Milkman
Member
Updating my alternator (D22 ZD30), shouild I get the Clutch pulley or non clutch pulley, going from the standard 60a to 100a $495
Another alternator question
- Thread starter Milkman
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kevvyp
Member
I fitted the 90amp fixed pulley from a patrol when mine died, no problems at all.
the patrol ones are clutch pulley unless its replace with a different pulley.
my understanding is the clutch is there for noise reductions and belt life.
my understanding is the clutch is there for noise reductions and belt life.
shaggy
Member
G'Day Fella's
When I upgraded my alternator to a 100 amp I got one with a clutch pulley
When I upgraded my alternator to a 100 amp I got one with a clutch pulley
Milkman
Member
Thanks guys for all the infomation, I'll stick with the cluch pulley
yes looking at 100A or 110A think there around $500, have seen them on Ebay cheaper but just not sure what you get when buying off there at times
yes looking at 100A or 110A think there around $500, have seen them on Ebay cheaper but just not sure what you get when buying off there at times
Milkman
Member
Ok so I finally got an alternator 115 amp $395, looking at it over the weekend and reading up on a few things, do I have to remove the radiator to get to the tensioner pulley? Seems like a bigger job than I expected, not difficult just time wise, any info would be appreciated
Gday mate
You should be able to pull off the bottom part of the shroud and get a crack at the head of the tensioner pulley I cart remember what size it is but I know it is tight and a good single hex socket and a flex headed 1/2 inch ratchet is my weapon of choice and a diagram or photo of how the belt go is a good idea.
When you take the weight of the belt flick it off at the balencer pulley and the belt will be loose then change out your alternator and set your belt over all pulleys but the balencer pulley and pull the tensioner in and the belt should be able to slide back on.
Good attention to how the belt gose is a good idea because it will nearly fit another way to (past experience)
Hope that can help you
Jack
You should be able to pull off the bottom part of the shroud and get a crack at the head of the tensioner pulley I cart remember what size it is but I know it is tight and a good single hex socket and a flex headed 1/2 inch ratchet is my weapon of choice and a diagram or photo of how the belt go is a good idea.
When you take the weight of the belt flick it off at the balencer pulley and the belt will be loose then change out your alternator and set your belt over all pulleys but the balencer pulley and pull the tensioner in and the belt should be able to slide back on.
Good attention to how the belt gose is a good idea because it will nearly fit another way to (past experience)
Hope that can help you
Jack
Milkman
Member
Jack, thanks for your help, cant believe something so simple seems to be such a pain in the a..
Cheers Milkman
It can be too, mine seemed all right tight, like I had my favorite cat 1/2inch ratchet on it and braced both feet on the tire to pull it down and got it. When I did the other navara here it was all seized and it was a horrible job.
See how you go you might need to upgrade the charge wire. I put a 100 on and with every thing going and charging a rack of battery's has finally stuffed it I watch on the dash voltmeter the volts at battery are dropping a back yet at alternator are still at 14.2 wire has now got about .5v of a volt dropage between fuse box post and alternator post a little bit to much
Jack
Milkman
Member
Hey Jack,
I also installed an alternator voltage booster fuse increase est .5v $50 ebay, was sitting around 13.8v before, now 14.1 did spike up to 14.5 but dropped back to 14.1, I had the tensioner pulley changed last year so lets hope it's free enough to be relatively easy job, installing saturday
Thanks for the heads up on the charge wire
I also installed an alternator voltage booster fuse increase est .5v $50 ebay, was sitting around 13.8v before, now 14.1 did spike up to 14.5 but dropped back to 14.1, I had the tensioner pulley changed last year so lets hope it's free enough to be relatively easy job, installing saturday
Thanks for the heads up on the charge wire
Malicious
Member
Holy crap I know what I'm gonna start selling now instead of temp sensors, that a huge markup for $1 worth of parts
Milkman
Member
Yes you could be right, but the fuse will cut out if it's over loaded and reset after the issue has been fixed, so it's not like once the fuse blows you have to buy another one.....lol they were $30
Milkman
Member
115amp alternator fitted, everything went really well, started car, all good, but now the battery light on the dash stays on? any ideas
Malicious
Member
Well have looked into it more and think I'll start making them resettable and sell on eBay for about $25 should be able to fund some mods and donate more to the forum
bods
Member
are you getting charge out of it or not?
Milkman
Member
well i 'assume' so, new alternator, the turbo time has a battery volt reading showing that it is giving full charge
bods
Member
did it plug straight in to the factory wiring? the only reason i'm asking is it seems like the "sense" wire is either not connected properly, or connected to the wrong wire. that's what makes the light come on as it has battery voltage on one side and when the alternator is working puts 12v to the other side, making the light go out. if it is staying on then it has earth on the alternator side by the sounds of it... that would be the first thing i'd look at anyway
SG1
Member
My charging light/battery light on dash stays on occasionally but always goes out when rpm gets above 1500, I think it's to do with the instrument cluster on D22's and is a known issue. There is a couple of threads on this in the forum that might be worth checking out and covers this exact problem.
I would just check what your charge rate is putting in at the battery end but I suspect it's most likely fine and possibly another small issue.
I would just check what your charge rate is putting in at the battery end but I suspect it's most likely fine and possibly another small issue.
Milkman
Member
Yes read through other threads couldnt find any solution, most are about light going out after increasing rpm, my light just stays on, plug only goes in one way, so tested battery it is charging up to 14.1v, unplugged the “sense” wire no charge to battery dropped to 11.2, plugged back in battery is charging, I have installed alternator boost diode to increase by 0.5, this was in before new alternator
Went for a drive out on the hwy running all lights (6x spotlight) all went fine, battery still charging, car starts fine.
Went for a drive out on the hwy running all lights (6x spotlight) all went fine, battery still charging, car starts fine.
Milkman
Member
Good old process of elimination, checked battery all fine and charging, but I noticed that second battery wasn’t being changed the redarc battery isolator was flashing three times, which is the isolator error out to protect it’s self and not allowing charge through to second battery, so the only other thing I changed was the alternator fuse boost diode to increase by 0.5 this worked fine with old alternator but not with the new one, changed the fuse back to the standard 10amp and battery light went out, redarc battery isolator worked again, ran all 6x spotlight volts still at 14.1, sweet the 115amp alternator works
