07 D40 Timing Chain Replacement.

[Seano84]

Hi all I'm new to the forum and am about to replace the timing chains and sprockets on my D40 2.5 diesel. I have done a search and read through many posts but couldn't find the answers needed. I already have the kit just working out a couple things. Firstly i have read that a tool is needed to hold the balance shaft sprocket in place and was wondering if it is really required or if there was an alternative that can be used. Secondly i have been reading conflicting reports that the sump needs to come off some people are saying it has to and other people are saying it can be left on. Any help or tips would be greatly appreciated.

Cheers Sean

 

[doc]

I imagine if a tool is needed to hold the balance shaft sproket in place, it would be a simple pin that could be fashioned quickly from general workshop supplies.

D40 - I wasn't aware of a need to remove the sump.

 

[Seano84]

So can any one tell me if the tool is definetly required and if the sump has to come off. I'm getting conflicting advice.

 

[Old.Tony]

For the secondary (upper) timing chain only, no.

For the primary (lower) timing chain - which if you're going to do one, you may as well do both - the answer in the manual is yes.

Removal and installation for the primary timing chain is covered from p224 of EM.PDF and reads like this:

Removal and Installation

CAUTION:
After removing timing chain, do not turn crankshaft and camshaft separately, or valves will strike piston heads.

When installing camshafts, chain tensioners, oil seals or other sliding parts, lubricate contacting surfaces with new engine oil.

REMOVAL
1. Remove power steering oil pump and power steering oil pump bracket. Refer to PS-24, "POWER STEERING OIL PUMP" .
2. Remove idler pulleys.
3. Remove rocker cover. Refer to EM-200, "ROCKER COVER" .
4. Remove oil pan (upper and lower). Refer to EM-180, "OIL PAN AND OIL STRAINER" .
5. Remove fuel injector. Refer to EM-188, "INJECTION TUBE AND FUEL INJECTOR" .
6. Remove secondary timing chain and associated parts. Refer to EM-217, "SECONDARY TIMING CHAIN".
7. When removing rear chain case, remove camshaft sprockets. Refer to EM-203, "CAMSHAFT" .
8. Remove crankshaft pulley.
a. Hold crankshaft pulley with the pulley holder (commercial service tool).
b. Loosen crankshaft pulley fixing bolt and pull out the bolt approximately 10 mm (0.39 in).

It then continues on the next page with more diagrams. I do recommend getting hold of it if you're interested. You can find the link in this thread.

 

[lookskyward1]

have a look at this post, there is an excellent 'how to'. http://www.nissan-navara.net/viewtopic.php?f=15&t=46729&hilit=timing+chain

There is no need to take the main alloy sump off, the small sump should be taken off to make sure everything is clean before reassembly.

As for the tool needed for the bottom sprocket on the balancer shaft. I managed with a piece of thick copper wire. The sprocket in question is split into three sections that need to be locked together. It is important that the sprocket is locked or you will need a whole new balancer shaft. A small hole is in the face of the sprocket that the wire can be pushed through.

If you look at the sprocket in this picture you can see the wire pushed through. Good luck and take your time to get it right.

 

[BlueD40]

I've got a 07 Navara STX with 190000km on the clock. I bought it secondhand 3 yrs ago and a year after that, the engine was rattling bad. A Nissan dealership pulled everything apart and said that the timing chains had stretched and the idlers and pulleys were worn. From memory, repairs were quoted to be over $7000, however, Nissan NZ covered two thirds of that.
Now 2 years later, I'm having problems starting the wagon as it won't idle once started and if it drops below 500rpm it stalls and then takes ages of turning over to get started again. The other issue is that it holds 1st gear in the auto to long, so when it changes to 2nd, it kicks badly. The Nissan dealer had it for nearly a week and replaced the throttle control box/sensor as it apparently had oil in it. I got the wagon back and all was good for a day before more hard starting and transmission kick. They have had the wagon back for nearly another week and told me that the swapped out the throttle with a new one, however that didn't solve the issues and now they think the timing chain is loose and slack when cold... I'm unsure as to whether it is a timing chain issue as it isn't rattley like it was 2 years ago..
Any ideas???? The timing chains were only done 2 years ago and less than 70000 kms ago.....

