Blown up engine 2014 d40 thai built
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OldManBeard
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Based on that invoice he did bugger all and had no valid reason to conclude that the engine is stuffed or that the DPF can't be salvaged. The turbo may or may not need replacement but I seriously doubt this bloke knows how to tell the difference. Quite simply, he had no real idea of what he was doing and ripped you off, rather than admitting he wasn't the right mechanic for the job.
Now find yourself a mechanic that knows Navaras, or at least knows turbo diesels, and get a second opinion.
Now find yourself a mechanic that knows Navaras, or at least knows turbo diesels, and get a second opinion.
user 10312
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Yep, rip off.
Going by that sounds like it's quite a viable repair. I'm even a little sus on the cracked exhaust manifold as a cracked ERG pipe will sound just the same.
Perhaps do some research and consider a DPF delete. It may well work out less expensive than a DPF burn out or replacement. Even deleting the EGR pipe will save money, just needs a blank at each end but you will need a particular mechanic to do such work.
This a great opportunity to learn as much as you can about engines. It is knowledge that will not just benefit you now but into the future.
BTW does it run/start?
Going by that sounds like it's quite a viable repair. I'm even a little sus on the cracked exhaust manifold as a cracked ERG pipe will sound just the same.
Perhaps do some research and consider a DPF delete. It may well work out less expensive than a DPF burn out or replacement. Even deleting the EGR pipe will save money, just needs a blank at each end but you will need a particular mechanic to do such work.
This a great opportunity to learn as much as you can about engines. It is knowledge that will not just benefit you now but into the future.
BTW does it run/start?
OldManBeard
Member
Best advice ever. Even if you never intend to maintain the machine yourself, the knowledge could make the difference between being stuck out the back of nowhere someday or being able to get it to at least limp back to a town. Incidentally, knowledge gained on one machine, although not necessarily directly transferable to another, makes it far easier to learn any other.
One time, long before mobile phones, I had a rocker nut come completely undone on an old Holden. At the time I only had a 12 inch shifter, a claw hammer and my electrician's pliers in the car. For some stupid reason that I can't remember, I had taken my toolbox out the night before. Because I knew the engine well I also knew what had happened. I was able to tackle the job with the shifter and pliers and get the car mobile again and drive 250km to home. Not having the knowledge would have meant a walk of at least 50km to the nearest town. I reckon you'll find plenty of others around with similar tales.
From that read, it's salvageable. There's a number of steps that you could take now.
Look at the exhaust manifold (cold engine is best). If it's cracked, it's going to have black sooty emissions from the crack, there's no escaping this - so cracks are bloody obvious. They might be hiding under a heat shield, but they'll be there, An inspection camera (and a little practice with it so you know what things look like through it) might help under shields, but more common exhaust leaks are the EGR tube or the exhaust - turbocharger interface gasket wearing thin. Blanking the EGR (especially at both ends) removes that as a problem, but the 2014 model may have had an EGR flow sensor, so finding an EGR tube on a wreck is probably the best way out of this (unless you know someone that can MIG the pipe up for you).
If the turbocharger is truly worn then that's a bummer, you could risk trying a cheapish rebuild kit or you can go for a genuine Honeywell Garrett replacement (not from Nissan). A second opinion might be good for this given how much you're going to outlay on a turbo plus fitting. Expect around $1500 for the turbo and around $400 to fit it.
The DPF is another issue altogether. The best solution is to pull the ******* out, knock the guts out of it (be a little careful, it's a ceramic lattice that will eat normal drill bits but it can be removed) then contact @auggie on this forum (start a conversation, address it to @auggie) and get his replacement sensors. You will not regret this purchase - I've done it, DPF problems gone within minutes. Unfortunately when I bought his sensors for my car they were something like $600, but they really do solve the problem and I just turned to my wife and said "money well spent".
So, turbo, EGR, DPF sensors and a little (try to make it satisfying, give it a whack with a hammer a few times) persuasive destruction of the DPF's innards and you should have a nicely functioning Navara.
