Boost solenoid gone?

[antiskeptic]

Hi guys

Chasing an opinion or opinions on my boost solenoid which I believe has gone to heaven. Nav lost power overnight and is blowing black smoke under heavy load. I've lost all power and only good in a straight line on a flat surface atm. I've taken some obd2 readings I've attached that definitely makes me think boost solenoid is gone. Max psi I achieved was 3.12. nav is EGR deleted, 2010 Thai nav, 325k on the clock
Also whilst replacing the solenoid if that's the issue, I'll do vacuum lines but curious what size are they as I'll upgrade to a coloured silicon line for a little bling. Considering throwing the tilix system in also at the same time, but can someone point out pros and cons of this system also.

Thanks heaps for any advice, it's appreciated

 

[Old.Tony]

I use the Tillix valve. It's okay - does the job - and doesn't fail, but it also is a very simple device (which makes it more reliable, I guess!) so it doesn't anticipate boost needs. I think the ECU will start bring boost on earlier due to throttle commanded rather than exhaust pressure (the difference really is quite minimal).

The hose is 3mm inside diameter stuff, Supercheap Auto sell a pack of 3m in blue silicon - I can't remember how much it is, although I did buy some for my own car.

Test it: take the hose that comes across the top of the motor and connect it directly to the turbocharger's actuator. Drive the car and see if the boost has returned - you should try and come off the throttle gently, because if you simply drop the throttle to stop accelerating, the turbo will still be spooling hard and pumping lots of air but the engine won't be using it, so intake pressure will rise and you'll either get turbo chatter or pop a hose off.

If you don't get lots of boost (and assuming the vac hose is ok), chances are the turbo itself needs attention. You can wipe a finger inside the air hose heading towards the intercooler and see if there's any metallic flecks in the oil, which can only indicate a turbocharger that's wearing out (silver flecks = impeller rubbing on housing, gold flecks = bearing disintegrating). Try spinning the turbo and see if it's smooth (it should be a little reluctant to spin, but should spin smoothly). The shaft shouldn't wobble.

 

[antiskeptic]

Thanks heaps Tony. I'll try this and keep updating

 

[Rhino1174]

I’m running a Dawes valve setup almost same as Tilix just another brand pretty much and it’s simple and reliable i not had any more issues since and get lot better fuel economy and power delivery go checkout 4WD Systems – Gear To Goannawhere they explain how they work compared to ecu controlled if your looking for info

 

[antiskeptic]

Thanks for that info rhino1174, I'll look at thier info.

Old tony I tried the hose swap trick with no luck, boost wasn't there still. I did notice the lines are quite fraid at the ends, couldn't see any breaks but I'll replace them anyway as they are definitely on their way out and will eliminate that one.
I'll check the inter cooler hose tomorrow Arvo when I'm free, fingers crossed it's not the turbo but always a way to gain upgrades

 

[bringthenav]

I just had that same "well similar" issue & fixed it with Diesel Turbo cleaner 500ml Nulon brand to 40L fuel, and a new solenoid.

My solenoid was previously ancient & i also have over 300k however i dropped hard plastic snapped vac hose connector accidentally into my turbo & couldn't find it.

It made the impeller be stuck & i had to free it up with a small screwdriver for 30minutes & rev the **** out of it with the over the top of the motor vacuum plugged directly to the actuator, which in my case Gave me full boost.

I reckon i killed the old solenoid driving around revving the sh*t out of it getting similar max of 3psi like you.

Eventually i got it up to about 5-8psi once even about 10psi, totally revving it but in lower gears, it got better during the cleaner working & as the turbo was able to be forced to be spun the more i drove it around.
This was so not fun!

The turbo actuator arm was not bobbing up and down at all lile it was supposed to while i was trouble shooting. I think i mostly cleared the plastic crap n it probably turned to dust or gum, my Navs fixed.

But
The turbo even with the new bc solenoid took about 500km of drives every day to get back to a healthy 15-17psi, and i used to see 21-22 and it hauled better. Way better.
I reckon i am still operating at partly engine power, and my economy was excellent before my issue i caused then went to hell in a handbasket while running with no/low boost, or full actuated feathering turbo on high boost (i got a boost guage) to avoid over boosting over 20-25 or so,
I blew so much brown gray smoke from the turbo cleaner!!

Careful to have the turbo cleaner on u while its going thru cleaning in case of being pulled over, it just smogs the whole highway that cleaner stuff & uses so much extra diesel it costed me a small fortune.

Now i have it cleaned, smokes mostly all gone and burned away,
I hit 17psi sometimes, i got 85-90 percent of my boost back & new vac lines and a metal cold air intake vacuum connector instead of stock plastic so it can't be snapped ever again leaning across the bay to tighten up hot pipe clamps to avoid false mini random limp modes with no codes i was getting because i had 'even very very slightly' leaky boost hotpipe / intercooler etc clamps.

I got a solenoid on eBay $25 cheapest one, fixed immediately, seems solid, people here say thats fine to use.. i am thinking of buying 2 or different ones plus dawes/tilix so i can see which bcs works better if any differences in performance, or if i fit the tillix to get back my extra at least faster spool by the boost coming on bit slightly earlier, whuch for me in turn might even help clean out my poor clogged turbo which i drove last night & found after a few days of only short shopping drives & sitting alot it felt kind of cloggy again.

Look into videos/forum posts about sticky or stuck actuator arms or failed actuators.

You may have that mate if your new bcs doesnt solve it. Hopefully it isn't a stuffed turbo impeller or other exhaust part, but if your making 3psi like i was i'd be looking at if theres sticky atuck or failed actuator or arm, whole lot cheaper than a turbo replacement.

If your lucky its just one the 3 vacuum hoses cracked.

Certainly check if the turbo spins freely while running with yr cold air pipe undone so u can see and get at it. See if the actuator arm is bobbing up n down like it should. See if the actuator arm goes all the way up immediately when u plug in the over engine vac to actuator directly.

Replace all vac hoses if old, even especially that over engine one coming from the d/s of motor under the engine cover.
Could be just that!
Eliminate the variables!

Hope u sort it out.
such an unfun problem to have.

 

[dattorob]

assume this is the YD engine'd Nav?

 

[antiskeptic]

Thanks bringthenav for all that info, appreciated.

I'm starting with replacing all vac lines and boost solenoid this week, just waiting on the old postie.
I'll definitely run a lot of that diesel cleaner through the tank, luckily I am in the country so the smoke issue won't be a worry, probably nothing behind me out here.

Once this issue is sorted out I'll bang a tilix system in along with the boost gauge sitting on the workshop bench currently

I'm double checking the turbo along with replacing those parts with fingers crossed.

 

[antiskeptic]

It was a simple vacuum line replacement and away she went. Split hose somewhere obviously but I couldn't see or find it. I now have a spare boost solenoid also just incase lol.

Once again thanks for all the info, it's been a pleasure learning

 

[Rhino1174]

It was a simple vacuum line replacement and away she went. Split hose somewhere obviously but I couldn't see or find it. I now have a spare boost solenoid also just incase lol.

Once again thanks for all the info, it's been a pleasure learning

Glad you got it sorted it’s always the smallest things we can’t see that give us the biggest headaches