 

[Old.Tony]

I'd pull the SCV and clean it. It's on the fuel pump. Nissan won't clean it, they'll replace it for $240 (over here).

 

[Seano84]

Well finally did the timing chains and wasn't to bad of a job at all. Did it all without removing the sump or injectors. For anyone mechanically minded I would recommend doing it yr self, with the help of the threads mentioned above. Was a great bit of info and much appreciated.

 

[BlueD40]

Thanks for that Old Tony, I'm picking the wagon up today from Nissan. They have sent diagnostic results to Nissan NZ for their opinion. What is the SCV and is it easy to pull and clean?

 

[Old.Tony]

The SCV is the Suction Control Valve. It's on the fuel pump, it's not large at all and easy enough to get to and clean.

 

[humey]

I'm thinking of doing my timing chains too as I have 107000 on the clock and I makes a rattling noise on start up when cold, gets less when warm but it's still there and matches engine rpm. Does anyone know how much for the parts?

 

[Vigilante]

I'm thinking of doing my timing chains too as I have 107000 on the clock and I makes a rattling noise on start up when cold, gets less when warm but it's still there and matches engine rpm. Does anyone know how much for the parts?

Perhaps send the blokes at www.yd25.com.au an email and find out

 

[Old.Tony]

I'm thinking of doing my timing chains too as I have 107000 on the clock and I makes a rattling noise on start up when cold, gets less when warm but it's still there and matches engine rpm. Does anyone know how much for the parts?

My suggestion is to follow Vigilante's advice! Ask for Paul, he won't steer you wrong.

 

[Nomisbear]

have a look at this post, there is an excellent 'how to'. http://www.nissan-navara.net/viewtopic.php?f=15&t=46729&hilit=timing+chain

There is no need to take the main alloy sump off, the small sump should be taken off to make sure everything is clean before reassembly.

As for the tool needed for the bottom sprocket on the balancer shaft. I managed with a piece of thick copper wire. The sprocket in question is split into three sections that need to be locked together. It is important that the sprocket is locked or you will need a whole new balancer shaft. A small hole is in the face of the sprocket that the wire can be pushed through.

If you look at the sprocket in this picture you can see the wire pushed through. Good luck and take your time to get it right.

its hard to tell from the description given in the first link you put up, or thr photos, is it just a simple case of slipping a pin or wire or whatever, into the hole on the gear? Or does the gear have to lign up with the internal mechanism before you can put the pin in?

 

[lookskyward1]

When the cog on the crankshaft is still in place the holes in the balance shaft cog line up fine.

It's just a case of putting something like heavy copper wire right through to hold the balance cog together for when you remove the crankshaft cog.

Good luck, it will become more obvious as you get to it.

 

[andywerder]

I've just been quoted $2500 - $3000 to replace the whole kit(both chains, gears n guides) in my 2007 Navara stx.
Apparently to get to the bottom chain they have to pull the engine out?
I paid $950 for the kit.
Thoughts please?

 

[user 49350]

I did my D40 recently with YD25's dual row conversion kit. About $1550 for the kit not including refundable special tool hire. I obviously replaced top an bottom everything and could comfortably do it all wih engine in the car but with radiator removed.

 

[andywerder]

Cheers, yeah its the first I've heard of anyone saying the engine needs to com out to get to the bottom chain?
Thanks for the info.

 

[Katsback12]

Well finally did the timing chains and wasn't to bad of a job at all. Did it all without removing the sump or injectors. For anyone mechanically minded I would recommend doing it yr self, with the help of the threads mentioned above. Was a great bit of info and much appreciated.

Hi Seano84
I see you are from Werribee. I brought a D40 5 weeks ago and it needs the chain done. Could you recommend someone competent to do it in the Ballarat area ? I’m presuming you are a mechanic ?
I’ve asked a few but they won’t touch it cause it’s a Navara.