Look at the exhaust manifold (cold engine is best). If it's cracked, it's going to have black sooty emissions from the crack, there's no escaping this - so cracks are bloody obvious. They might be hiding under a heat shield, but they'll be there, An inspection camera (and a little practice with it so you know what things look like through it) might help under shields, but more common exhaust leaks are the EGR tube or the exhaust - turbocharger interface gasket wearing thin. Blanking the EGR (especially at both ends) removes that as a problem, but the 2014 model may have had an EGR flow sensor, so finding an EGR tube on a wreck is probably the best way out of this (unless you know someone that can MIG the pipe up for you).
If the turbocharger is truly worn then that's a bummer, you could risk trying a cheapish rebuild kit or you can go for a genuine Honeywell Garrett replacement (not from Nissan). A second opinion might be good for this given how much you're going to outlay on a turbo plus fitting. Expect around $1500 for the turbo and around $400 to fit it.
The DPF is another issue altogether. The best solution is to pull the ******* out, knock the guts out of it (be a little careful, it's a ceramic lattice that will eat normal drill bits but it can be removed) then contact @auggie on this forum (start a conversation, address it to @auggie) and get his replacement sensors. You will not regret this purchase - I've done it, DPF problems gone within minutes. Unfortunately when I bought his sensors for my car they were something like $600, but they really do solve the problem and I just turned to my wife and said "money well spent".
So, turbo, EGR, DPF sensors and a little (try to make it satisfying, give it a whack with a hammer a few times) persuasive destruction of the DPF's innards and you should have a nicely functioning Navara.
OldManBeard
Member
When I hollowed out mine I first went to the local Bunnings and bought the longest masonry bit they had, which was 450mm long and 12mm diameter. The ceramic doesn't stand a chance against a bit like that. If you can get a longer bit that would make the job easier. I also found the I had absolutely no problems using the original sensors.
In my case the old sensors were still on the fritz, and we'd driven 3400km (Rockhampton and back) to make sure. But sure, give them a try, save some coin!
Good work Guys, sounds like you are on the right track [as always] Gee, $800 dollars and they never checked the brakes.
GunMentalGrey
Member
One of the most important aspects of learning about this stuff and never touching anything is being able to tell when the mechanic (or dealership desk staff) is telling porkie pies or just doesn’t have a clue.
pol327
Member
Perhaps all you "Home Mechanics' should read the invoice. To say that bill is 'a 'rip off' is absolute rubbish and suggest to me that none of you has any idea about running a business.
The bill is itemized properly, he has given a specific break down of what has been done, where the money has been spent and $100 per hour in my opinion is cheap. A four (4) hour labour charge for the work is more than reasonable No where on the bill does it suggest the engine 'is stuffed' or should be replaced. Given the condition of the oil it does not paint a good picture of the vehicles service history.
The mechanic has itemized what he has found and the suggested repairs to be done. Some of the 'experts mechanics' here should seriously think about what they post. The invoice posted has the business name on it and what you say amounts to 'slander and defamation'.
Check the brakes ???? What the 'f....' for. The vehicle was presented with an engine fault.
If you want to do a DPF delete which I might add is ILLEGAL, then buy a delete pipe. Knocking the center out DPF if found out has the same end result ... you will get fined and that is why no reputable mechanical shop would do that.
Get a second opinion and do the necessary suggested repairs. I would definitely use this mechanic as looking at the invoice he appears honest to me. Keep in mind, the suggested repairs may not necessarily fix the vehicles issues as NONE OF US ARE THERE TO LOOK AT IT.
The bill is itemized properly, he has given a specific break down of what has been done, where the money has been spent and $100 per hour in my opinion is cheap. A four (4) hour labour charge for the work is more than reasonable No where on the bill does it suggest the engine 'is stuffed' or should be replaced. Given the condition of the oil it does not paint a good picture of the vehicles service history.
