2012 STX 550 eating oil

[Lucasslater1]

Hi all,

I'm new to the forum and have a question about my STX 550 eating oil.

I bought the beast with 92000km on it from a dealer.
Dealer said it had had a full service before I bought it.
5000km later the low oil light came on.
I checked the oil and sure enough it was on the very bottom of the dipstick. so I bought some Castrol fully synthetic and put in 2.5l.
At 100000km the light came on again so took it for a service (as you do)
Everything all good mechanic said.
2500km later the low oil light comes on again so add another 2.5l.

Now I'm at 105000km and the low oil light is on again and the oil is at the bottom of the dipstick.

She blows a bit of smoke when dumped but no power loss I can feel.
seems to still be running really nice.

love the 550 but would like to know why I'm going through so much oil.

I've never had this problem in any other car.

note: there is no oil leaks that I can see.
under the car is pretty clean and no puddles.

If any of you excellent People in Navara land can help it would greatly appreciate.

thanks in advance

Lucas

 

[Old.Tony]

I wonder where it's going? It is quite possible that it's going through the combustion process, which means it's coming out the PCV (or past the piston rings, or both).

If the oil is coming out of the PCV, you could catch it with a catch can (people often add these to their car) and even return it to the sump, but a greater question of why you have so much oil at this point should be answered.

If you don't have a catch can available, you could examine the inside of the hose between the turbocharger and intercooler. This WILL have some oil in it (mine does), but it gathers on the walls of this hose slowly. Wipe it clean, drive the car like you normally do, check this hose again. It shouldn't have a large amount of oil on the walls (there might be a tiny amount). You could also inspect the oil under a very bright light, this will give you an indication of the condition of the turbocharger (any metallic glittering in the oil found inside the hose is an indication of a worn turbo, but we don't suspect this, it's just an anecdote that you can use to check the turbo).

If there's very little oil in the charge air hose, the only other place it can be going is out the bearing behind the turbine of the turbocharger. This is located in the exhaust stream, and if oil is leaking out at this point, it's difficult to detect because the turbine itself is in the hottest part of the exhaust stream and the oil would be mostly combusted by the exhaust (after all, the turbocharger is before the catalytic converter). While this is not detectable without removing the turbo, it's likely that if the leak is due to failed bearings then your turbo's performance would be compromised. It could also be a failed oil seal, but that would require removal of the turbo and examination.

 

[Horatius]

Have you noticed any oil in the coolant (faulty oil cooler)?

 

[Old.Tony]

^ Is the engine oil cooler on the V9X connected to the coolant system? I know the auto trans is. The coolant overflow bottle should have spilled several times if there's been 5L of oil added (and lost).

Unless the trans cooler is also leaking and the whole mess is ending up in the gearbox!

 

[Horatius]

Don't know anything about that specific model Old.Tony, only assuming it will have some sort of oil cooler (which could be wrong). If it isn't something like this or possibly turbo (which should be obvious?) and it isn't leaking, then that leaves rings, valve guides, that type of thing.

 

[landmannnn]

The V9x does have an oil cooler, but it is separate with its own little radiator.

This engine does use a fair amount of oil.

Like many modern engines nowadays they are designed with a fair amount of ring clearance to reduce friction and emissions. (Older engines like the 2.5, dating from the 1990's, don't use a drop).

If l no leaks, then the oil is probably being drawn into the combustion chamber and burnt. This could be caused by a number of things such as a sticky piston ring, valve seal or high oil pressure. Not too concerning as long as you add oil when the car tells you to.

Strangely, mine went through a phase of using oil a couple of years ago.

I assume you are using 5w30 fully synthetic oil?

 

[Lucasslater1]

I wonder where it's going? It is quite possible that it's going through the combustion process, which means it's coming out the PCV (or past the piston rings, or both).

If the oil is coming out of the PCV, you could catch it with a catch can (people often add these to their car) and even return it to the sump, but a greater question of why you have so much oil at this point should be answered.

If you don't have a catch can available, you could examine the inside of the hose between the turbocharger and intercooler. This WILL have some oil in it (mine does), but it gathers on the walls of this hose slowly. Wipe it clean, drive the car like you normally do, check this hose again. It shouldn't have a large amount of oil on the walls (there might be a tiny amount). You could also inspect the oil under a very bright light, this will give you an indication of the condition of the turbocharger (any metallic glittering in the oil found inside the hose is an indication of a worn turbo, but we don't suspect this, it's just an anecdote that you can use to check the turbo).

If there's very little oil in the charge air hose, the only other place it can be going is out the bearing behind the turbine of the turbocharger. This is located in the exhaust stream, and if oil is leaking out at this point, it's difficult to detect because the turbine itself is in the hottest part of the exhaust stream and the oil would be mostly combusted by the exhaust (after all, the turbocharger is before the catalytic converter). While this is not detectable without removing the turbo, it's likely that if the leak is due to failed bearings then your turbo's performance would be compromised. It could also be a failed oil seal, but that would require removal of the turbo and examination.

