Matt76
Member
Thanks heaps for the help guys, I have sent this thread a bit off topic but I think there is plenty of good info in here for people anyway.
Yeah I am going to put a Ctek on my christmas list I think. They won't overcharge a fully sealed AGM will they?
I may have missed something here, but are we saying that D22's come with a dual battery setup standard? I pick my D22 ST-R up tomorrow, however I have never looked at one up close nor test driven one. If it has a stock dual battery setup stock, that would be superb
Yes, but that's not the difference I mean. I have a redarc smart isolator, if I disconnect the secondary battery the relay will still close and supply power from the main battery if the main bettery's voltage is above the cutout voltage. ie. it will be live and arc out.
You are saying you disconnected the secondary battery and the cable from the main battery was no longer live. This tells me it may just be an isolator that recognises there is no battery and opens the circuit, purely for safety and to stop it arcing.
Clear as mud?
As for charging setup, I was thinking of installing a small inverter powered from the main battery. This would be switched via a relay, with the relay coil powered by the ignition, with a 30 second on-delay timer (so as to not drain the crank battery before it gets a chance to start the motor and get a bit of charge in it). This small inverter would power a battery charger, the load side of which would be connected to the deep cycle battery. From the deep cycle battery I would run auxillary LED lights (in the future canopy) and a large 240v inverter to power my 240v camping equipment.
I'm an electrician, but don't have a great deal of experience with batteries other than theory and mucking around with cars. In theory this system should work, the deep cycle battery is ONLY charged via the battery charger and is completely isolated from the crank battery when ignition is off. If anyone more learned can see any issues with this setup, feel free to let me know
That's precisely how I've got the battery in my caravan set up now, and how I'll be doing the deep cycles in the tub.
Why? Because:
1) Isolating them means no chance of draining the cranking battery
2) Alternator will only charge auto batteries to about 70-75% - and since you don't want to use more than 50% of the battery's capacity (for longevity), it means you've only got 20% of capacity available if you charge from the alternator, and 50% if you charge in the method you've described.
Yes there are losses involved, but none that make any difference in the long run.
Tony you say an alternator will only charge a battery to 70-75%, but on my setup, (redarc smart solenoid)I always have 12.55V available from my deep cycle battery, which to my understanding is fully charged.
I have being using this setup (*KISS* principle) for many years, its never let me down, and I've never had any problems with shortened battery life or fast discharge rates.
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