting more regular.
The answer finally came when, on the way home from working in the paddock, the front right (unlocked) hub was growling away. It had been the locking hub all along.
I didn't have a 6mm allen key since I never work on motorcycles, so I made the wrong choice between "buy nice or buy twice" and spent $2.50 on a set of allen keys... On the first time trying to take the hub off, the allen key twirled up like a wrought iron gate, and when I chopped the other end of it up to make an adaptor for my socket wrench, that just sheared off inside the fastener. I made a total hash of removing it and trashed the fastener to the point it couldn't be removed using a tool. They're class 12.9 cap screws, so they're bloody tough and not easy to work with.
I bought a set of proper allen keys, and tried welding a bolt head to the fastener to remove the buggered one. That snapped off three times, so I welded a plate of steel to it and whacked the end with a hammer. Three hours of work over two weeks and it finally came loose.
This is just some of the shrapnel I dug out of the hub:
It's a much better problem to fix than a stretched transfer chain; bloody easy to change, and only $200 worth of bits rather than $800.
You can see where the clutch teeth have been jumping over each other. I'm having trouble choosing between genuine Nissan, eBay unbranded, AVM, Warn, Mile Marker and Superwinch for a replacement set.
I also fitted new glow plugs and my new battery, and it starts great.
You can see where the clutch teeth have been jumping over each other. I'm having trouble choosing between genuine Nissan, eBay unbranded, AVM, Warn, Mile Marker and Superwinch for a replacement set.
I also fitted new glow plugs and my new battery, and it starts great.
Leprechaun
Member
- Joined
- Apr 3, 2009
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Great stuff Dion, Glad you worked it out, pulling the transfer would have being a bitch, although by the look of things the hub wasn't much easier. I would wear a big jacket and head down to pick-a-part, otherwise I reckon anything from Ebay should do the job, as your not turning big rubber.
PS. Bhondus & Unbrako make the best allen keys.
PS. Bhondus & Unbrako make the best allen keys.
K
KraftyPg
Guest
Got to agree with that, my set of Unbrako's have been around nearly as long as I have. The old man first got them when he worked at Holden in the 60's.
Yeah I agree. Just waiting for Nizzbits to reply to me with a price on the genuine stuff, sometimes the price is okay, failing that eBay will do fine.
I also agree about the allen keys. What I've got now are SCA crap, bought to do the hubs and now reserved for the special task of being lost in the race team workshop. One day maybe I'll blow two months pay on some Unbrako and Stahwille stuff to keep under lock and key at home.
K
KraftyPg
Guest
Just do it Dion, you don't really need to eat for a few months when play toys are more important.
Great stuff you have done to the d21 here. Lost of work
Have you got the pathfinder rear end in it yet.
Going on what you say you could use a terrano chassis to make a swb navara as long as you used 2 inch body lift blocks ?? am I right
Have you got the pathfinder rear end in it yet.
Going on what you say you could use a terrano chassis to make a swb navara as long as you used 2 inch body lift blocks ?? am I right
Coil rear isn't in the car yet, but I'm close to having all the bits I need to put the turbo in, once that's done the coil rear is next.
Yeah that's right, you'd have to build a custom tray since the length and mount brackets won't suit any Navara tub, although a King Cab tub comes close. I don't know what other surprises you'd find, but the key components are compatible.
Yeah that's right, you'd have to build a custom tray since the length and mount brackets won't suit any Navara tub, although a King Cab tub comes close. I don't know what other surprises you'd find, but the key components are compatible.
Thanks for that.
I just pulled the turbo off my terrano and fitted a larger one, Just got to fiish the dump pipe and away I go.
A swb navara would look awesome. Jacked up high.
Hey I noticed you said the pathfinder mounts are 50mm lower but seem to sit flush with the top of the chassis as you have pictured on your navara chassis
could there be a difference in some pathinder/ terranos
I just pulled the turbo off my terrano and fitted a larger one, Just got to fiish the dump pipe and away I go.
A swb navara would look awesome. Jacked up high.
Hey I noticed you said the pathfinder mounts are 50mm lower but seem to sit flush with the top of the chassis as you have pictured on your navara chassis
could there be a difference in some pathinder/ terranos
Yeah no worries. Have a look at the Nissan section of Pirate4x4, there's all manner of hardcore Pathfinders and Hardbodies, since they don't get the Patrol.
The only mounts I have pictured in my buildlog are 4x2 mounts, which are the same height as Pathfinder mounts. The 4x4 ones are higher. When I did my dual cab swap I used a 4x2 cab so the 4x2 rear cab mounts were what I had freely available, so I used them. I have a set of 4x4 rear mounts from a wreckers waiting to go on with my coil rear end, so I don't have to use spacers with 4x2 mounts any more.
Bearindabush
Member
What goes on Dion??????
D
Dave
Guest
I messaged him the other day, thought he would of been on by now.
dentist
Member
piping the water to air.
Hello everyone !
I really do need some information about this water to air cooler since I also using it but I cant find any info about piping and so...
after hours of searching this place is only find for me.
I wonder if someone can help me with numbers on photo, which is which !?
I do need a diagram for it.
cheers!
Hossein
[email protected]
Hello everyone !
I really do need some information about this water to air cooler since I also using it but I cant find any info about piping and so...
after hours of searching this place is only find for me.
I wonder if someone can help me with numbers on photo, which is which !?
I do need a diagram for it.
cheers!
Hossein
[email protected]