Thanks old.tony
I have a feeling it is being burnt and sent out the exhaust.
I will do the hose check and see how that is.
I don't think it is the turbo. There is definitely no loss of power and she spools up nicely. Xx
I'm going to get a soot clean and put a provent catch can on and see if that makes a difference.

The V9x does have an oil cooler, but it is separate with its own little radiator.

This engine does use a fair amount of oil.

Like many modern engines nowadays they are designed with a fair amount of ring clearance to reduce friction and emissions. (Older engines like the 2.5, dating from the 1990's, don't use a drop).

If l no leaks, then the oil is probably being drawn into the combustion chamber and burnt. This could be caused by a number of things such as a sticky piston ring, valve seal or high oil pressure. Not too concerning as long as you add oil when the car tells you to.

Strangely, mine went through a phase of using oil a couple of years ago.

I assume you are using 5w30 fully synthetic oil?

Thanks Landmannnn,

I use penrite c4 5w30.

Everything I've found says put a catch can on and have it dump back into the sump. It supposedly helps a lot.

 

[Been a while]

Catch cans help monitor oil loss from "blow by", not advisable to drain Catch cans back to the sump, they gather condensation and pass that onto the sump... Every day!

Most likely sticky oil rings! Try a CRC flush, that'll free things up
I'm pretty sure the site buys in bulk for its members, grab 5lts and give it a go mate...

All "jokes" aside, try the LiquidMoly diesel eng flush, it may have been slightly "cooked" for some reason and she has jammed up oil rings/ glazed bores...
Check to see if she's had a new radiator or any plumbing, she may have boiled at one stage...
They're a pretty high powered motor aren't they? Maybe someone's driven her like she was stolen???? Car yards huh
Check for coolant stains in all the places they didn't detail, like underneath the Ute..

Strange for low k's eh, my pennies on boiled and baked rings, oil rings on glazed bores is always ugly.. Get a compression test done!
And find a spanner thrower you can trust, any mechanic you've taken that Ute too that hasn't given you at least 3 possibilities needs to be fired...

How have they explained to you why a car of those k's is drinking that much oil? Please don't tell me you're taking it back to that Same dealer each time! If so, film the twat next time! Post and shame I say!
I have a 330'k d22 that uses a bit now, but yours, somting wery Wong there China! Try a flush... $20, cheaper than an hour at nissan or a car yard mech eh

 

[ericcs]

if you've only just bought the car, did it not come with some sort of warranty?

 

[Lucasslater1]

Catch cans help monitor oil loss from "blow by", not advisable to drain Catch cans back to the sump, they gather condensation and pass that onto the sump... Every day!

Most likely sticky oil rings! Try a CRC flush, that'll free things up
I'm pretty sure the site buys in bulk for its members, grab 5lts and give it a go mate...

All "jokes" aside, try the LiquidMoly diesel eng flush, it may have been slightly "cooked" for some reason and she has jammed up oil rings/ glazed bores...
Check to see if she's had a new radiator or any plumbing, she may have boiled at one stage...
They're a pretty high powered motor aren't they? Maybe someone's driven her like she was stolen???? Car yards huh
Check for coolant stains in all the places they didn't detail, like underneath the Ute..

Strange for low k's eh, my pennies on boiled and baked rings, oil rings on glazed bores is always ugly.. Get a compression test done!
And find a spanner thrower you can trust, any mechanic you've taken that Ute too that hasn't given you at least 3 possibilities needs to be fired...

How have they explained to you why a car of those k's is drinking that much oil? Please don't tell me you're taking it back to that Same dealer each time! If so, film the twat next time! Post and shame I say!
I have a 330'k d22 that uses a bit now, but yours, somting wery Wong there China! Try a flush... $20, cheaper than an hour at nissan or a car yard mech eh

Thanks been a while.
I will look into all of those things.
Haven't taken it to back to the dealer was going to query here then hit them with possibles so the don't stuff me around.
I just keep topping it up at the moment and she seems to be running fine.
It is under warranty so hopefully if it is a big fix they fix it.

 

[Lucasslater1]

if you've only just bought the car, did it not come with some sort of warranty?

Hi ericcs,

I do have a warranty on the car just getting some ideas of what it could be so I'm armed when I go in.

I hate dealer mechanics

 

[Been a while]

Thanks been a while.
I will look into all of those things.
Haven't taken it to back to the dealer was going to query here then hit them with possibles so the don't stuff me around.
I just keep topping it up at the moment and she seems to be running fine.
It is under warranty so hopefully if it is a big fix they fix it.

Stick your head underneath and with one of those real bright cre lights have a good look- in all the "nooks and crannies" eh They would have tried to remove the trace!
Look at ALL nuts and bolts and see if any have been touched by tools, you'll know if they have been off and on..