The mechanic has itemized what he has found and the suggested repairs to be done. Some of the 'experts mechanics' here should seriously think about what they post. The invoice posted has the business name on it and what you say amounts to 'slander and defamation'.
Check the brakes ???? What the 'f....' for. The vehicle was presented with an engine fault.
If you want to do a DPF delete which I might add is ILLEGAL, then buy a delete pipe. Knocking the center out DPF if found out has the same end result ... you will get fined and that is why no reputable mechanical shop would do that.
Get a second opinion and do the necessary suggested repairs. I would definitely use this mechanic as looking at the invoice he appears honest to me. Keep in mind, the suggested repairs may not necessarily fix the vehicles issues as NONE OF US ARE THERE TO LOOK AT IT.
OldManBeard
Member
And wouldn't that have been handy in this instance?
OldManBeard
Member
I agree about not having looked at the brakes and what you say about the DPF. In fact, I replaced mine with a new one once I had solved my serious smoking issue, which had been causing the car to go into limp mode due to overheating of the exhaust due to a blocked DPF. I disagree with suggesting a delete pipe in preference to a hollowed-out DPF, as that will make it obvious to anyone taking even the briefest glance underneath. That would be like taking the car in for testing and telling them what you've done, whereas a hollowed-out DPF may well go undetected.
As for the rest...
I do indeed know about running a business, having owned and run my own in the past. It wasn't a mechanical workshop but that's irrelevant, as all the same fundamentals apply.
On the face of it, the bill may look honest when broken down because the price is fair for what was done. I called it a rip-off because of what was not done. He did an extremely poor job of diagnosing the engine, having only flushed and changed the oil and looked at and exhaust. As you say, the oil being so thick does indicate very little, if any, maintenance was carried out previously but it also suggests there isn't a lot of diesel in it, which suggests the engine is probably not too badly worn. I also wonder if he bothered to warm the engine before draining the oil, which for us amateurs is generally considered standard practice.
The invoice suggests that he may have checked for error codes but the failure to mention it suggest he didn't find any. I'm going to go further and say that, based on what he checked and found and based on his own invoice, that engine is quite possibly still good and just needs some proper TLC. Hence the best course is still to get a second opinion, rather than take his advice and scrap the engine (I'm prepared to believe the OP that this is what he was told to do, even though it's not on the invoice).
I have serious doubts that he could make that assessment about the turbo. Unless it's totally and obviously stuffed it needs to be removed for a proper diagnosis and that would have entailed more labour than what's on the invoice. I don't think he's aware that the turbo uses oil-sling, rather than regular bearings, so the shaft will always have some slop in it. I was told by the place where I purchased my new turbo that more than one person, including professional mechanics, has replaced a turbo because they thought the old one had worn bearings or shaft, only to find the new one has just as much play in it, only to take it back for a refund and refit the original.
In regards to 'slander and defamation', if he wants to tackle me for defamation I'll happily take him on but slander applies only to verbal comments, so doesn't apply here.
[email protected]
Member
Four Lethal Diesel Engine Oil Contaminants
https://www.machinerylubrication.com › Read › diesel-...
Severe dilution (excess of two percent) is associated with leakage, fuel injector problems ... Diesel fuel dilution in cold operating conditions can cause waxing. ... and oxidative thickening of the motor oil, causing deposits and mild starvation.
https://www.machinerylubrication.com › Read › diesel-...
Severe dilution (excess of two percent) is associated with leakage, fuel injector problems ... Diesel fuel dilution in cold operating conditions can cause waxing. ... and oxidative thickening of the motor oil, causing deposits and mild starvation.
Sorry POL but i saw .'BRAKES & Mechanical' at the top of the page and 'Specializing in BRAKES' at the bottom [spelling mistake in there if you look hard] and thought he took his car to get the BRAKES done as well. I have been running a business for over 35 years and you are right, I am still learning. Today I learnt something new, which is a good thing. Thanks POL
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