Hasn't been in a slight wreck, beaters may have missed a cracked core, or a weakened damaged core that popped latter!?
Do you have any beater mates? Get them to have a look for panel r&r or repair!

Feel for ya man, all the best...

 

[Horatius]

This engine does use a fair amount of oil.

Yeah sounds that way, especially this particular one lol.

I know modern engines are designed for thinner oil and different clearances, but that still seems a lot of oil to be using. The early current model Landcruisers also had a problem with using enough oil for the warning light to display between services, but they had a lot of people taking them back to the dealers and seem to have fixed the problem after that.

This one sounds like it's going to need somewhere between 5- 7.5 litres of oil in top ups between services (assuming 10k kms intervals). Struggling with the idea that this would be normal in any way, but could obviously be wrong about that. At any rate it's cured the feeling of ever needing to own one. lol.

If it's burning this much oil at this amount of kms it's not sounding a recipe for longevity, and especially if it's under some sort of arrangement where the dealer is obligated to repair problems, it might be worth a compression test to begin with.

 

[Been a while]

Yeah sounds that way, especially this particular one lol.

I know modern engines are designed for thinner oil and different clearances, but that still seems a lot of oil to be using. The early current model Landcruisers also had a problem with using enough oil for the warning light to display between services, but they had a lot of people taking them back to the dealers and seem to have fixed the problem after that.

This one sounds like it's going to need somewhere between 5- 7.5 litres of oil in top ups between services (assuming 10k kms intervals). Struggling with the idea that this would be normal in any way, but could obviously be wrong about that. At any rate it's cured the feeling of ever needing to own one. lol.

If it's burning this much oil at this amount of kms it's not sounding a recipe for longevity, and especially if it's under some sort of arrangement where the dealer is obligated to repair problems, it might be worth a compression test to begin with.

Lol, it's good to be cured eh... yeah comp test first! Maybe fit a catch can to measure the waste also, but if she's puffing and using oil it could be more than guilds and seals.. maybe shitty guild seals from manufacturers, it happens... But if no other utes with the same k's is showing the same issues it may be rings and bore from a bake job... comp test it.

Check the coolant tanks for cracks also, beaters and FITTERS miss that little stuff all the time... If she has had a bingle on the nose it may have cracks in the tanks and pipes... mine had a cracked coolant RETURN line from the tank and it eventually boiled her!
Boiled a few times before I noticed too.. It would take the coolant release pressure but the crack wouldn't allow the coolant to be sucked back into the radiator emptying the radiator to dangerous levels.. You'd think the new ones would have all the bells and alarms to prevent this...

I just fitted the Engine Guard to measure block temps, that has alarms you can set...

All the best with it man... it's a shite huh

 

[ericcs]

Hi ericcs,

I do have a warranty on the car just getting some ideas of what it could be so I'm armed when I go in.

I hate dealer mechanics

probably best to let them know sooner rather than later. they will want to do there own tests!

 

[Lucasslater1]

Hi all it's booked in with Nissan on Tuesday.
I'll keep you updated on what they come back with

 

[[email protected]]

on my np300 i used an elbow facing directlty upwards and taken hose over the head to catch can, which is on opposite side of engine sitting as high as possible. the oil is dropping back into the engine , and all the light vapours are going to catch can .there is zero oil going into the drain pipe , the filter is wet from vapours and will need cleaning. my ute has only done 90thks , the oil droping back is clean with no visual vapours , at some later stage when there is signs of exesive vapor i will turn the elbow and start collecting in drain pipe . i do my own service and always use synthetic 10-30 grade oil. change it with filter every 12 th kls

 

[Lucasslater1]

Update:
It went into Nissan and they are now doing an oil usage test.
Take it back in 1000km to see how much oil it has used

 

[Adhaul]

Just some inside info (or - so I'm told by a dealer service manager) - when the 550 is delivered it has "straight running in " engine oil in it, and also my engine machine shop also advised the same, it is required by the Nissan manufacturer to change it to synthetic at 10,000 km to achieve the efficiency ratings??? If the engine is treated with too much kindness it polishes the cylinder bores and it uses oil, and if it's changed to synthetic too early, a similar result. I drive mine fairly hard compared to most and it has always used oil, the catch can needs to be emptied every 5000 km.

 

[Lucasslater1]

Just some inside info (or - so I'm told by a dealer service manager) - when the 550 is delivered it has "straight running in " engine oil in it, and also my engine machine shop also advised the same, it is required by the Nissan manufacturer to change it to synthetic at 10,000 km to achieve the efficiency ratings??? If the engine is treated with too much kindness it polishes the cylinder bores and it uses oil, and if it's changed to synthetic too early, a similar result. I drive mine fairly hard compared to most and it has always used oil, the catch can needs to be emptied every 5000 km.

That's some very good info.
Thanks adhaul.